Spokes: 2.0/1.5 or 1.8/1.6?
#1
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Spokes: 2.0/1.5 or 1.8/1.6?
Just curious why or when you would want to use one type versus the other.
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It's a matter of fashion. Save your money and get straight gauge.
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There are many, many people who will disagree with you on this one. DB spokes are supposedly more durable and less prone to braking at the j-bend because they are able to 'stretch' better in the thinner, middle area relieving stress at the hub flange. Plus I doubt anyone would even know if wheels were using DB or straight gauge spokes without making a close inspection.
OP - I used 2.0/1.7 DB Wheelsmith spokes on my first and only build so far. You can find a great deal of info on this in the mechanics forum as well as some very helpful people. This link is to the thread I started there and gives some helpful tips.
OP - I used 2.0/1.7 DB Wheelsmith spokes on my first and only build so far. You can find a great deal of info on this in the mechanics forum as well as some very helpful people. This link is to the thread I started there and gives some helpful tips.
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I recommend 2.0 on the ends f most builds because a thinner spokes takes away some of the surface area around the holes you're resting on. The last time I built with 1.8/1.6 spokes was when they were for my 80lb brother.
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All things being equal.. I'd agree to a point. Any experienced wheel builder would agree a well built 14 gauge 3x is hard to beat.
Yet.. many of the same of long experience make the case for butted spokes. Some time reading the archives would answer that Q.
2/1.5's vs 1.8/1.6's.. weight weenie issue... coin flip.. or phaze of the moon.
Last edited by SortaGrey; 03-04-11 at 08:00 AM.
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A very good reason to use 2.0 rather than 1.8 for the thicker part of your spokes is that you want a tight fit between the spoke head/bend and the hub hole. The closer the fit in that junction, the better - if the spoke head moves in the hole, it will eventually break
It used to be very standard practice for diligent wheel builders to place small brass washers between the spoke head and the hub hole. As the spoke head seated in the hub hole, the washer would deform and take up all of that space. You don't see it as much now but the principle is valid.
I much prefer double butted but it's not something I argue over.
It used to be very standard practice for diligent wheel builders to place small brass washers between the spoke head and the hub hole. As the spoke head seated in the hub hole, the washer would deform and take up all of that space. You don't see it as much now but the principle is valid.
I much prefer double butted but it's not something I argue over.
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Because there's absolutely no research and engineering going into spoked wheels:
https://www.duke.edu/~hpgavin/papers/...heel-Paper.pdf
https://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Wheel-.../dp/0960723668
Posting opinions does not refute multiple published and peer-reviewed science.
https://www.duke.edu/~hpgavin/papers/...heel-Paper.pdf
https://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Wheel-.../dp/0960723668
Posting opinions does not refute multiple published and peer-reviewed science.
#9
fuggitivo solitario
Because there's absolutely no research and engineering going into spoked wheels:
https://www.duke.edu/~hpgavin/papers/...heel-Paper.pdf
https://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Wheel-.../dp/0960723668
Posting opinions does not refute multiple published and peer-reviewed science.
https://www.duke.edu/~hpgavin/papers/...heel-Paper.pdf
https://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Wheel-.../dp/0960723668
Posting opinions does not refute multiple published and peer-reviewed science.
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The 1.8mm thread results in less torque on the spoke than the 2.0mm and the 1.6mm middle is 29% stiffer in torsion than 1.5mm so windup is less of a problem; although I've never had problems getting properly lubricated nipples on 2.0/1.5 DT Revolutions to 110kgf. That may become an issue in low spoke count wheels where you want higher tension.
1.8/1.6mm spokes are also hard to find.
That said the 1.8mm elbow is strong enough when they match the hubs regardless of rider weight - Jobst Brandt isn't a small guy but has put over 100,000 miles on a single set of 15/16 gauge spokes.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 03-06-11 at 07:41 PM.
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DT revolutions in 2.0/1.5/2.0mm tend to stretch over time.
1.8/1.6/1.8mm might be a bit more desirable in smaller wheels, like 26" wheels.
1.8/1.6/1.8mm might be a bit more desirable in smaller wheels, like 26" wheels.
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
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They do not stretch.
I've gotten up to 14 years out of wheels with DT Revolutions before touching the nipples due to bent rims that needed replacement (I first replaced the rim in 2010 after building the wheel sometime between 1996 and when Mavic discontinued Reflex clincher rims near the end of the decade).
If you needed to true the wheels without rim damage the builder screwed up by failing to put enough tension in the spokes. Maybe he didn't lubricate the threads and couldn't get them tight enough with the extra windup that goes with the thinner spokes. Maybe he tried to tension by tone.
I've gotten up to 14 years out of wheels with DT Revolutions before touching the nipples due to bent rims that needed replacement (I first replaced the rim in 2010 after building the wheel sometime between 1996 and when Mavic discontinued Reflex clincher rims near the end of the decade).
If you needed to true the wheels without rim damage the builder screwed up by failing to put enough tension in the spokes. Maybe he didn't lubricate the threads and couldn't get them tight enough with the extra windup that goes with the thinner spokes. Maybe he tried to tension by tone.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 03-06-11 at 07:46 PM.
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The spokes don't stretch.
I've gotten up to 14 years out of wheels with DT Revolutions before touching the nipples due to bent rims that needed replacement (I first replaced the rim in 2010 after building the wheel sometime between 1996 and when Mavic discontinued Reflex clincher rims near the end of the decade).
If you needed to true the wheels without rim damage the builder screwed up by failing to put enough tension in the spokes. Maybe he didn't lubricate the threads and couldn't get them tight enough with the extra windup that goes with the thinner spokes. Maybe he tried to tension by tone.
I've gotten up to 14 years out of wheels with DT Revolutions before touching the nipples due to bent rims that needed replacement (I first replaced the rim in 2010 after building the wheel sometime between 1996 and when Mavic discontinued Reflex clincher rims near the end of the decade).
If you needed to true the wheels without rim damage the builder screwed up by failing to put enough tension in the spokes. Maybe he didn't lubricate the threads and couldn't get them tight enough with the extra windup that goes with the thinner spokes. Maybe he tried to tension by tone.
I see plenty of reputable wheel builders on here not recommend DT revo for drive side rear due to the stretching.
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
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I tried building a rear wheel with DT Rev spokes. It didn't last long at all before I snapped 2-3 DS spokes doing uphill sprint intervals.