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"Lazy" Mechanical Question

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"Lazy" Mechanical Question

Old 10-08-11, 10:29 AM
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datlas 
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"Lazy" Mechanical Question

I noticed after today's club ride that my rear brake is sticking (i.e. not releasing).

It won't fully release unless I manually pull the brake lever back into place, or if I pull on the exposed brake cable along the underside of the top tube.

The brakes are Ultegra 6700, original brake cable, the bike is a little over 1 year old.

Anyway, I think the "correct" thing to do is remove the cable, clean out any crud that might be in the housing between the brake lever and the front TT cable stop, and put in a new cable (and maybe even new housing). I suspect the bike deserves a new cable anyway since the current one is original and has approx 8000 miles on it.

However I am feeling quite lazy and am looking for a "quick fix," even if temporary, for tomorrow's ride, and maybe enough to last a month or two...

I would rather do a repair job like this in the winter if possible, as part of a thorough cleaning/maintenance job.

Short of just manually pushing the brake lever back into place after braking, does anyone have a "quick and dirty" fix that might work?
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Old 10-08-11, 10:32 AM
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Has it been cleaned recently? My brake started doing that when it had a bunch of crap in the pivot points. Cleaned it out, and it works as good as new!
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Old 10-08-11, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Bioluminescence View Post
Has it been cleaned recently? My brake started doing that when it had a bunch of crap in the pivot points. Cleaned it out, and it works as good as new!
No cleaning per se, but I did squirt some tri-flow through the pivot points (which I do every month or so) and that didn't make a difference.
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Old 10-08-11, 11:29 AM
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Get a lubricant in a spray can with the little nozzle thing and spray the heck out of the housings until it drips out the other side. Beyond that actually look to see what is binding..oh wait, nvrmnd, crazy talk that.
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Old 10-08-11, 12:49 PM
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there may be rust in the tube, a good clean-up and/or just change the wire, and it'll be as new.
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Old 10-08-11, 01:18 PM
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Tri-flow gets gummy after a while. I used to use it on my calipers before I noticed they were not as springy as they should be. wd-40 fixed that
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Old 10-08-11, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by hairnet View Post
Tri-flow gets gummy after a while. I used to use it on my calipers before I noticed they were not as springy as they should be. wd-40 fixed that
I can certainly spray the beejesus out of the calipers with some of that. I will try and report back. But I suspect the problem is "upstream" somehow, i.e. in the brake lever or, more likely, the cable between the head tube and the lever.
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Old 10-08-11, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by datlas View Post
I can certainly spray the beejesus out of the calipers with some of that. I will try and report back. But I suspect the problem is "upstream" somehow, i.e. in the brake lever or, more likely, the cable between the head tube and the lever.
Negative.

Next idea is to loosen the Brake's QR enough so that I can squeeze the calipers together and pop the cable/eyelet out of the TT boss and spray some lube up into the housing.

Unless someone has any other ideas.
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Old 10-08-11, 02:13 PM
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You flip the bike upside down and drip wd-40 into the housing with a plastic syringe.
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Old 10-08-11, 02:16 PM
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okay, so your lazy. Are you a cheapskate too? take it to a shop and let them check it out and/or replace the cable.
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Old 10-08-11, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by datlas View Post
Negative.

Next idea is to loosen the Brake's QR enough so that I can squeeze the calipers together and pop the cable/eyelet out of the TT boss and spray some lube up into the housing.

Unless someone has any other ideas.
If it feels like it's between the headtube and the lever, double check inside the lever mechanism to be sure the cable isn't frayed and binding. It could break completely at a bad time... Otherwise, I'd copiously lube everything, until you can replace the cable.
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Old 10-08-11, 03:07 PM
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Assuming the return spring is intact/working right... it does have a return spring, right?
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Old 10-09-11, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by DScott View Post
Assuming the return spring is intact/working right... it does have a return spring, right?
Do Ultegra 6700 LEVERS have a return spring in them?? I thought all the return action was from the spring in the brake calipers. I squeezed my front caliper tight and then pulled the front lever and it did not spring back. So my guess is there is not a return spring in the calipers...but I honestly don't know.

Anyway I did a 50 mile charity ride today (rideataxia.org) and I noticed that the rear brake lever returns about 90% of the way back, enough so the brake is not rubbing but it's still not "normal."

I popped the cable housing off after the ride and squirted a bunch of silicone-based lube into the housing and stood the bike on its front (ie on fork/bars with front wheel off).

Problem persists.

Any other ideas??? I can certainly ride the bike in its current condition, and if the rear brake starts to rub I can just pop the lever back into place, for the time being...but it's kinda annoying.

Any further suggestions are welcomed and appreciated.
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Old 10-09-11, 01:40 PM
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new cables/housings
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Old 10-09-11, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by DropDeadFred View Post
new cables/housings
Thanks, I think. I know that is probably the best long-term solution.

I am looking for a quick short-term fix to last a few months.

I am planning to replace the cables and housings sometime this winter when I am snowed in and bored.
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Old 10-09-11, 02:47 PM
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Ok Gang...there is good news and bad news.

The good news is that I solved the problem.

The bad news is this is related to, I fear, a fundamental flaw in the 6700 shifter design.

Bear with me...

Remember last year, some guy posted and said his 6700 shift levers were corroding? We all thought he was riding his bike near salt water....

Anyway, the truth is that the metal part of the brake and shift levers ARE susceptible to corrosion (rust).

This is why I was having more friction in the system.

The metal part of the brake lever has some rust on it, and the part of this lever that slides into the carbon brake lever was causing some friction. I sprayed some silicone lube and the problem is fixed.

But the metal components of the shift and brake levers ARE corroding.

Does anyone know if Shimano accepts this as a product flaw? Are we allowed to get replacements? What does one do in the meantime to minimize this?

I don't know if this issue is "big" enough for a separate thread but I wonder how many 6700 users are heading for similar problems??

I will probably post this in the regular form since no one is going to see this posting.
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Old 10-09-11, 03:44 PM
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I was thinking of the brake return springs, but what you've discovered makes more sense. You can either replace the lever assemblies, or just keep using the silicone lube prn until you can replace the levers. This may work better than you'd expect, since most of us ignore the shifter internals until we can't. What you can't do with shimano assemblies is rebuild them, afaik.
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Old 10-09-11, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by DScott View Post
I was thinking of the brake return springs, but what you've discovered makes more sense. You can either replace the lever assemblies, or just keep using the silicone lube prn until you can replace the levers. This may work better than you'd expect, since most of us ignore the shifter internals until we can't. What you can't do with shimano assemblies is rebuild them, afaik.
Yeah I am hoping the silicone spray will work for awhile. It's kinda annoying that these little "leverettes" (for lack of a better term) are corroding. I know it's been an issue for at least one other BF member. These things are not serviceable. I may try to paint a little rustoleum on them or more likely just use them for a year or two more and replace them. But those effin' levers are expensive!!
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Old 10-09-11, 05:46 PM
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So only the latest models are having rust issues? I'm looking at my other levers and they're all steel at the pivot
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Old 10-09-11, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by datlas View Post
Thanks, I think. I know that is probably the best long-term solution.

I am looking for a quick short-term fix to last a few months.

I am planning to replace the cables and housings sometime this winter when I am snowed in and bored.
WTF is wrong with you? 20 minutes to change a brake cable isn't quick enough for you? bring it to a shop, they can do it in 10. jesus christ all mighty. there is lazy and then there is just plain stupid. either that or your a cheapskate.
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Old 10-09-11, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by datlas View Post
Thanks, I think. I know that is probably the best long-term solution.

I am looking for a quick short-term fix to last a few months.

I am planning to replace the cables and housings sometime this winter when I am snowed in and bored.
lol then just slightly adjust the release lever to your comfort i guess.
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Old 10-09-11, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dalesclyde View Post
WTF is wrong with you? 20 minutes to change a brake cable isn't quick enough for you? bring it to a shop, they can do it in 10. jesus christ all mighty. there is lazy and then there is just plain stupid. either that or your a cheapskate.
it wasn't the cable... are you too lazy to read the entire thread? or are you just too cheap to pay someone to read it to you? There is lazy and there is just plain stupid.
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Old 10-09-11, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Yaniel View Post
it wasn't the cable... are you too lazy to read the entire thread? or are you just too cheap to pay someone to read it to you? There is lazy and there is just plain stupid.
i did read the thread nimrod, he said he doesnt think it's the cable but he doesn't know for sure. Lookup the word TROUBLESHOOTING in the dictionary. eliminate potential sources of problems until you find what the problem is. considering a new cable and housing is 5 bucks and takes 10 minutes this is stupid. Oh yeah, and by the way, don't be so friggin lazy and post this in the mechanics forum where it belongs.
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Old 10-09-11, 07:12 PM
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Dude, did you go off your meds?? Why so angry?

I will tell you why I chose not to go to a mechanic. He would have installed new cables and housing and not solved the problem.

If I knew for sure it was a cable I would not have posted here.

Please be kinder or just go away.
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Old 10-09-11, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by datlas View Post
Dude, did you go off your meds?? Why so angry?

I will tell you why I chose not to go to a mechanic. He would have installed new cables and housing and not solved the problem.

If I knew for sure it was a cable I would not have posted here.

Please be kinder or just go away.
post in the proper forum or go away
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