Best way to move cleats to new shoes
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Best way to move cleats to new shoes
Is there a trick to keeping your cleat in the same position when you transfer them to new shoes? Would marking the cleat where the screws are make any sense? I'm going from a Pearl Izumi shoe to a Sidi. My Peals have markings on the soles but obviously that doesn't help much.
#2
Artificial Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Cyberspace
Posts: 7,163
Bikes: Retrospec Judd, Dahon Boardwalk, Specialized Langster
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6730 Post(s)
Liked 5,441 Times
in
3,198 Posts
Sidis have a Memory Hole for Looks...
So next time...
So next time...
__________________
#3
shedding fat
Going from one type of shoe to another is going to be nearly impossible to keep in the same spot. Cleat position is one of those things that I personally think show be revisited a few times here and there, and this sounds like a great time to do that with a fitter. Just tell them you wanna get your cleats adjusted to the new shows. Bring your old shoes with the cleats on them before removing them.
__________________
Arguing with ignorant people is an exercise in futility. They will bring you down to their level and once there they will beat you with their overwhelming experience.
Arguing with ignorant people is an exercise in futility. They will bring you down to their level and once there they will beat you with their overwhelming experience.
#5
Extra Medium Member
Yeah, that can be a tricky one. Especially if your going to a shoe with a different sole. I'd say marking your cleats is a very good idea. I also use a straight edge to get the cleat as parallel to the center line of the shoe as possible.
__________________
Droping the hamer since '86
Droping the hamer since '86
#6
Artificial Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Cyberspace
Posts: 7,163
Bikes: Retrospec Judd, Dahon Boardwalk, Specialized Langster
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6730 Post(s)
Liked 5,441 Times
in
3,198 Posts
What's your pedal system?
__________________
#8
Artificial Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Cyberspace
Posts: 7,163
Bikes: Retrospec Judd, Dahon Boardwalk, Specialized Langster
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6730 Post(s)
Liked 5,441 Times
in
3,198 Posts
I'm just about to have to figure this out myself.
My current shoes are about fifteen years old (two pairs of Shimanos I rotated) and I've got a pair of Sidis on the way I'm hoping are gonna fit.
My first Look cleats were fixed- no rotation and the LBS had this fitting device that was used to get them set for my stroke. This was on a pair of Nike road shoes if you can imagine such a thing. When the floating cleats came out it seemed the LBS's just quit fitting the things.
I used a Sharpie to outline the old Delta cleats on the Nikes and when the Nikes were worn out I spent a bit of time trying to replicate the placement on the new shoes. As I remember I got pretty close but had to tweak it a couple of times.
The Keos threw me a little because the shape was different but they did add a spindle mark which helped.
Good Luck.
My current shoes are about fifteen years old (two pairs of Shimanos I rotated) and I've got a pair of Sidis on the way I'm hoping are gonna fit.
My first Look cleats were fixed- no rotation and the LBS had this fitting device that was used to get them set for my stroke. This was on a pair of Nike road shoes if you can imagine such a thing. When the floating cleats came out it seemed the LBS's just quit fitting the things.
I used a Sharpie to outline the old Delta cleats on the Nikes and when the Nikes were worn out I spent a bit of time trying to replicate the placement on the new shoes. As I remember I got pretty close but had to tweak it a couple of times.
The Keos threw me a little because the shape was different but they did add a spindle mark which helped.
Good Luck.
__________________
#9
meow
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Hint: check out my BF name
Posts: 5,831
Bikes: 2016 Parlee Altum, 2013 Cannondale Super Six Evo Hi Mod Di2 only, 2011 Cannondale Super Six, Dura Ace 7800, 2007 Cannondale System Six Dura Ace 7800, 1992 Bridgestone RB-1, MB-2, MB-3, MB-5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
It can be a little tricky and might require using feel/trial and error in getting set the way you like. You can certainly get it close, say, within a mm or 2 of good. Then you go with feel and adjust. Fitter help is not a crazy idea at all.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 3,653
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I can't find the stupid thing now, but just a day or two ago I saw a tool that was a cleat jig. It was basically a sheet of plastic with two holes for the cleats and a then a grid of lines and measurements. You loosen the cleat screws each cleat moves, put them in the hole, then set up the shoe so it is in the right spot. I can't for the life of me remember what it was called, but such a thing exists, and/or wouldn't be too difficult to replicate on your own. It was like $25.
#11
shedding fat
Mavic has such a tool, but I'm not sure you could use it to replicate across 2 different shoes and different sole shapes.
__________________
Arguing with ignorant people is an exercise in futility. They will bring you down to their level and once there they will beat you with their overwhelming experience.
Arguing with ignorant people is an exercise in futility. They will bring you down to their level and once there they will beat you with their overwhelming experience.
#12
Portland Fred
Easiest thing to do is simply make your best guess and adjust if necessary with the multitool you carry at all times anyway.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: On yer left
Posts: 1,646
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
1. Duct tape laser pointers to your shoes.
2. Ride your bike on your indoor trainer.
3. Mark the path of your feet as you pedal.
4. Remove your old cleats.
5. Never mind.
2. Ride your bike on your indoor trainer.
3. Mark the path of your feet as you pedal.
4. Remove your old cleats.
5. Never mind.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 117
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Boone, North Carolina
Posts: 5,094
Bikes: 2009 Cannondale CAAD9-6 2014 Trek Domaine 5.9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#16
meow
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Hint: check out my BF name
Posts: 5,831
Bikes: 2016 Parlee Altum, 2013 Cannondale Super Six Evo Hi Mod Di2 only, 2011 Cannondale Super Six, Dura Ace 7800, 2007 Cannondale System Six Dura Ace 7800, 1992 Bridgestone RB-1, MB-2, MB-3, MB-5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
haha kenji!
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,859
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Mark in the old shoe where the ball if the feet is (side if the shoe) using a caliper, mark the ball of the foot in the new shoe now.
If you are using look pedals, those have a line in the back, now measure from the line to the ball of the foot in the old shoe. Take the cleat and put it in the new shoe, use the last distance to position the cleat in the new shoe. At least this way u will have the cleats around the same distance from the ball of the foot in the new shoe, now u need to mimic the angles if you have cleats angled or something.
Good luck.
If you are using look pedals, those have a line in the back, now measure from the line to the ball of the foot in the old shoe. Take the cleat and put it in the new shoe, use the last distance to position the cleat in the new shoe. At least this way u will have the cleats around the same distance from the ball of the foot in the new shoe, now u need to mimic the angles if you have cleats angled or something.
Good luck.
#21
Senior Member
Ooo. Reptilianly awesome!
Trial and error is the best thing here. Start fresh, place the cleats on the Sidi's, then adjust from there. You can drive yourself crazy trying to be exact. Just note any differences in placement on your old shoes between left and right, and try and duplicate those differences on the new shoes. Know what I mean?
Trial and error is the best thing here. Start fresh, place the cleats on the Sidi's, then adjust from there. You can drive yourself crazy trying to be exact. Just note any differences in placement on your old shoes between left and right, and try and duplicate those differences on the new shoes. Know what I mean?
__________________
'11 Time NXR Instinct / '79 Paris Sport by Moulton
'11 Time NXR Instinct / '79 Paris Sport by Moulton
#23
moth -----> flame
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 5,916
Bikes: 11 CAAD 10-4, 07 Specialized Roubaix Comp, 98 Peugeot Horizon
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Beyond the obvious comment of unscrew cleat from old shoe and reattach to new shoe...I was thinking about this, after doing something similar:
The other parameter I tried to gauge was the angle and positioning of the cleat relative to the heel-to-toe axis of the shoe. I don't have any fancy-schmancy techniques for this beyond holding the shoe up to eye level and trying to observe where the tip of the cleat points while looking straight down the sole of the shoe from the heel to the mid point of the toe box. That should give you a sense of how much toe-in/toe-out angle you currently run and whether you have you cleats closer to or further away from the pedal spindle.
Mark in the old shoe where the ball if the feet is (side if the shoe) using a caliper, mark the ball of the foot in the new shoe now.
If you are using look pedals, those have a line in the back, now measure from the line to the ball of the foot in the old shoe. Take the cleat and put it in the new shoe, use the last distance to position the cleat in the new shoe. At least this way u will have the cleats around the same distance from the ball of the foot in the new shoe, now u need to mimic the angles if you have cleats angled or something.
Good luck.
If you are using look pedals, those have a line in the back, now measure from the line to the ball of the foot in the old shoe. Take the cleat and put it in the new shoe, use the last distance to position the cleat in the new shoe. At least this way u will have the cleats around the same distance from the ball of the foot in the new shoe, now u need to mimic the angles if you have cleats angled or something.
Good luck.
__________________
BF, in a nutshell
BF, in a nutshell
#24
Senior Member
Most likely, when you install the cleats on the new shoes, and click in on a trainer, you will immediately notice if you need to adjust the cleats, or, one cleat.
__________________
'11 Time NXR Instinct / '79 Paris Sport by Moulton
'11 Time NXR Instinct / '79 Paris Sport by Moulton
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 809
Bikes: 2010 Felt F5, 2010 Dawes SST-AL
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
maybe it's just me but it doesn't seem that measuring the old shoe, measuring the new shoe will do you any good unless the 2 shoes have identical soles.
further, AIRC, the look memory tabs are intended for replacing cleats, not shoes.
+1 for test and adjust but if your LBS has the digital system, that seems to be the easiest. One of the shops here in Syracuse has one and I think they charge something like $30 bucks for it if you don't buy the equipment (pedals or shoes) from them and free if you do so if the shop you bought from doesn't have the system, maybe call around?
further, AIRC, the look memory tabs are intended for replacing cleats, not shoes.
+1 for test and adjust but if your LBS has the digital system, that seems to be the easiest. One of the shops here in Syracuse has one and I think they charge something like $30 bucks for it if you don't buy the equipment (pedals or shoes) from them and free if you do so if the shop you bought from doesn't have the system, maybe call around?