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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Road Bike Confusion

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Old 06-17-11, 06:46 PM
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The only catch - OP already has a trailer/errand bike. He's looking for a 2nd, faster bike. Hence the recommendation for a $700 intro-level drop-bar road bike, or used equivalent.
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Old 06-17-11, 07:25 PM
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A guy I know had the same conundrum recently. Bought a Scott Sub10 and put drop bars on it. He is happier than a pig in ****.

It can accept wider or narrower wheels/tires, is comfortable for long distances, and with drop bars will put you in a position that is a little more aerodynamic.

Last edited by Vicelord; 06-17-11 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 06-18-11, 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by sdoowe
Extremely informative, Menel! That's exactly the kind of thing I'm looking for. I really want to be a serious rider and understand this stuff, but it seems difficult to find specific information like what you posted. Honestly, when looking at those pictures, the third option looks like what I'm looking for. This is a small town and I live within a mile of my work, a grocery store, downtown, etc. My Allant is great for getting me around here, so I feel like a commuter would overlap that functionality. And I don't see myself doing a lot of fully-loaded, up-hill overnighters until I'm in better shape and more experienced.

So I think I might go with CKS' original suggestion and look into getting a 2.1. Thanks everyone!
Then shed yourself free of all the extra weight, and enjoy!

Originally Posted by sdoowe
ETA. Missed some posts while I was typing. So at what point do I start looking at component lists? Or is that something only the pros really care about?
When you begin to be concerned more about what other people think of your ride when they take a magnifying glass to it, than you do about just getting out and riding.
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Old 06-18-11, 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by sdoowe
the real differences between say a $1000 bike and a $5000 bike?
For novices like you, there is no measurable difference if any at all.
In fact ... a roadbike with narrow racing tires might actually make you slower, depending on your average speed.

People constantly overestimate the importance of the bike itself for performance.
When I ride my hybrid ... I pass roadies all the time ... it isn't the bike that makes you fast.
If you wanna go fast:
1) Assume an aerodynamic position that is still comfortable enough for you to cope with ... in other words: lower your handlebar and get an aerobar.
2) HTFU and pedal harder.

These two factors will get you 50% speed increase or much more.
All the rest is vastly inferior and costs many times more ... basicly you'd be throwing your money away.

Any bike over $1500 is completely wasted on anyone not trying to win a race.

Last edited by AdelaaR; 06-18-11 at 03:44 AM. Reason: a
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Old 06-18-11, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by AdelaaR
For novices like you, there is no measurable difference if any at all.
In fact ... a roadbike with narrow racing tires might actually make you slower, depending on your average speed.

People constantly overestimate the importance of the bike itself for performance.
When I ride my hybrid ... I pass roadies all the time ... it isn't the bike that makes you fast.
If you wanna go fast:
1) Assume an aerodynamic position that is still comfortable enough for you to cope with ... in other words: lower your handlebar and get an aerobar.
2) HTFU and pedal harder.

These two factors will get you 50% speed increase or much more.
All the rest is vastly inferior and costs many times more ... basicly you'd be throwing your money away.

Any bike over $1500 is completely wasted on anyone not trying to win a race.
Incorrect. I ride with many people who have bikes that cost a lot more than $1500. They really like their bikes and ride them that much more because they've invested in something they really want to ride. My advice is to get the bike you WANT. You will ride it more than one you settle for.
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Old 06-18-11, 10:38 AM
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I've seen more madones with 8 miles on them for sell than 2.x's, where 1.x's are for sell EVERYWHERE. Might be a testament to something.

The bike market is way overpriced, go used.
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Old 06-18-11, 10:49 AM
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A 520 is not a dedicated road bike, it's a touring bike and thus it would be heavier so it can handle heavy touring loads. The Trek 520 DOES give you eyelets for both panniers and fenders on both front and rear. So if your wanting that kind of versatility then the Trek is a good bike that is relative inexpensive as is the Fuji touring bike, both of which are comparable.

Bikedirect.com has some great bikes that would cost you less then the Trek. They have the Motebecain Gran Turismo for $700 including free shipping to the lower 48 states that compares with the Trek at $1300 to $1400! https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...an_turismo.htm

Or if your really wanting a nicer bike then those Bikes Direct has a Motobecane Fantom Cross PRO Titanium Cyclocross Bike that is lighter then either of the bikes I mentioned earlier, made of titanium which will never rust or corrode and is hardier in accidents then any other material. This Cross bike is different then the touring bikes in that it's more for light touring with eyelets in the rear for panniers and fenders but not in the front. This bike retails for $1700 including shipping. https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/..._pro_ti_xi.htm

Any bike being shipped by anybody will require some assembly and adjusting, if your unsure on how to do that stuff just take it to an LBS and usually for around $75 to $125 they will do it for you. And you can sweeten the deal for the LBS by buying water bottles and cages, seat bag with some tire tools, patches, spare tube, and a pump to get you going.

Last edited by rekmeyata; 06-18-11 at 10:52 AM.
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Old 06-18-11, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by sd790
Incorrect. I ride with many people who have bikes that cost a lot more than $1500. They really like their bikes and ride them that much more because they've invested in something they really want to ride. My advice is to get the bike you WANT. You will ride it more than one you settle for.
What you are saying here proves my point.
People WANT expensive bikes ... but they do not need them and have no added benefit from them.
Yet they will convince themselves that they need them because they WANT them so much
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Old 06-18-11, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by AdelaaR
What you are saying here proves my point.
People WANT expensive bikes ... but they do not need them and have no added benefit from them.
Yet they will convince themselves that they need them because they WANT them so much
Actually this is true, it's about the bling factor which Americans are known for wanting. I can't tell you how many people I've passed by riding multi thousand dollar CF bikes while riding just an old steel bike. I'm not against a person who wants to spend the money to do so, it's their money, but that doesn't change the facts that they really don't NEED an expensive bike...they just WANT one. Then after they get what they want, about 3 months go by and the expensive bike becomes an expensive piece of garage art where it will set for untold number of years.
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Old 06-18-11, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by sd790
Incorrect. I ride with many people who have bikes that cost a lot more than $1500. They really like their bikes and ride them that much more because they've invested in something they really want to ride. My advice is to get the bike you WANT. You will ride it more than one you settle for.
One problem with $5000 bikes is that people who can't afford them think that's what they have to buy.

Last edited by njkayaker; 06-18-11 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 06-18-11, 02:26 PM
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Jens voigt on a 2009 racebike versus some random guy on a 99 year old bike:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QEju...layer_embedded
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Old 06-18-11, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by njkayaker
One problem with $5000 bikes is that people who can't afford them think that's what they have to buy.
Yup, then they charge up their credit card for the bike and only use the bike for 3 months...great idea.
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Old 06-18-11, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by AdelaaR
Jens voigt on a 2009 racebike versus some random guy on a 99 year old bike:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QEju...layer_embedded
Just goes to show you, you can have the best technologically advance bike in the world and still loose to an old gas pipe low tech bike built a 100 years ago. It's too bad they didn't switch riders after the first race and reran it. But there is a point to all of that.
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Old 06-18-11, 03:30 PM
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I don't know that I can really add anything here. It sounds like the OP is covered for errands with his hybrid bike. If he has the money and wants a Madone, I'd say go for it, provided it gets a lot of use. One thing I will say is that a bicycle designed for racing isn't going to be comfortable going slow and just meandering around the neighborhood. So if you feel like you're really going to be riding a ton, and have the money, go for it! I have a 5.1 and am by no means a racer (though I may at some point wish to give it a shot). It's a fun bike, but I try to ride every day (weather permitting) and I try to ride hard most of the days. Money wasn't an issue, so I figured why not.

Also you might call some of the bike shops farther away and see if they can't set aside some other brands for you to try and borrow someone's car and go check out some different brands.

Just got my wife a Specialized because we didn't like any of the Trek's in the same price range. So don't limit yourself to just Trek.

Oh, and as the others have said, and I'll echo, don't worry about the specs as much. If it were me and I had the money I'd probably look for a 105 in the Shimano group. You won't get any real benefit with the Ultegra or Dura-Ace other than weight. If you're thinking Madone though you won't have to look at that at all, the Madone's are all equipped with good stuff.

I also agree with the poster who said to work on the bike yourself. It's a great way to learn about the different components and the differences in brands and levels. It isn't really hard at all, in fact I find it quite easy in comparison to working on the cars (which I also do myself when I can).

Last edited by ErichM; 06-18-11 at 03:36 PM.
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