kaimat

Recently I decided to lower my handlebars, and I did it by removing the handlebars, removing the carbon spacers, putting the handlebars back and then putting the spacers on top.

So now I have a bunch of spacers on top of the handlebars and it just looks kinda funny. I've looked through some threads here and I haven't seen anyone else who has that kind of setup so it makes me feel like I did something wrong.

How do you lower your handlebars the right way?

Here is a picture of it (the black lines are the carbon spacers):

Silvercivic27

I have mine the same way.

sbxx1985 

You did nothing wrong. Just cut the steerer.

WhyFi

You just need to cut off some of the steering tube. Just watch out for the expansion plug - don't saw in to it.

I've been lazy, and I have some trimming to do, myself.

iiimik3

When lowering your bars by moving the stem down the steerer, you'll eventually want to cut down the stem. However, you want to make sure that you do like/need the bars in that position, because theres no going back after you cut it, without replacing the fork.

arvinr

one usually cuts the steer tube as well, which is why you usually don't see huge stacks of spacers. just be sure you have it set up the way you want, because once you cut the tube you can't go back.

kaimat

Thanks you guys.

himespau 

flip the stem

climber7

not really. yes, most people do that because it looks better, but having extra steerer tube/spacers on top of the stem does not negatively affect the performance of the bike in any way - at least that's what i've been told. ride with it for a while (probably a good long while) and make absolutely sure you're comfortable in the new position.

svtmike

I was lowering my bars this winter because I wasn't getting the hip rotation that I wanted in the drops. Then I decided I didn't know for certain what I was doing, got a fit and found out I should have been raising my saddle. Not saying that's your issue, just want to advise that you don't want to cut your steerer too short and then find out that the real issue is with saddle position.

grwoolf

I just ride with the spacers. To me, it doesn't look that funny and I see a lot of people with them. Unless you are particular about your bike's appearence or you are a weight fanatic, I wouldn't mess with it. If you do get it cut, I'd still leave a little room on top to make changes later (even different stems can require different steerer tube lengths). Nice bike by the way, I like red. I think you should switch to black or white tape though.

mvnsnd

I would also recommend to leave the spacers in for a while, until you are comfortable with the new position.

Did you properly load the headset before you tightened the stem in place?

kaimat

What do you mean? I put the rings back on and then tightened it to the 53 in lbs setting.

Walter

Bingo! X2

svtmike

You should pre-load the headset bearings by lightly tightening the top cap bolt, then tighten the stem bolts.

rishardh

In theory lowering the handlebar should lead to sliding your saddle a little bit behind for balance which leads to lowering you seat post to counter the increase in leg extension. These are subtle changes and it doesn't bother some riders but if you are sliding back on your saddle after you lower the handlebar these adjustments are needed.

Accordion

Wait a second, nobody is going to comment on that Graphic-Of-The-Year nominee? Ok, I'll follow suit and won't either.

sbxx1985 

I thought it was great, especially since it was added for clarification.

dstrong 

I tighten the bolt until I get some resistance, then I shake the fork up and down to see if I feel any play. If so, I tighten another quarter turn and test again. I repeat until I feel no movement. Once I tighten the stem down I also check to make sure I haven't over tightened it by lifting the fron of the bike to make sure the bars will "flop" freely side to side with no resistance.

sqharaway

This is the funniest thing I've seen on BF in a long time. Nice work!

Like others said, take your bike into a shop and ask them to cut the steer tube.

WhyFi

Yes, really. OP asked why his set-up looked different, and it's because his steering tube isn't cut. If he WANTS it to look the same, he NEEDS to cut. Stop quoting me and telling me that I'm wrong when, in the context of the question, I'm correct.

mvnsnd

With the stem loose on the steerer tube, tighten the top bolt until you feel resistance. Then tighten the stem to the steerer. I usually check for play using the front brake to hold the wheel and try to rock the bike forward and back. If you can feel any play, it's too loose. Loosen the stem bolts and make another 1/8 turn of the top bolt. Then tighten the stem to the steerer tube. Repeat until any play is gone. You only want to tighten the top bolt enough to eliminate the play. Any tighter and you put more load than necessary on the bearings.

svtmike

With a carbon steerer tube, you want the expander plug to be what the stem is clamping, so that it's not crushing an empty section of the steerer tube (and leading to failure). This usually means only a minimal amount of stack possible above the stem. With alloy and steel steerers, the periscope doesn't matter.

merlinextraligh

IIRC, Canondale specs a limit on the amount of spacers above the stem for this reason.

MNX1024

Don't mean to hijack, but I'm looking into handle bar height. How do I know when I need to lower the handlebar and by how much?