Installing Yokozuna Reaction Cables
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Installing Yokozuna Reaction Cables
Ok, gone through several threads and what I got was, it's a "female dog" to install. Is that true? Some say they can't use the Parktool cutter to cut the housing and have to use a dremel to cut it, other said they're successful in using the Parktool cutter. So, can everyone who has installed these particular cable themselves(or seen some one do it) tell me in detail what their experience was? I'm about to install them myself soon and I'm hoping to get it right the first time. Is there any specific things I have to look out for when installing these cables?
Do I have to lube these cables before I put them into the housing? If yes, is there a proper way to lube it and how do I do it? Does dry chain lube works, I have Pedro's Extra Dry all purpose lube?
There seem to be some fit problems with Campy shifters and these cables, is there any problems with Sram Force shifters and these cables?
Has anyone used these cables with Planet-X brakes? Is there any troubles with this combination?
P.S. This may sound stupid, but I have no idea about it. When re-cabling the brakes and derrailleurs, do I have to screw the adjuster barrel completely in before stretching the cable?
Do I have to lube these cables before I put them into the housing? If yes, is there a proper way to lube it and how do I do it? Does dry chain lube works, I have Pedro's Extra Dry all purpose lube?
There seem to be some fit problems with Campy shifters and these cables, is there any problems with Sram Force shifters and these cables?
Has anyone used these cables with Planet-X brakes? Is there any troubles with this combination?
P.S. This may sound stupid, but I have no idea about it. When re-cabling the brakes and derrailleurs, do I have to screw the adjuster barrel completely in before stretching the cable?
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Just built up my new bike with a Yoko Reaction kit. Practiced first with the stock SRAM housing and I can say for sure that the brake housings are much stiffer than the stock stuff. I used a Park tool cutter which squished the housing a little, but a squeeze with pliers and a poke with a nail opened it back up. A dremel would be nice to dress the edges, but is not necessary, imo.
1. AFIAK the cables come pre lubed (handling the cables got what I can only deduce to be lube on my hands). I didn't lube mine and they work very nicely.
2. No problem, except the brake housing ferrules do not fit in the brake/shifter slot. I just did without the ferrule. Only about 250 miles but no problems so far.
3. I don't see any problems with this. Don't have first hand experience, however.
4. This is what I did. When i got a little cable stretch a few quarter turns out brought me back to the right tension. As the cables stretch, you'll only want to "lengthen the housing." Setting the barrel adjuster all the way in will give you the most adjustments without having to redo the cable clamp thingy. AFIAK I can't see any disadvantages with doing this.
Hope that helps.
1. AFIAK the cables come pre lubed (handling the cables got what I can only deduce to be lube on my hands). I didn't lube mine and they work very nicely.
2. No problem, except the brake housing ferrules do not fit in the brake/shifter slot. I just did without the ferrule. Only about 250 miles but no problems so far.
3. I don't see any problems with this. Don't have first hand experience, however.
4. This is what I did. When i got a little cable stretch a few quarter turns out brought me back to the right tension. As the cables stretch, you'll only want to "lengthen the housing." Setting the barrel adjuster all the way in will give you the most adjustments without having to redo the cable clamp thingy. AFIAK I can't see any disadvantages with doing this.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by QTipConnoisseur; 06-08-11 at 12:58 AM. Reason: Additional information.
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The housings are stiffer than standard cables, and the cables themselves are a little stronger than normal cables. This is where improved performance comes from. As a result, they are a little harder to install. In some cases, they won't work (internal housing routing on my ITM handlebars ... turns are too tight). On most installations, they are just a little more difficult, but I love the performance improvement in braking mostly, shifting secondarily.
The biggest recommendation, although not necessary, is to use a dremel to cut and finish the cables. Works like a charm. I don't lube and they work great.
The biggest recommendation, although not necessary, is to use a dremel to cut and finish the cables. Works like a charm. I don't lube and they work great.
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I use them on SRAM Force and had no problems installing them with my Dremmel. The Park cutter is very good so would probably do the job, cheaper (or blunt) cutters wouldn't, the brake housing is very thick.
I also love the difference it makes to braking.
I also love the difference it makes to braking.
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I picked up a $20 commercial grade cable/wire cutter from Home Depot and it cuts the Yokozuna cables with ease. My 09 S2 and my brother's 08 carbon soloist have Yokozuna cables installed. With the exception of my S2, I didn't bother installing the Yokozuna shifter cables because it took me forever getting the Sram cables right so they could line up correctly on the S2's internal cable system. When I'm ready to install new bar tape, derailleur cables, I'll finish it off with the Yokozuna shifter cables.
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So, whose hands did they cut off with that thing?
Anyway, I have both a dremel(borrowed) and the park too cutter in my possession. I'm actually not sure what I should use. The dremel kind of put me off because there's so many pieces to assembled.lol
Anyway, I have both a dremel(borrowed) and the park too cutter in my possession. I'm actually not sure what I should use. The dremel kind of put me off because there's so many pieces to assembled.lol
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No issues at all. Casing cuts nice and clean with the park or any other as long as the cutting blades bypass. I just completed a build for a coworker, used his tools(Spin Doctor) cut em as well as my park. Lp
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I use a dremel tool to cut cable housings out of habit now. If you want to avoid the housing being crushed when cutting, insert a piece of copper wire into the cable housing and then cut. This is specially useful if you a lined cable housing.
I also saturate the cable with super glue and treat it with zip kicker (to accelerate the curing of superglue) before cutting to ensure neat cuts and prevent fraying of the cable. Makes for a neat finish of cables.
Yeah, I know...I'm kinda OCD when assembling/maintaining bikes. Heck I wrap a frame in bubble wrap during assembly and willnot take it off until the final adjustments are going to be made
I also saturate the cable with super glue and treat it with zip kicker (to accelerate the curing of superglue) before cutting to ensure neat cuts and prevent fraying of the cable. Makes for a neat finish of cables.
Yeah, I know...I'm kinda OCD when assembling/maintaining bikes. Heck I wrap a frame in bubble wrap during assembly and willnot take it off until the final adjustments are going to be made

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The cableset is great, but I did have some problem with how stiff it was. I can not use it on my BMC because of this and because it doesn't fit into the bosses on the bike. I liked it on my older Felt and would have used it again. I have a Shimano brand cutter and it worked fine on the housing with just a little re-squeeze at the end.
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A message to the OP: I recently installed a set of Yoko cables on my R3 with only the Parktool cable cutter. It cuts the spiral housing just fine. You just have to snip it quickly and then use some regular pliers to round the end. They ovalize slightly after cutting them.
No special lubes or anything crazy. They really are just like any other cables as far as installation goes.
I don't like the idea of using a dremel because of the little particles that could find their way into the casing.
Last edited by ilovecycling; 06-09-11 at 07:40 PM.
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i am pretty sure PSIMET installed mine with the standar Park Tools cutter with no issues. i know i watched with no issues. later.
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