10-speed handlebars?
 

I was having some work done at one of the LBS's I use for quick work. They wrapped my new-to-me handlebars (FSA Omega Compact) and ended up putting one shifter higher than the other (didn't realize this until I was out on the road and my multi-tool could not reach the bolt needed to move the shifter), so I took it back to them and told them to align the shifters properly. They did so, and told me that things might not fit right because my handlebars are designed for 10 speed shifters. Does such a thing exist? Sounded like a dumb excuse to me, but I wanted to double-check with the 41 :)

Never heard of it. But I'll follow this thread. I'm curious now.

The LBS is mostly BS. Must be one of those with "quirky" employees.

That's just silly.

But because I want to know I checked their website...no mention of 10 speed setup...but I was thoroughly confused by these drawings in the Omega installation guide.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=211963

This must be one of those "What's different" tests...for the life of me, I don't see what's different in the "Not Recommended" pictures. Anybody?

I have got bars from a 5 speed bike on my 10 speed, but back in the day those 5 speeds were called 10 speeds if the had a double, so maybe at the end of the day it all works out. Then again, my bike was originally a 30 speed and is now a compact 20 speed. I think I can keep going in circles with this

That makes no sense. Shifters have a clamp that tightens or loosens according to the width of the handlebars. The only issue I could ever see is with reach, which can be affected by the amount of curve or flat area on the rounded part of the bars (classic vs. ergo vs. anatomic). I think that mechanic was messing with you.

Things might not fit right because the shop didn't want to unwrap the handlebar tape, reposition the cables, and rewrap the bar tape. Instead, they just forced the brifter into the desired position and now you have a cable trying to poke out. There are few things I let my LBS do to my bike, and for a reason.

Two different mechanics at this shop told me I had 10 speed handlebars. I managed not to giggle, nodded, and left after they corrected their error with the shifters. Like I said, just wanted to make sure that they were BS'ing me instead of me not knowing something :)

Certain bars are designed to work better with certain shifters. That part is true. But, they still work with other shifters.

Still, that is no excuse for failing to align the shifters. The set ups are symmetrical and it is just laziness on the shop to not align them correctly.

The drawings are the same, but the angles marked are not.

They're probably talking about the difference in shape of Shimano shifters.

New:
http://www.fatbirds.co.uk/images/Shi...uble_thumb.jpg

Old:
http://www.roadbikereview.com/Channe...duct_28081.jpg

The new shifter shape is available for 105 and above, so ten speed only. For Tiagra and below the old shape is still used, and those shifters come in eight and nine speeds.

Fixed.

And you are correct. I really wouldn't want someone who'd said something like that working on my bike.

I'm still trying to find that left-handed monkey wrench my dad asked me to get when I was a teenager.

Did they also recommend to change your headlight fluid too while you were waiting?

It would make sense that brands would work well together - I recall Campy Centaur fitting onto a pair of Deda bars and making a really comfy perch, and I now have Pro bars with Shimano 10sp. Since they're made by the same company I'd expect them to work well together. But I also have 8sp shifters on the same Deda bars and they fit fine.
Guys who work in shops have to endure crushing boredom sitting round while everyone else is working their 9 to 5. They're probably one - upping each other seeing who can get away with the best BS for fun. They'll be dining out on that for months. About 3 years ago the only thing I managed to sell on a particularly quiet day was a bottle of chain oil for $11.90. That became a synonym for cr*ppy sales days and I still get grief for it.

Speaking of made up nonsense, I read that you need to buy a new fork every year:

You need to take some things with a grain of salt.

:roflmao2: Ah, the good ol' rites of passage :thumb:

You know those things take a metric crescent wrench, right?

Since frame failure will also cause a crash, presumably this should also be swapped out after 4-5K miles.

Everyone can send me their forks and frames, and I will see to it that these things are properly disposed of.

Yeah well all I want to kno is how to get my little ticker on the signature line so i can have a cool track of my wieght loss.

The first "not recommended" picture is indicating the bars being rolled up too far (ie, the bottom of he bar should moved to be more horizontal to < 5').

The second "not recommended" is indicating the brake stalks being too far down the bar (ie, they need to be moved up so that the tips of the levers is 3-5 cm higher like in the "recommended" picture).

I think the ~0' indication at the right on the second "not recommended" is a mistake: it should be ~ 0 cm (to the 3-5cm in the "recommended" picture).

Yes, except the angle at the right of the second "not recommended" is, I believe, a mistake (it should be ~ 0 cm to correspond to the 3-5cm in the "recommended" picture).

That's very generous of you. And, thanks for pointing out that the frame will be just as dangerous.

What shop was this? I'll make a note to avoid it.

Sent you a PM.

Don't forget the wheels. Since they take the most abuse, they should be changed twice as often. Naturally, I'm also willing to help dispose of those.

I have an Ultegra 6700 group. My brake levers are carbon fiber. Obviously, after several thousand miles of not even dropping the bike, these need to be replaced too. But can I just replace the levers, or do I need to send you the entire shifters?