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-   -   $600 and $1500 bikes - frame quality difference? (https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycling/731749-600-1500-bikes-frame-quality-difference.html)

rolliepollie 05-01-11 07:17 AM

$600 and $1500 bikes - frame quality difference?
 
Are there big differences in aluminum frame quality/weight between, say a $600 and ~$1500 bike? I have a 05 or 06 Specialized Allez Sport I got for $600 and deciding whether I should upgrade parts then buy a nice frame, or just get a new bike around $1500. It seems at that range I get at least 105 components and name-brand wheels, stems and handlebars, but not much else. My Allez already has Specialized carbon fork and seatpost and 105 rear derailler, and the Alex400 rims seem to be holding up despite negative reviews. I guess the underlaying question is if a 5 year old $600 bike far less than a modern $1200-$1500 build?

roccobike 05-01-11 07:37 AM

If the question is should you upgrade your Allez or are you better off spending the $1500 on a new bike, the answer is buy a new bike. Upgrading an older bike is expensive. At $1500 you can find some lower end full carbon bikes, probably with 105.
If you really like the Allez and are bent on upgrading it, buy a much better wheel set. Spend at least $700 or more (like maybe the full $1500) and keep the old wheel set in storage. Why? You can always take a really nice wheel set and transfer it to a new bike later.

rolliepollie 05-01-11 12:07 PM

Hmm I'd rather try to keep it as long as I'm not missing too much from a modern frame/fork. I figured for $1500 I can seriously upgrade my current rig. Plus I like the plain black styling of it.

Are good wheels really at about $700? I'm afraid to spend so much on rims that rub away on brake pads, or might get destroyed on a pothole.

pgjackson 05-01-11 12:19 PM


Originally Posted by rolliepollie (Post 12579776)
Hmm I'd rather try to keep it as long as I'm not missing too much from a modern frame/fork. I figured for $1500 I can seriously upgrade my current rig. Plus I like the plain black styling of it.

Are good wheels really at about $700? I'm afraid to spend so much on rims that rub away on brake pads, or might get destroyed on a pothole.

There are a lot of people here who think nothing of spending $1000+ on a set of wheels. Ebay has a lot of good wheelsets under $400. Personally, I would not spend a fortune on wheels unless I was getting paid to ride. I doubt you are missing out on any frame "revolutions" if yours is a 05-06 frame. If you look carefully, many manufacturers use the same frames on their alluminum bikes in the sub-$2000 range and just slap on higer level components to justify the higher price. I will say those Alex rims tend to be pretty heavy...that would be the first thing I change.

Nick Bain 05-01-11 12:39 PM

frame quality should be the same since they are all built to last. Higher price just means lighter. I also think that components drive the cost up faster than frame level. I like bikes with low spoke count wheels like shimano rs-10, rs-20, r550, and mavic aksium, kyserium. They just feel better at speed and cornering. Those wheels should be found on bikes 1200-2000. Lately it seems they have been dumbing down wheelsets in order to promote upgrading to pricier wheelsets or bikes so they can get your money.

SactoDoug 05-01-11 12:53 PM

If I were you, I would save your money and get either a carbon or titanium framed bike in a year or two. You already have an aluminum bike. A new one is not going to be much of an improvement over what you already have.

rolliepollie 05-01-11 01:17 PM


Originally Posted by SactoDoug (Post 12579926)
If I were you, I would save your money and get either a carbon or titanium framed bike in a year or two. You already have an aluminum bike. A new one is not going to be much of an improvement over what you already have.

I was thinking of saving for a Lynskey frame but it's probably more of a "luxury" uprade for me. Unless titanium feels entirely different from aluminum? I'd probably get some more noticeable upgrades first starting with the wheelset, then 105 upgrades + crankset, then frame. Plus by that time I'll have a better idea of what frame dimensions/geometry suits me more.

Although..the Alex AT400 rims are only 400g according to the website, around the same or lighter as more expensive rims. Most of the negative reviews on the AT400's suggest spoke breakage or going out of true, but none of those occur to me after I trued them once. Otherwise I was eyeing the Easton EA90 http://www.performancebike.com/bikes...0_20000_400222
Still freaky how they're almost the cost of my bike!

Bacciagalupe 05-01-11 01:23 PM

I'd say it depends a bit on why you want to upgrade and how much you ride.

If you have put 20,000 miles on your old bike and half the drivetrain needs to be swapped out because you've worn it to bits, then it's worthwhile to pick up a new bike and use the old one as a backup / beater bike.

If you only put 2,000 miles on your old bike in the past 5 or so years, well, it's probably not worth upgrading in the first place. ;)

You might also want to get a full overhaul for your bike, and if you've put ~5000 miles on it, replace some of the worn parts. It won't be cheap, but it'll be a fraction the cost of buying a new bike. If the mechanic does a good job it will probably ride like when it was brand new.

rolliepollie 05-01-11 01:31 PM


Originally Posted by Bacciagalupe (Post 12580027)
I'd say it depends a bit on why you want to upgrade and how much you ride.

If you have put 20,000 miles on your old bike and half the drivetrain needs to be swapped out because you've worn it to bits, then it's worthwhile to pick up a new bike and use the old one as a backup / beater bike.

If you only put 2,000 miles on your old bike in the past 5 or so years, well, it's probably not worth upgrading in the first place. ;)

You might also want to get a full overhaul for your bike, and if you've put ~5000 miles on it, replace some of the worn parts. It won't be cheap, but it'll be a fraction the cost of buying a new bike. If the mechanic does a good job it will probably ride like when it was brand new.

A bit embarassing to say it only has around 1k miles until I suddenly stopped riding - not from declining interest I should add. Got back to riding a new mtn bike but discovered trails and adrenaline aren't for me, so back to road now. I'll be doing roughly 80 miles a week so.. at least 3k a year.

Bah gonna stop eyeballin this thread for now. Gonna take a spin :love:

pgjackson 05-01-11 04:47 PM


Originally Posted by rolliepollie (Post 12579996)
I was thinking of saving for a Lynskey frame but it's probably more of a "luxury" uprade for me. Unless titanium feels entirely different from aluminum? I'd probably get some more noticeable upgrades first starting with the wheelset, then 105 upgrades + crankset, then frame. Plus by that time I'll have a better idea of what frame dimensions/geometry suits me more.

Although..the Alex AT400 rims are only 400g according to the website, around the same or lighter as more expensive rims. Most of the negative reviews on the AT400's suggest spoke breakage or going out of true, but none of those occur to me after I trued them once. Otherwise I was eyeing the Easton EA90 http://www.performancebike.com/bikes...0_20000_400222
Still freaky how they're almost the cost of my bike!

Maybe 400g for just the rim without spokes and the hub.

akeelor 05-01-11 05:12 PM


Originally Posted by SactoDoug (Post 12579926)
If I were you, I would save your money and get either a carbon or titanium framed bike in a year or two. You already have an aluminum bike. A new one is not going to be much of an improvement over what you already have.

Or..he could save a bunch and get a very high quality used CF bike with DA. See this link:

http://classifieds.roadbikereview.co...?product=24846

Tri117 05-01-11 05:56 PM

Interesting question. I have a hybrid that I jut used from my first tri. While I averaged 16 mph, I got tired of all those on road bikes zooming past me. So I am considering a road bike for my next tri, but have budget constraints. One of my options is getting a Specialized Allez at 699 (lower end; sport is next model up), and upgrading it over time, and my other option is waiting longer and purchase a better bike at 1500.

My Upgrade Analysis:
Assuming the Allez you have compares to the ones out there now your components are Shimano Tiagra/Soro. your next level up in components (whole group sets) is Shimano 105 ($500+or-), Ultegra ($1000+), Dura Ace (don't ask). Alternatively you can go down the SRAM path with SRAM Rival ($900 + or -) or SRAM Force ($1300 + or -). And there are wheels. I personally like the ones that have the additional one or two inch rim on the inside (Bontrager Aeolus at $750 and up per wheel).

Purchase Analysis:
At 1,000 to $1,300 you can several nice bikes with Shimano 105 components, but the frames are going to be similar to what you have. Aluminum with a carbon fork. Felt F85 ($999 but the shifters are by MicroShift), Trek 2.1 ($1,300), Giant Defy 1 ($1,300). Up your budget to $1,400 Fuji has a Carbon Fiber Bike at Performance Bicycle the SL 1. Buy the time you hit $1,700 there are many entry composite bikes you can consider with alt least a Shimano 105 component set or similar. But it seems you get what you pay for. For example Felt's F85 at $999 is a bargain, until you realize that shifters are a pricey part of the component group set and they are using the cheaper MicroShift (not saying they are not good). Most reviews on new mentions the wheels could have been better on the models that are priced lower.

Conclusion:
I still have a dilemma because I don't have a bike frame. Your choice is simpler. Composite frame or not. If not, the Allez frame is a good frame to build on. You will end up paying more than $1,500 for your upgrades over time, but your bike will be unique, and probably better than any Allez out there. If you are fine with the Aluminun, go for the upgrade.

Jay-W 05-01-11 07:04 PM

1000 miles of use? You've barely ridden it.

Best upgrade right now are wheels. If you really want to change your ride you can buy a nice carbon frame for that coin and transfer your parts over. Frame = heart and soul of the bike.

mattkime 05-01-11 08:12 PM

Ride your bike more and you'll have a better idea of what to upgrade. I don't think you've pushed that bike to its limits.

sharp 05-01-11 11:50 PM


Originally Posted by akeelor (Post 12580820)
Or..he could save a bunch and get a very high quality used CF bike with DA. See this link:

http://classifieds.roadbikereview.co...?product=24846

This is what I did..got an 05 Specialized Roubaix Comp with DA / Ultegra for $1000

rolliepollie 05-01-11 11:51 PM

Thanks for chiming in, all. I certainly feel it'll be a waste if I just sold it now that I think about it, but the upgrade bug was biting me hard. I forgot about manufacturers using the same frame/geometries on certain lines of bikes.
Forgot to mention I prefer not to get used - I guess I'm the paranoid type but would rather pay for new for that peace of mind.

Now can't wait to get that dream titanium with my name sketched on it:love: but oh so far away!

NathanC 05-02-11 12:33 AM


Originally Posted by pgjackson (Post 12580728)
Maybe 400g for just the rim without spokes and the hub.

400 grams is quite light for a rim. My KinLin XR200's are 390 gram per rim.

abstractform20 05-02-11 01:21 AM


Originally Posted by rolliepollie (Post 12578916)
Are there big differences in aluminum frame quality/weight between, say a $600 and ~$1500 bike? I have a 05 or 06 Specialized Allez Sport I got for $600 and deciding whether I should upgrade parts then buy a nice frame, or just get a new bike around $1500. It seems at that range I get at least 105 components and name-brand wheels, stems and handlebars, but not much else. My Allez already has Specialized carbon fork and seatpost and 105 rear derailler, and the Alex400 rims seem to be holding up despite negative reviews. I guess the underlaying question is if a 5 year old $600 bike far less than a modern $1200-$1500 build?

weight, probably but not a crazy amount. more importantly will be the geometry.


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