Frame Build
09-22-11 | 05:58 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,018
Likes: 1
From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2018 Lynskey R 260 Disc; 2008 Trek 4.7 Madone; 2017 Framed Minnesota 3.0 Fat Bike; 1984 Nishiki International
Frame Build
How difficult is it (to do it right)? Wondering about it for a future bike but don't want to get into it if I am likely to eff it up. I am moderately mechanically inclined but do a lousy job with derailleur adjustments. 
09-22-11 | 06:10 AM
#2
Throw the stick!!!!
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 18,150
Likes: 93
From: Charleston, WV
Bikes: GMC Denali
Are you talking about building a frame or building up a bike (purchasing a frameset)? If building a frame it is pretty difficult from what I understand. Building up a bike isn't too bad, just takes a couple hours (or a few), some tools, and a little searching on the net.
__________________
I may be fat but I'm slow enough to make up for it.
09-22-11 | 07:41 AM
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, ON
Much more expensive once you realize certain specialty bike tools that are required (bottom bracket / headset tools, torque wrenches for carbon, etc.). It is quite satisfying to build up your bike and sets you up to be your own mechanic once all is said and done (I have built up all my bikes). If you have the time, dedication and money, go for it.
09-22-11 | 07:57 AM
#4
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,783
Likes: 5
From: NYC
Bikes: Felt AR1, Cervelo S2
Oh man, it's so easy and so rewarding.
You can build 99% of the bike with a mini multitool.
All the info you need is free on the Internet, the special tools you need are cheap, and you end up with exactly the bike you want.
Also, you will then no longer need a bike shop for "tune ups."
You can build 99% of the bike with a mini multitool.
All the info you need is free on the Internet, the special tools you need are cheap, and you end up with exactly the bike you want.
Also, you will then no longer need a bike shop for "tune ups."
09-22-11 | 08:03 AM
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,237
Likes: 92
From: Awesome, Austin, TX
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix, Interloc Impala, ParkPre Image C6
+1 to previous 2 posts above. The only thing I go to the LBS for are small parts and the occassional tube or patch kit.
__________________
2014 Specialized Roubaix2003 Interloc Impala2007 ParkPre Image C6 (RIP)
2014 Specialized Roubaix2003 Interloc Impala2007 ParkPre Image C6 (RIP)
09-22-11 | 08:39 AM
#6
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,783
Likes: 5
From: NYC
Bikes: Felt AR1, Cervelo S2
As for the RD derailleur adjustments - check out www.youtube.com/sramtech - the video titled "Road Derailleurs"
Here's how you do it, quoting myself:
Here's how you do it, quoting myself:
Don't just screw around with the barrel adjuster.
Here's what you do:
first, flip the bike over.
(1) shift to the smallest cog.
(2) release the cable.
(3) turn the barrel adjuster so it's all the way in (e.g. minimum tension), then one click out.
(4) using pliers, pull the cable tight (e.g. pre-tension) and then tighten the cable fixing bolt (5-7nm)
(5) shift one cog up. (the chain won't go, don't worry).
(6) add tension to the barrel adjuster until it shifts up to the next cog, then another ~4 clicks.
(7) look closely at where the chain is sitting between the cogs (the bike is flipped over, so you're looking at the bottom of the cassette). it should be sitting so there's equal space between the cog below and the cog above. use the barrel adjuster to add or release tension until it's centered.
(8) shift through the cassette. shifts should be instant, and there should be no rhythmic clicking. check that the chain is centered on each cog.
easy-peasy.
Here's what you do:
first, flip the bike over.
(1) shift to the smallest cog.
(2) release the cable.
(3) turn the barrel adjuster so it's all the way in (e.g. minimum tension), then one click out.
(4) using pliers, pull the cable tight (e.g. pre-tension) and then tighten the cable fixing bolt (5-7nm)
(5) shift one cog up. (the chain won't go, don't worry).
(6) add tension to the barrel adjuster until it shifts up to the next cog, then another ~4 clicks.
(7) look closely at where the chain is sitting between the cogs (the bike is flipped over, so you're looking at the bottom of the cassette). it should be sitting so there's equal space between the cog below and the cog above. use the barrel adjuster to add or release tension until it's centered.
(8) shift through the cassette. shifts should be instant, and there should be no rhythmic clicking. check that the chain is centered on each cog.
easy-peasy.
09-22-11 | 08:41 AM
#7
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,018
Likes: 1
From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2018 Lynskey R 260 Disc; 2008 Trek 4.7 Madone; 2017 Framed Minnesota 3.0 Fat Bike; 1984 Nishiki International
Building up a bike from a purchased frame. Not building a frame. definitely no interest in trying that. Thanks.
09-22-11 | 08:50 AM
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 222
From: Sugar Land, TX
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix SL8
Same here. I'll visit the LBS for new cleats or for new derailleur/brake cables when needed. The bottom bracket is probably the only part of the bike where a specific tool is needed. Everything else, as Inertianinja has mentioned can be installed via a bike multi-tool or with a set of metric hex keys.
Here's a tip: if you don't have torque wrenches on hand, visit AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts, or any automotive retail store that rents out specialty tools. Most of them require a deposit, usually $50 but you're refunded the full amount when you return the tool(s).
Here's a tip: if you don't have torque wrenches on hand, visit AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts, or any automotive retail store that rents out specialty tools. Most of them require a deposit, usually $50 but you're refunded the full amount when you return the tool(s).
09-22-11 | 03:32 PM
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,018
Likes: 1
From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2018 Lynskey R 260 Disc; 2008 Trek 4.7 Madone; 2017 Framed Minnesota 3.0 Fat Bike; 1984 Nishiki International
As for the RD derailleur adjustments - check out www.youtube.com/sramtech - the video titled "Road Derailleurs"
Here's how you do it, quoting myself:
Here's how you do it, quoting myself:
09-22-11 | 03:35 PM
#10
Should Be More Popular
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 46,236
Likes: 11,777
From: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
As long as you have the right tools, I say go for it.
I am about to start on a winter build project. I am going to ask my LBS to install the headset and BB, mainly because I don't have a headset press or the tools to install a BB correctly....but everything else I am going to do myself.
You may wish to ask your LBS to at least install the headset/fork unless the frame already has it installed.
I am about to start on a winter build project. I am going to ask my LBS to install the headset and BB, mainly because I don't have a headset press or the tools to install a BB correctly....but everything else I am going to do myself.
You may wish to ask your LBS to at least install the headset/fork unless the frame already has it installed.
09-23-11 | 07:36 AM
#11
Unique Vintage Steel
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 287
From: Allen, TX
Bikes: Kirk Frameworks JKS-C, Serotta Nova, Gazelle AB-Frame, Fuji Team Issue, Surly Straggler
As long as you have the right tools, I say go for it.
I am about to start on a winter build project. I am going to ask my LBS to install the headset and BB, mainly because I don't have a headset press or the tools to install a BB correctly....but everything else I am going to do myself.
You may wish to ask your LBS to at least install the headset/fork unless the frame already has it installed.
I am about to start on a winter build project. I am going to ask my LBS to install the headset and BB, mainly because I don't have a headset press or the tools to install a BB correctly....but everything else I am going to do myself.
You may wish to ask your LBS to at least install the headset/fork unless the frame already has it installed.
I've done most of my own builds, maintenance, etc since I started riding (beginning with a cheap old Schwinn 10sp helped that initial learning curve, that is till the headset ended up being loose BB without a carrier). The only thing I go to the LBS for any more is headsets on the steel frames since I don't have a press or good removal tools, and the occasional chasing of BB threads on old frames during the initial build.
