Easton Circuit + 105 Cassette, 1mm Spacer Doesn't Fit
05-08-11, 04:15 AM
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Easton Circuit + 105 Cassette, 1mm Spacer Doesn't Fit
I am trying to use my 105 cassette with my Easton Circuits. I previously used a Sram PG1070 cassette, which does not require any spacer.
The Easton user manual says I have C1 hubs which require the 1m spacer with Shimano 10 speed cassettes. The Shimano manual also says to use the spacer as well.
But when I try to use the spacer, the lock ring cannot be threaded as it does not reach the freehub.
I installed it without the spacer and it fits fine and the alignment is similar to the Sram cassette, meaning I did not have to adjust the derailleur.
Should I just carry on using it without the spacer?
The Easton user manual says I have C1 hubs which require the 1m spacer with Shimano 10 speed cassettes. The Shimano manual also says to use the spacer as well.
But when I try to use the spacer, the lock ring cannot be threaded as it does not reach the freehub.
I installed it without the spacer and it fits fine and the alignment is similar to the Sram cassette, meaning I did not have to adjust the derailleur.
Should I just carry on using it without the spacer?
Last edited by lwrncc; 05-08-11 at 01:28 PM.
05-08-11, 04:55 AM
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I can't think of any issue with just using it. If the uncertainty is bothering you, call Easton customer service. I've found them to very helpful, even with complex technical questions.
05-08-11, 04:57 AM
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And BTW, I've put a 105 cassette on my EA 90s without the spacer, and the cogs are clearly loose, so I think it's pretty obvious when you really need the spacer.
05-10-11, 01:48 AM
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Tried calling them, keep getting "our office is closed" even during office hours. E-mailed them instead, still waiting on reply.
05-10-11, 05:33 AM
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I had the same issue when I switched to my new wheels. I could not get the lockring on with the spacer.
But it's very close isn't it? It seems like you can just get it started, but you don't want to strip the threads by forcing it any further, right? Here's what I found when I took it to my trusted mechanic:
Push on that sucker and thread it on. It will go. The flange of the lockring is somewhat flexible and it will flex and allow the threads to engage further. He threaded it on in 3 seconds right in front of me and gave me that "this is why we're both glad you shop here instead of buying everything online" smile.
But it's very close isn't it? It seems like you can just get it started, but you don't want to strip the threads by forcing it any further, right? Here's what I found when I took it to my trusted mechanic:
Push on that sucker and thread it on. It will go. The flange of the lockring is somewhat flexible and it will flex and allow the threads to engage further. He threaded it on in 3 seconds right in front of me and gave me that "this is why we're both glad you shop here instead of buying everything online" smile.
05-10-11, 09:43 AM
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Just don't use it then. As long as the cassette isn't loose and your derailleur is working, you'll be fine.
This is a shot in the dark, but make sure there isn't already a spacer on the cassette body, or even the cassette. They are think and can often look like part of the hub's or cassette's assembly. If not, refer to the advice above.
This is a shot in the dark, but make sure there isn't already a spacer on the cassette body, or even the cassette. They are think and can often look like part of the hub's or cassette's assembly. If not, refer to the advice above.
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