byrnemm

I recently bought a 2005 Specialized Allez Comp Double, my first road bike . I hesitated at buying a standard double but the deal was too good to pass up. I've taken it on a few 20+ mile rides so far and love it. Hills are tough, yeah, but I've only done short climbs so far, nothing serious. I was wondering if it makes sense to switch out the cassette when I go on rides with long, steep climbs.

The stock cassette is a 2005 CS-7800 Dura-Ace 11-23. 173g. At ~$250, switching to another Dura-Ace isnt an option at the moment.

I could switch it with a 2010 Ultegra CS-6700 11-25, 12-25, or 11-28. Weight ~220g.

The Ultegra weighs 45-50g more and sets me back ~$70. Here's what I would get in return:

Stock: highest gearing is 39/23 = 1.70
Ultegra 11-25 (or 12-25): 39/25 = 1.56
OR
Ultegra 11-28: 39/28 = 1.39

The numbers don't mean much to me right now, so I'm seeking the community's advice on whether the difference is palpable and/or worth the $ and increase in weight.

I'm fine for the time being; just thinking about the future. If anyone wants to see it I can post a picture, but flashly looks are not this bike's forte.

Thanks!

Bioluminescence

Or you could HTFU for free!

Gluteus

Yes.
11-28 = significantly better for steep hills.

byrnemm

+1

That said, this question is mostly about maintaining a higher rpm cadence on hills by switching gearing.

celticfrost

Not sure about your current fitness level, climbing ability or goals. But w/ the 11-23 there may be times when your heart says more hills/climbing but your legs say no. For that, I'd go w/ the 11-28 and be done w/ it. You could then make the $70 back if then deciding you don't want/need the 11-23 by selling it. The only thing you may not like about the 11-28 is the gear spacing.

Drew Eckhardt 

The weight increase will make you .07% slower which would only matter if you weighed about 2 pounds per inch of height (140 pounds for a 5'10" cyclist), were otherwise competitive, and were off the front in a hill climb where it'd let you gain about 2.5 seconds per hour on your competitiors.

A 25 or 26 cog is about one gear easier than a 23.

You don't need an 11 or a 12. 53x13 is a 32-35 MPH cruising gear and 38-45 MPH sprinting gear. For faster descents just stop pedaling and tuck. If you can't pedal that fast work on your spin. Skip the 11 and 12 to gain 16 and 18 cogs in the middle for cassettes ending in a 25 or 26.

53-39 x 13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23-26 10 speed is a nice combination with 39x26 enough to get a fit 150 pound rider up anything in the Colorado Rockies. Miche makes that combination.

You might not weigh 150 pounds, be fit, live in the mountains, etc. and therefore need lower gears. Or not.

tagaproject6

increase in weight??? Insignificant.
However, I've had 12-25 and 11-28 allows me to spin at a more effecient level for going up the the hills.

AdelaaR

Obviously there is a noticable difference between cassettes on hills, but until you meet a hill you can not cope with on your current cassette you shouldn't worry about it.
An 11-23 cassette like the one you have now has less interval between gears and so it will actually be beneficial on long climbs in letting you find exactly the right gear for specific hills.

caloso

If the route includes anything more than a freeway overpass, I want at least 25 teeth. 27 or 28 if there's anything particularly steep or sustained.

byrnemm

You guys are awesome; better answers than I ever expected in less than 5 minutes. My current fitness is power/sprinting first and endurance second; in general my cadence is always too slow. On hills my bottleneck is definitely my legs. AdelaaR I'll take your advice to heart about waiting for a hill that I can't beat.

datlas 

I agree that if your current gearing works for you, keep it. If you are grinding up the tough hills at 40 RPM then get the 11-28.

P.S. I currently run 12-23 with standard crank and like it just fine.

Palomar01

A 39/53 front with a 12-23T rear is definitely for a fit rider. You can climb hills on it but you had better be very fit to sustain a 39-23 climb at a reasonable RPM. This is why 34/50 (compact) and 12/25T are so popular nowadays.

If I lived in a flat area I would have the 39-53 and 12-23T combo. I prefer the closer spacing. I live in a hilly area and not as fit as I would like, and I also want to save my knees so compact front, 11-25T rear.

tFUnK

I run 34/50 x 11/28 on my climbing bike, it really is a noticeable improvement compared to the 12/25 cassette I used to have. I have a 39/53 x 13/23 on the speed bike and it is terrible on sustained climbs or even short bursts of 20% grade.

urbanknight

There is a noticeable difference. I once bought an 11-28 cassette and had a hell of a time climbing one of my regular mountain routes the next day. I kept feeling like my cadence was too slow for the speed I was carrying. The next 2 trips up that mountain were equally difficult, then I looked at the cassette and realized they had put an 11-25 in the 11-28 box.

Like tfunk, I have a 50/34 11-28 on my bike so I can climb steeper hills... or any hills at the moment since I'm so out of shape

tandemnh

It becomes a personal preference and what and where you ride. I recently bought a C'Dale R2000 Triple and have bought replacement cassettes to swap out depending on the road to be traveled. Having the Triple is like have the best of a Standard Double and a Compact. 52x42x30 I have three cassettes 12x23, 12x27, 12x30. Depending on what I'm riding I'll swap them out. Living in NH and going up to the mountains the 12x30 can be a help, though 30x30 is ridiculously high cadence.

It’s all about what you’re trying to accomplish.

raydog

Wow, this is a great strand of info! Since I'm riding the Tour of Colorado in 2 weeks, I'm not using my bike that has a 50/34, 11/28 compact, I'm using the bike with a triple....53/42/30 and 11/28 cassette. I may never use the small front but it's nice to know it's there....particularily since there are two 12k passes on the week long ride! I'm in great shape but 215 pounds is 215 pounds!

Seattle Forrest

Get the cassette, and sell the one you have now. Do lots of hill repeats when you have some down time.

10 Wheels

I have some young friends that do that ride each year.
They have all changed the 30T to a 24T.

Very nice when you need it.

FogVilleLad

On the first day of three successive climbing stages, Alberto Contador switched bikes. The Universal Sports announcer said that his replacement had a 36 tooth inner chainring and a 32 tooth granny cog.

David Millar used a 42 tooth inner chainring and a 36 tooth granny cog for the climbs.

Your legs will tell you what to do. If you're laboring, gear down. Start with the cassette. Right now it'd be a good idea to work on your endurance. Bigger cogs will help you to do that.

If you bought your bike from an LBS, maybe see if they can fit a loaner cassette.

ericm979

When you're doing big climbs it's better to have a lower gear than you need than to need a lower gear than you have. When you are overgeared your legs get tired quickly.

If it doesn't hurt enough, shift to a higher gear.

caloso

If you can't tell the difference between cassettes on hills don't go to Europe.

patentcad

I have 11-25's on my bikes. For anything over a 10% grade (even in a very competitive fast ride or race), or if you ride up hills that are 8% plus and prolonged, particularly when you're tired, you're probably going to want at least a 25 sooner or later, even if you're a not a bad climber.

Palomar01

I think that if you live in a mountainous terrain, a Triple front is a must-have if you want to have more fun and suffer less.

One of my friends who rides a 16 lbs bike and was an avid racer not long ago, whom I consider very fit and fast, tried climbing Palomar Mountain in San Diego. He had a compact crank 50-34 and 12-28T rear cog. He told me he was suffering quite a bit what with the thinner air and constant climbing for miles! He suggested that next time he would prefer a bigger granny gear or a triple with a 30 crank in it. I won't even attempt to climb that mountain with a standard compact and 11-25T cassette. It's actually a gradual climb for a few miles PRIOR to getting to the mountain, then its steep switchback for 7.5 miles! I get tired just thinking about it!

Another friend who went to watch the MT. Baldy stage of the Tour of CA climbed Mt Baldy to watch. He had a 53-39 crank and 12-28T cassette. It took him over 3 hours to climb the 12 mile section of Mt. Baldy--he said it was very steep in some sections and he had to stop several times.

pallen

I recently went to an 11-28 and love it. I don't often need the 28, but when I do, I really need it. I would say your purchase decision would have more to do with the terrain you want to ride. If you never climb steep hills and prefer a lot of fine cadence adjustment shifting, then stay with the 11-23. If you find yourself needing more range in the hills, the 11-28 will make a significant difference.

Then again, maybe I only need the 28 because I'm too fat for this sport...

Palomar01

I found the 11-28T had a bit of a gap around the 4th & 5th gears that I don't like and makes me go to the 34 front sooner. I really prefer a 12-23 especially in rolling terrain but it sucks when you have any significant hills unless you have a triple up front.