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Originally Posted by dissident
(Post 12998235)
excellent pictures. This thread I linked too has really helped me out, but in the process of doing what has been suggested I find I now need a longer stem on my comfort oriented Felt Z85 so I've ordered one. I didn't think I'd want to be low as a bike noob, but it seemed to really increase power naturally and without pain.. but with the need suddenly of a longer stem.. when in position I can see the hubs in front of the handlebars and feel like I need more stem length... perhaps because of the way that particular comfort frame is designed. Anywho going from 110 to 130 or 140 and reevaluating. There seems to be more then ample room to turn a comfort bike into an aggressive one and vice versa as a bike noob. Once I figure out what I really like, if what I like trends towards being lower and more aero, I'll keep that in mind should the time come to upgrade. That's a ways off yet though. My LBS wasn't all that helpful in all honesty. But hey the first bike is always a learning experience. I'd never have wanted the aggressive riding bike at the time
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...tion-Discovery Sounds more like you've got the wrong sized frame for your body size/proportions. |
compact handlebar and try riding without padded gloves or no gloves
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Originally Posted by Werkin
(Post 13311971)
I prefer 46cm width, which narrows options even further in 31.8 clamp size. I've been using this bar recently http://www.syntace.com/index.cfm?pid=3&pk=1838. The 100mm reach XL has more room for wide hands than continuous bend compact bars. It is not available from US vendors at this time.
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Great thread. I'm new to riding and had bad numbness this morning. Will try some of the tips here. Great info.
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Great thread. I'm new to riding and had bad numbness this morning. Will try some of the tips here. Great info. |
For what its worth, I tried many things to reduce numb hands/fingers and it turned out to be my gloves causing the problem.
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Thank you so much for your detailed and exhasustive post. With my Giant-Sedona (17 years old) but good durable bike, I definately need to change hadlebars. It has the short straight out, big tappered bars and they added another pair which branches forward about 3-4 in. and then parallels the original (probably for standing on pedal maneuvers) but none that go way out so you can lay down and stop making a sail out of your body. This would help on relieving weight pressure and I actually find it better to slide back on my seat significantly to get the most power out of my pedaling, so for me a set back could have a two fold benefit. My hands get so numb I lose feeling and can't maintain a hold of bars or shift gears and that is with moving hands around constanly and putting them down at side periodically and shaking them out.
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i have numbness only on my left hand, usually in my fingers going towards my pinky. i thought maybe it was from my dislocated shoulder healing. i will switch up during the ride but it can creep up in under 20 miles easily. i was properly fitted at time of purchase and have not changed any of those specs but will talk to LBS again.
high fives to DannoXYZ for that post! |
Great thread, esp. post by DannoXYZ.:thumb:
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I am somewhat of an ultra distance rider so I use to get hand numbness on some of ultra rando rides like 400k 600k and 1200k rides which sometimes left my hands numb for a couple of days after. This is what I did that helped some. Double wrapped my handlebars or there is a new wrap out there that is more padded that helps and deaden the tires in the front end. I run 120 - 125 psi in the rear and only 100 - 105 psi up front. It helps take some of the road vibration out. You can also move your hands around a lot more on the bars and I go to the middle on climbs and other times during the ride.
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I just had my Trek 56cm frame replaced under warranty for breakage. They sent me a 58cm. I have no idea why, but now no hand numbness, and saddle discomfort is pretty much all gone. The rest of the equipment (gloves, clothes, components etc) all remained the same ((shrugs))
Matt |
Another trick is when riding with your hands on the top of the bar, make sure that your thumbs go under the bar, and not rest on top alongside your hand. This reduces pressure on the nerve, and helps reduce numbness.
I discovered quite by accident, as I am running a flat bar on my folder. I have an 11 speed kit, and shift up and down regularly as I ride. I noticed that my right hand was getting numb, and my left hand was not. The difference was entirely because I was keeping my thumb on top of the bar to actuate the shifter. After making a conscious effort to keep both hands in the same position as much as possible, my right hand is no longer getting numb. |
Originally Posted by awesomeame
(Post 19800574)
I just had my Trek 56cm frame replaced under warranty for breakage. They sent me a 58cm. I have no idea why, but now no hand numbness, and saddle discomfort is pretty much all gone. The rest of the equipment (gloves, clothes, components etc) all remained the same ((shrugs))
Matt That probably means you were riding on too short of a frame before but if it works stick with it.:lol: Zman |
That sound like a possible carpal tunnel, you might want to get that checked. Also, PMFT devices help with that.
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Originally Posted by lindaket
(Post 22148727)
That sound like a possible carpal tunnel, you might want to get that checked. Also, PMFT devices help with that.
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Probably the one that had their hands amputated since they didn't get the information till 10 years later.
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Zombies don't suffer from carpal tunnel
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Originally Posted by lindaket
(Post 22148727)
That sound like a possible carpal tunnel, you might want to get that checked. Also, PMFT devices help with that.
Wrong thread. Sorry. Go on about your business. |
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