Newbie's First Post: Replacement Group for My 2010 Felt Z6?
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Newbie's First Post: Replacement Group for My 2010 Felt Z6?
Greetings; hope I posted this in the right spot..
I recently purchased a 2010 Felt Z6, as the road bike bug has bitten, hard. I love the frame and geometry, but am already feeling the limits of the components - crank and derailleurs, in particular. It's got an FSA compact (50/34) Omega crank, Sora FD and Tiagra RD (9 speed.) Is there a group I can purchase that easily replaces those components? If not, piece-by-piece, what can easily replace them? I'm thinking Shimano 105, Ultegra or equivalent. Would like to spend less than $400. Thank you.
I recently purchased a 2010 Felt Z6, as the road bike bug has bitten, hard. I love the frame and geometry, but am already feeling the limits of the components - crank and derailleurs, in particular. It's got an FSA compact (50/34) Omega crank, Sora FD and Tiagra RD (9 speed.) Is there a group I can purchase that easily replaces those components? If not, piece-by-piece, what can easily replace them? I'm thinking Shimano 105, Ultegra or equivalent. Would like to spend less than $400. Thank you.
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I'm not sure what aspects would be limiting you... what makes you think there is some limit imposed by components?
Shifting quality/speed? may just need to clean or properly tune cable tension, the bike is still quite new.
New wheels might be your best bet, those factory ones are tanks, but you're gonna have to spend more than $400. Keep stashing your pennies into a jar.
If you're totally set on new group... I think the new black 105 is pretty hot looking... you won't purchase a full group for that budget, not even low end Sora for $400 total.
You might be able to swing just 105 10sp shifters, rear cassette, and new chain, for under $400 and edge into a more modern 10speed drivetrain. Might need a new RD too, but possibly not, shifters handle adjustment distance and clicks... so tiagra RD might work, dunno for sure though.
Shifting quality/speed? may just need to clean or properly tune cable tension, the bike is still quite new.
New wheels might be your best bet, those factory ones are tanks, but you're gonna have to spend more than $400. Keep stashing your pennies into a jar.
If you're totally set on new group... I think the new black 105 is pretty hot looking... you won't purchase a full group for that budget, not even low end Sora for $400 total.
You might be able to swing just 105 10sp shifters, rear cassette, and new chain, for under $400 and edge into a more modern 10speed drivetrain. Might need a new RD too, but possibly not, shifters handle adjustment distance and clicks... so tiagra RD might work, dunno for sure though.
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I tend to agree with Menel. I run 10 speed Dura Ace on bike # 1, 9 speed Dura Ace on Bike #2, and 9 speed Tiagra on Bike # 3. They are are all pretty damn good components and do their job very well. You really have to look hard to notice a performance difference.
The bike I run Tiagra on came with Dura Ace (my cyclocross bike) but I threw Tiagra on it because DA is too good for a bike that is going to be abused. I have never looked back. The tiagra works just fine in every circumstance.
If I were you I would save the money for new wheels and replace the components as needed. Compare the weight savings (the primary benefit of upgrades) from upgrading shifters relative to upgrading wheels. You are talking 30-100 grams versus the possibility of 500 or more grams with a wheel change. Plus, wheel upgrades are usually noticeable in spin up and climbing, whereas my old commuter with downtube shifting climbs the same as my 10 speed dura ace as far as shifting is concerned.
The bike I run Tiagra on came with Dura Ace (my cyclocross bike) but I threw Tiagra on it because DA is too good for a bike that is going to be abused. I have never looked back. The tiagra works just fine in every circumstance.
If I were you I would save the money for new wheels and replace the components as needed. Compare the weight savings (the primary benefit of upgrades) from upgrading shifters relative to upgrading wheels. You are talking 30-100 grams versus the possibility of 500 or more grams with a wheel change. Plus, wheel upgrades are usually noticeable in spin up and climbing, whereas my old commuter with downtube shifting climbs the same as my 10 speed dura ace as far as shifting is concerned.
Last edited by Sawtooth; 02-01-11 at 02:07 PM.
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Thanks, Sawtooth and Menel, for the prompt and helpful replies. I've had some rattling and mis-shifts and one crank arm came loose, all in the first few rides. I've had those issues addressed and maybe jumped to the conclusion that I need upgraded parts.
I am interested in reducing weight/drag where I can, affordably; maybe the wheels are a better starting poing. Here are the wheel specs:
Rims: MAVIC CXP-22N Aluminum Rim w/ Machined UB Control Braking Surface & Wear Indicator laced 3-Cross Rear, Radial 0-Cross Front
Front Hub: Felt Sealed Forged Aluminum w/ Quick Release, 32H
Rear Hub: Felt Forged Aluminum Sealed Shimano 10, 9, or 8 speed Compatible Cassette w/ Quick Release, 32H
I won't be racing, but am doing regular club rides with a competitive bunch of riders, and I want to start doing fast centuries. Any thoughts as to wheel upgrades? Thanks, again.
I am interested in reducing weight/drag where I can, affordably; maybe the wheels are a better starting poing. Here are the wheel specs:
Rims: MAVIC CXP-22N Aluminum Rim w/ Machined UB Control Braking Surface & Wear Indicator laced 3-Cross Rear, Radial 0-Cross Front
Front Hub: Felt Sealed Forged Aluminum w/ Quick Release, 32H
Rear Hub: Felt Forged Aluminum Sealed Shimano 10, 9, or 8 speed Compatible Cassette w/ Quick Release, 32H
I won't be racing, but am doing regular club rides with a competitive bunch of riders, and I want to start doing fast centuries. Any thoughts as to wheel upgrades? Thanks, again.
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Dura-Ace C or S 24 wheels keep popping up on bonktown from time to time for like $550, very possibly an absolute steal for price/performance ratio.
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It sounds like you need to replace your LBS and not your components...
As far as wheels, try these:
https://bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/ind...d&productId=34
As far as wheels, try these:
https://bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/ind...d&productId=34
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Here are the wheel specs:
Rims: MAVIC CXP-22N Aluminum Rim w/ Machined UB Control Braking Surface & Wear Indicator laced 3-Cross Rear, Radial 0-Cross Front
Front Hub: Felt Sealed Forged Aluminum w/ Quick Release, 32H
Rear Hub: Felt Forged Aluminum Sealed Shimano 10, 9, or 8 speed Compatible Cassette w/ Quick Release, 32H
I won't be racing, but am doing regular club rides with a competitive bunch of riders, and I want to start doing fast centuries. Any thoughts as to wheel upgrades? Thanks, again.
Rims: MAVIC CXP-22N Aluminum Rim w/ Machined UB Control Braking Surface & Wear Indicator laced 3-Cross Rear, Radial 0-Cross Front
Front Hub: Felt Sealed Forged Aluminum w/ Quick Release, 32H
Rear Hub: Felt Forged Aluminum Sealed Shimano 10, 9, or 8 speed Compatible Cassette w/ Quick Release, 32H
I won't be racing, but am doing regular club rides with a competitive bunch of riders, and I want to start doing fast centuries. Any thoughts as to wheel upgrades? Thanks, again.
Be aware, however, that the CXP series of rims has adequate respect in the biking world and is pretty strong if not necessarily light. Lots of guys who want to build STRONG wheels do so with CXP 32h rims.
If I were you, (especially since your current wheelset is totally serviceable) I would save up and shoot for the 1500 gram range rather than the 1700 gram range. Personally, I buy almost everything used. I let someone else take the depreciation hit at the cost of incurring a bit more risk on my end. I do almost all of my own wrenching so as long as the item is as described I am good to go.
About a year ago, I bought this wheelset https://cgi.ebay.com/2011-Easton-EA90...item4cf41c133f for just over $300 with about 1500 reported miles on them. I LOVE THEM.
Another option is something like a bontrager racexlite https://cgi.ebay.com/2011-Easton-EA90...item4cf41c133f
Or the Ritchey Protocols : (note: claimed weight on these is higher because they weighed everything on it; most manufacturers report weight without skewers, tires, cassettes, etc) https://cgi.ebay.com/Ritchey-WCS-Prot...item51974b251f
I have owned the eastons, the ritcheys and have the Bontrager Race Lite wheels (one step lower). I am very happy with all three.
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i had an 07 Felt F75 with 105 (except RD was ultegra), wrecked it and now have a 2010 Cannondale 6 Six with full Tiagra (except FD is sora). Overall, i'd say the new tiagra is just as good if not better than the 105 from my Felt. I'm not a huge fan of the sora fd, but otherwise, i see no need to upgrade my group, especially as a rider who isn't racing, just riding because i like to