Carbon Fiber Rims for Everyday Use??
 

OK I am starting to think about a new set of wheels for 2011. Price range is 500-1000.

I an NOT racing but do lots of "fast recreational" club rides that can be fairly competitive.

Anyway, I have been under the impression that "everyday" (ie. not race day) wheels should be aluminum rimmed, but lately it looks like a lot of my clubmates (and BF members) are using carbon rimmed wheels for everyday use/training use.

So although I have been limiting my search to aluminum hoops, I am wondering if it is wise to include medium-section carbon fiber rims on the list.

If it matters, I weigh "only" 145 pounds. I ride about 6000 miles/year and hope to keep the new wheels for several (3-5) years if possible.

And the current short list includes Soul3.0SL, easton EA90SL, Williams 30, Dura-Ace Wh7850 (I know it has carbon but really an aluminum rim and a carbon fairing), HED Ardennes and of course PSIMET.

So should the list include some carbon hoops from zipp/reynolds/etc??

You'd be hard pressed to find a full carbon wheelset for your price range, maybe a reynolds stryke/assault. I'd check out ebay for sure. Riding full carbon everyday is fine, just know that in the wet braking will be significantly diminished

Unless it has an aluminum braking surface, then braking in wet conditions still sucks but it's a little better. In the range consider the SRAM S series wheels. I've used them and enjoyed them. A little heavy but they get the job done.

I have a lot of carbon rimmed wheels. I don't use them for "everyday use". I do sometimes use them in non-races, but very rarely.

edit: on my rollers I use my 404s because I like the low resistance of the tubulars.

you can look at planet x. they sell their wheels for very little.

I have a set of Shimano 7850 C24s and a set of Shimano 7850 SLs (TL), and love both of them. The carbon wheels are used everyday, rain or shine. I acually use the alloy SLs for cyclocross if that helps in concidering the durability of Shimano wheels. Both these wheelsets roll forever and if you shop around, you can find NEW 7850 carbon hoops for under $1000.
Good luck

I know several people who ride Mavic Cosmic Carbones as everyday wheels without a hitch. I snagged a new set off of ebay for $800 and plan to do the same. They aren't the lightest, but for me it's a great trade-off for the durability.

Granted I'm 135lbs and ride in Georgia where the majority of the roads are pretty smooth so I don't worry too much.

Bicycle Wheel Warehouse has a 30mm rim depth set - Blackset Race 10 - with 24f/28r: $350 w/DT Comps, $500 w/Sapim CX-Rays. Should make for a solid everyday set. (Rob at Psimet can no doubt build a comparable set.)

When your list of builders is complete, you could always see which source is closest to you, in case you can't get the wheels serviced locally. I'd ask for a copy of the service instructions. (White industires has PDF's for servicing their hubs on their site.)

Holy crap, that Blackset Race 10 is the best wheelset deal I've ever seen. $350 for ~1450 grams? Neuvation for example is $300 for 1620, all the others are around that as well.

I wonder how durable they are. Do they go out of true easily?

I actually have this wheelset and put close to 1,000 miles on them and haven't needed to be trued. Shaved 1.8 pounds off the bike compared to the heavy Bontrager wheels that came on my Trek. Best wheelset for the money IMO.

Can't be worse than ACE-18 from Alexrims LOL.

The OP could always ask them who supplies the hubs and rims. (Formula is a frequently used supplier for hubs.) The 24/28 spoke count should be plenty for a light rider.

I like to know who will service things. And I tend to be sceptical of posted weights, when they're under 1500g. But they're worth considering - as is a comparable build from Psimet.

The HED Ardennes are aluminum rimmed wheels, but I think you know that.

The HED "carbon" clinchers (really alum rims with fairings) are relatively heavy. I have a Jet6 front Jet9 rear and I don't ride them that much - maybe 15-20 times since I bought them. I find them pretty heavy after the Reynolds I used to ride. I ride my Bastognes (similar to Ardennes - the cheaper low spoke count wheelset from HED) most of the time, and the Stinger6 tubulars in races. The whole reason I went to HED wheels is I wanted to race the wider Stinger6s.

I used Reynolds DV46 clinchers for training for a solid year plus, and now a teammate is on them. I flew with them at least once that I remember (I use a soft case and the wheels end up the "cushion" for one side of the bike). I think the Assaults? are similar to the DV46s. You can pick up Reynolds wheels on the cheap (well, okay, $1000 or so) if you keep an eye out. I weighed 180-200 when I rode the DV46s. I managed to break one spoke in the tubulars (front wheel, 30 min into a 80? minute race) and one spoke in the clinchers (rear wheel, on a group ride). I finished both rides - even managed to place in the race (and it has a regular 45 mph descent). I did the 2+ hour group ride after breaking the spoke on roll out. With the wheels I had that meant I did the race on a 15 spoke front wheel and the group ride on a 19 spoke rear wheel. The wheels were fine once I fixed them (I relaced them using round spokes, rounds spokes are my preference on wheels, and if I break a spoke in a wheel I relace the whole thing because I figure the others aren't far behind).

When I used the DV46s (clinchers in training, tubulars in races) I used yellow Swiss Stop pads after a ride or two in the rain with regular pads. The yellows were fine. I wasn't keen on riding in the rain but I'm not keen on it in general, even on alum rimmed wheels.

cdr

Where do you ride in Georgia?

Thanks for the feedback. Yes of course I know the ardennes are aluminum.

Anyway, I suppose the question I am asking is almost more "philosophical" than anything, whether it makes sense to stick with aluminum (maybe with a carbon fairing a la dura-ace or cosmic carbone), or to go for full carbon fiber for a non-racer planning to spend up to 1K for wheels that will be used everyday.

I should have also added that my riding is in chester county, PA....lots of rolling hills but no "serious" climbs.

Any and all comments are welcomed.

I have seen some fairly nice looking carbon wheels in that range, including reynolds etc....so the question is not CAN I get carbon but SHOULD I? As above at this point the question almost seems more philosophical. I am a bit concerned about braking but 90% of my riding is NOT done in the rain.

This is quite possibly the most repeated phrase on this forum: Carbon is stronger than people (cyclists) think.

However, realize that an impact that could bend/dent an aluminum rim, can crack a carbon rim.

Zipp 303s, great for everyday use.

If you want them and you can get them, there's no reason not to buy them. Maybe just go on a couple more rides and see if you continue to want them.

Get carbon (full carbon rims). Aero and lightweight. Can't beat that. It'll be fun riding those wheels.

Mostly Jackson county/Athens area. I try to get to the mountains around Helen when my schedule allows it though.

Williams 38 carbon clinchers. $999, including skewers, Swisstop yellow pads. 1462 grams/set, ceramic bearings. Hard to beat combo of relatively light weight and aero. And they are relatively bulletproof. My first set of Williams 38's threw a freehub mechanism pawl, but that can happen to any wheel, and it's a cheap fix.

OK thanks for the replies so far.

Sounds like I should include carbon rims on the list of possibilities, although somehow I feel like I don't deserve them. Still looking at aluminum ones too, of course.

OK PCAD, would you pick the williams over the Dura-ace?!? You have plenty of miles on both.

edit: and they cost about the same, too.