Best Roof Rack
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#153
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If it's the PR3100, then it's worth the wait. I bought one from England because it's not available here yet, and I'm having it delivered by a co-worker sometime soon (I hope). You can see it here:
https://www.whispbar.eu/accessories/cycle
https://www.whispbar.eu/accessories/cycle
#154
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I recently bought two Thule Criterium Racks. I figured I'll only have one carbon bike (**which I'll still mount on the 517 fork mount carrier**) so I wanted to try out the whole bike carrier.
I've had the criteriums for about a week and here's my list of Pros/Cons compared to the 517 Thule Fork Mounted racks I had on previously
Pros:
- The whole bike rack is super convenient especially when getting my wife's near 30 pound steel mixte up on the roof. It takes only a minute to open the rim straps and pull up the arm then lift the bike and put it in and lock it down.


- Conversely it only takes a minute to take the bike off the rack and ride off.
- The criterium has quick release clamps to enable you to slide the racks laterally on the rails for quick adustments and also making room for other things (like a 3rd or 4th rack, storage container, kayak rack, skis rack, ect).
Cons:
-Compared to the fork mounted racks the criterium is a lot more complicated and heavy. The whole setup is near 30lbs. (rack rails, and 2 bike carriers). Its easy enough to lift the whole thing off and port away but its a lot more heavy compared to the simple 517 fork mounts.
- while the downtube clamp is very strong and secure - there's still movement from the front wheels even when strapped down. its still secure,mind you, but compare that to the total lockdown of the fork mounted racks.
- I installed an airfoil (yakima windjammer) onto my square Thule rails - this got rid of the low howl that would happen at speeds above 40mph. The Criteriums create a high pitch whistle thats barely audible, but still there (even with the previously installed airfoil). I have to figure out whats causing it (probably the arms - maybe wrapping a thin rope around the arms will get rid of the whistle).
- I was concerned about the stress of the downtube clamp especially with a carbon fiber large diameter thin walled frame. Especially with constant little movements from the front wheel when up to speed. I still have only used it with my steel bikes for now.
- There was definite scratching of the downtube with the cables. After a quick trip from Brooklyn to Sandy Hook NJ this weekend I took off the bikes and saw this the next day:





**I can only imagine what the damage would be with a carbon frame and the exposed cables rubbing down past the paint into the raw carbon.**
I won't though. I bought some pipe insulation at home depot (its less than $2.00 for 8ft of the stuff) and fashioned some protectors.


- another con is actually having to remember putting the downtube protectors on before lifting the bikes into the racks to avoid cable rub damage.
- you have to have two separate locks (one to lockdown the rack onto the rails, and another to lock the bike). Compare that to the one lock that locks both the bike and rack onto the rails of the Thule 517.
I bought a thule 8 pack lock core set when I bought the racks back last summer so I had extras (but it starts to get expensive when you factor in the cost of the locks).
- lastly I understand that there is more wind resistance (equals less MPG) compared to the fork mounts. My quick estimate is that its only 1-2mpg less compared to the fork mounts. My car was getting about 39-43mpg highway 28-32city and with the fork mounts and bikes 34-38mpg. I still have had only two trips with the criteriums hopefully there's no difference, but I'll compute the average MPGs with the criteriums when I have more trips/data.
I've had the criteriums for about a week and here's my list of Pros/Cons compared to the 517 Thule Fork Mounted racks I had on previously
Pros:
- The whole bike rack is super convenient especially when getting my wife's near 30 pound steel mixte up on the roof. It takes only a minute to open the rim straps and pull up the arm then lift the bike and put it in and lock it down.


- Conversely it only takes a minute to take the bike off the rack and ride off.
- The criterium has quick release clamps to enable you to slide the racks laterally on the rails for quick adustments and also making room for other things (like a 3rd or 4th rack, storage container, kayak rack, skis rack, ect).
Cons:
-Compared to the fork mounted racks the criterium is a lot more complicated and heavy. The whole setup is near 30lbs. (rack rails, and 2 bike carriers). Its easy enough to lift the whole thing off and port away but its a lot more heavy compared to the simple 517 fork mounts.
- while the downtube clamp is very strong and secure - there's still movement from the front wheels even when strapped down. its still secure,mind you, but compare that to the total lockdown of the fork mounted racks.
- I installed an airfoil (yakima windjammer) onto my square Thule rails - this got rid of the low howl that would happen at speeds above 40mph. The Criteriums create a high pitch whistle thats barely audible, but still there (even with the previously installed airfoil). I have to figure out whats causing it (probably the arms - maybe wrapping a thin rope around the arms will get rid of the whistle).
- I was concerned about the stress of the downtube clamp especially with a carbon fiber large diameter thin walled frame. Especially with constant little movements from the front wheel when up to speed. I still have only used it with my steel bikes for now.
- There was definite scratching of the downtube with the cables. After a quick trip from Brooklyn to Sandy Hook NJ this weekend I took off the bikes and saw this the next day:





**I can only imagine what the damage would be with a carbon frame and the exposed cables rubbing down past the paint into the raw carbon.**
I won't though. I bought some pipe insulation at home depot (its less than $2.00 for 8ft of the stuff) and fashioned some protectors.


- another con is actually having to remember putting the downtube protectors on before lifting the bikes into the racks to avoid cable rub damage.
- you have to have two separate locks (one to lockdown the rack onto the rails, and another to lock the bike). Compare that to the one lock that locks both the bike and rack onto the rails of the Thule 517.
I bought a thule 8 pack lock core set when I bought the racks back last summer so I had extras (but it starts to get expensive when you factor in the cost of the locks).
- lastly I understand that there is more wind resistance (equals less MPG) compared to the fork mounts. My quick estimate is that its only 1-2mpg less compared to the fork mounts. My car was getting about 39-43mpg highway 28-32city and with the fork mounts and bikes 34-38mpg. I still have had only two trips with the criteriums hopefully there's no difference, but I'll compute the average MPGs with the criteriums when I have more trips/data.
#155
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Great write up, but man that DT damage pretty much confirms that I'll never buy a DT clamping roof rack. Pretty happy with fork mounts.
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#156
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#157
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Published Zero to 60 time I've seen for the 535XIT was 5.8 seconds ("was" in past tense because they no longer make a 5 series station wagon.
Audi A6 3.0T has identical published zero to 60.
Cadillac CTSV wagon has you by more than a second at 4.7 zero to 60.
And Mercedes Benz E63 AMG by more than a second and a half at 4.2 zero to 60. ( Granted the "stock" may have been intended to exclude the AMG, but the AMG is "stock" in the sense that it is simply an option available as original equimpent directly from Mercedes Benz dealers.)
And as long as we're talking discontinued vehicles, I'm pretty sure a 545 wagon with a V8 would have been faster than the 535xit with an inline 6.
Not knocking the 535xit. We had a 525 BMW wagon, it's predecessor. Nice car, but not blindingly fast.
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You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
#158
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#160
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I'd do one of these. I have one and it's better than the Yak stuff. No frame contact either.
https://www.1upusa.com/rooftray.htm
https://www.1upusa.com/rooftray.htm

#161
Senior Member
I will also note, with the High Rollers on my car, I usually drive 2 or 3 miles then re-tighten the front wheel clamp and the mighty mounts as they always seem to loosen up once the load is on and moves around a little bit.
#162
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I think you're overlooking a few.
Published Zero to 60 time I've seen for the 535XIT was 5.8 seconds ("was" in past tense because they no longer make a 5 series station wagon.
Audi A6 3.0T has identical published zero to 60.
Cadillac CTSV wagon has you by more than a second at 4.7 zero to 60.
And Mercedes Benz E63 AMG by more than a second and a half at 4.2 zero to 60. ( Granted the "stock" may have been intended to exclude the AMG, but the AMG is "stock" in the sense that it is simply an option available as original equimpent directly from Mercedes Benz dealers.)
And as long as we're talking discontinued vehicles, I'm pretty sure a 545 wagon with a V8 would have been faster than the 535xit with an inline 6.
Not knocking the 535xit. We had a 525 BMW wagon, it's predecessor. Nice car, but not blindingly fast.
Published Zero to 60 time I've seen for the 535XIT was 5.8 seconds ("was" in past tense because they no longer make a 5 series station wagon.
Audi A6 3.0T has identical published zero to 60.
Cadillac CTSV wagon has you by more than a second at 4.7 zero to 60.
And Mercedes Benz E63 AMG by more than a second and a half at 4.2 zero to 60. ( Granted the "stock" may have been intended to exclude the AMG, but the AMG is "stock" in the sense that it is simply an option available as original equimpent directly from Mercedes Benz dealers.)
And as long as we're talking discontinued vehicles, I'm pretty sure a 545 wagon with a V8 would have been faster than the 535xit with an inline 6.
Not knocking the 535xit. We had a 525 BMW wagon, it's predecessor. Nice car, but not blindingly fast.
The older Audi was not as nice as the BMW, the new model is quite nice. It is true and sad that both the BMW and Audi wagon are no longer imported to the USA.
The 535 XIT with twin turbo has tons of power it is great for making a end play to get around some jerk do 65 in the fast lane. I have to say that 0 to 60 in under 6 seconds is accomplished by many cars but is still fast in my book. I just love the burst of power and the abilty to go from 60 to 90 very quickly. I got a ticket that proves that (though the cop wrote for 19 over so that it was not considered reckless, he said I was doing 89). I think the 535 is almost as fast as the 8 without turbo. The 535 is much faster than the non turbo 525, I have driven the 525 loaners and they don't compare. To me it is a great car that looks and handles well has more than enough power and gets good mpg. I had a 4.4 X5 and that thing was nice but was big and loved gas. Even if mpg was not a factor I would still go with the handling of the car. I really can't understand why Americans love SUVs. I recently drove a new X3 and it still felt big and heavy the 8 speed transmission was always shifting. To me it is the perfect car, it looks good and has room for lots of cargo, including my bike. I only plan to put my bike on top on long trips with lots of people and cargo.
Last edited by v70cat; 12-18-11 at 07:02 AM.
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if you have a fuelly link to your gas expenditures/milage I'd love to see it for comparison on my VW diesel forums - just PM me if you do have one.
I've seen the new gas Sky-activ engined Mazda 3's that get up to 40mph but thats with a manual transmission and strict speed control in the 55-65mph zones.
I've gotten up to 47mpg on my car but that was perfect conditions (Boston-NYC) 2am no one on the road and me going 60-65mph the whole way with a diesel engine.
But when I go up to 75-80 my MPG's drop significantly to the high 20's low 30's. even the hybrids MPG go way down over the 70-80mph range because its the gas engine kicking in and powering the vehicle (and resultant MPG hit to the low 30s even high 20s range).
#164
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if you get 27mpg going 75-80 what kind of MPG do you get going 55? around the 40mpg range?
if you have a fuelly link to your gas expenditures/milage I'd love to see it for comparison on my VW diesel forums - just PM me if you do have one.
I've seen the new gas Sky-activ engined Mazda 3's that get up to 40mph but thats with a manual transmission and strict speed control in the 55-65mph zones.
I've gotten up to 47mpg on my car but that was perfect conditions (Boston-NYC) 2am no one on the road and me going 60-65mph the whole way with a diesel engine.
But when I go up to 75-80 my MPG's drop significantly to the high 20's low 30's. even the hybrids MPG go way down over the 70-80mph range because its the gas engine kicking in and powering the vehicle (and resultant MPG hit to the low 30s even high 20s range).
if you have a fuelly link to your gas expenditures/milage I'd love to see it for comparison on my VW diesel forums - just PM me if you do have one.
I've seen the new gas Sky-activ engined Mazda 3's that get up to 40mph but thats with a manual transmission and strict speed control in the 55-65mph zones.
I've gotten up to 47mpg on my car but that was perfect conditions (Boston-NYC) 2am no one on the road and me going 60-65mph the whole way with a diesel engine.
But when I go up to 75-80 my MPG's drop significantly to the high 20's low 30's. even the hybrids MPG go way down over the 70-80mph range because its the gas engine kicking in and powering the vehicle (and resultant MPG hit to the low 30s even high 20s range).
I am sure that it would get better mpg at 55 to 60 the instant mpg readout shows close to 30. I just never drive that slow on the highway. Always limit plus nine until someone wants to go faster and then I follow. It seems that someone always wants to pass me which is great.
The VW diesel is very nice test drove one and was impressed. I had a 1980's diesel Rabbit that got great mpg but had to turn off the AC to go up hills.
No fuelly link but I have a Escort Detector.
Last edited by v70cat; 01-20-12 at 06:05 PM.
#165
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I have a second Lariat on the way from Ebay, in Urban camo (it was a good deal...) my original one is red. I could care less about the color, RockyMounts bike racks are solid and well designed.
I do make sure the rear wheel hold down ratchet is securely fixed... but the fork mount will not really let the bike go too far, short of a HUGE bump. If I was to go on a long trip, I would simply add some extra tie downs around the wheel, probably just tightly tied para 550 cord. I also recommend plastic wrap around your handlebars/seat if traveling near dusk. Bugs...!
#166
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I have an 07 2.5i wagon and set up similar. I have Yakima Railgrab saddles/round bars, and I use RockyMounts Lariat (it was a noose, I converted it) backwards, when I remember to put it on backwards. Putting it pointing forward will not allow the trunk to open very far at all, especially with the spoiler on the back. And, if anyone has seen these wagons without the spoiler, it really adds a LOT to the looks of the car.
I have a second Lariat on the way from Ebay, in Urban camo (it was a good deal...) my original one is red. I could care less about the color, RockyMounts bike racks are solid and well designed.
I do make sure the rear wheel hold down ratchet is securely fixed... but the fork mount will not really let the bike go too far, short of a HUGE bump. If I was to go on a long trip, I would simply add some extra tie downs around the wheel, probably just tightly tied para 550 cord. I also recommend plastic wrap around your handlebars/seat if traveling near dusk. Bugs...!
I have a second Lariat on the way from Ebay, in Urban camo (it was a good deal...) my original one is red. I could care less about the color, RockyMounts bike racks are solid and well designed.
I do make sure the rear wheel hold down ratchet is securely fixed... but the fork mount will not really let the bike go too far, short of a HUGE bump. If I was to go on a long trip, I would simply add some extra tie downs around the wheel, probably just tightly tied para 550 cord. I also recommend plastic wrap around your handlebars/seat if traveling near dusk. Bugs...!

#167
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I was able to mount BMW bike rack to the slot in Whispbars.
I did have to file down the heads of the screws but it work out sweet and clean will post photos in a few days.
The reason I went with BMW bike rack is that they were on sale for $121.00 and I have a BMW. https://www.shopbmwusa.com/ProductDet...&ProductId=533
The reason I went with Whispbars is that they are made to reduce wind noise and look better. https://www.whispbar.co.nz/
I did have to file down the heads of the screws but it work out sweet and clean will post photos in a few days.
The reason I went with BMW bike rack is that they were on sale for $121.00 and I have a BMW. https://www.shopbmwusa.com/ProductDet...&ProductId=533
The reason I went with Whispbars is that they are made to reduce wind noise and look better. https://www.whispbar.co.nz/
Last edited by v70cat; 05-06-12 at 08:29 AM.
#169
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#171
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Thule big mouth, Its quick and easier and never feel unsafe. many others i've used, I have found my self peaking through the sunroof every 30 seconds.
#172
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#173
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#174
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I have a Thule/Yakima combo for my BMW 530i due to Thule making the custom crossbars that actually bolt into the frame. Not sure if it's compatible with your 535 or not, probably depends on the model year. My 530i is a 2003.

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here is my Seasucker Mini Bomber rack. These use super strong vacumn mounts and have not had any issues with them. What I like is how easy it is to install and remove on any car. It is a perfect solution for someone who is looking for a bike rack that has flexibility and doesn't want anything semi-permanent.




