Muffin Man

So I have 500 miles on this bike now, and i think I pretty much have the fit down, and I'm enjoying the bike. There are a couple things that are bothering me a little bit though.

First, I have shimano spd-sl pedals with the yellow cleats. When I stand up to get over a bridge or something, I Feel like I'm sliding all over the pedals. Is it something I'm doing wrong, or is that normal?

Second, My headset top cap thing, There is a cone shaped spacer at the top of the headtube, and I have my stem flipped and slammed as much as I can get it right now, but I still want more drop. Is it possible to just get a new top cap, spacer thing?

Finally, my saddle creaks a lot whenever I shift my weight, Is that normal? Im saving up to get a new saddle because this one gets uncomfortable after 10 or so miles, and moving this saddle to the commuter.

I am definitely enjoying the bike and the speeds it can get to, but now im just starting to be nit-picky and get this thing as awesome as i can get it without changing any major components.

Thanx

My bike


Just cleaned my cassette

urbanknight

It could be sloppy form, but if it doesn't hurt your knees, try some red cleats.

Depending on the headset, you might be able to buy a shorter cone spacer, or if there is a cap underneath it, you could remove the cone one altogether. That's what I did on mine.

The saddle thing could be an improperly lubed seatpost, loose saddle clamp, or a cheap seatpost.

Muffin Man

It says FSA IS2 on the cone thing, would i be able to just remove it? Or could you point me towards a new cone spacer?

Muffin Man

Oh, And I have a Specialized MTB s works that only has the label m2 metal matrix. anyone know what that means?

yellowjeep

M2 was the name of the alloy that Spec. used. Post a picture, I am sure is a sweet bike.

I must congratulate you on your already pro position and the desire to go lower.

I am willing to bet that a new saddle solves your issues with creaking. I can't offer any suggestions with the SPD-SLs. I use them with yellow cleats as well but have never felt anything other than rock solid with them. Egg beaters OTOH... Have you used any other pedal systems?

Muffin Man

If the mtb fit me, It would be an awesome bike, but I got it off cl a long time ago, and it doesnt fit me anymore, so my dad took over and put an adjustable stem on it. But it had potential

These are my first clipless pedals, so I was wondering if being able to slide my entire foot, not just my heel, 1-2 cm to either side is normal. And the cleats are only 500 mi old

Muffin Man

And is totalcycling.com legit?
they have gp4ks for 38 bucks a pop. No way

catonec 

you could get a new stem thats longer with a steeper angle to it and flip that.

MrTuner1970

Muffin man? Arent you the one who lives on Drury Lane?

Anyway...when I was using SPD-SL pedals, there wasn't the slop you describe. Maybe you have the cleat angle wrong, and you notice it when standing. ???

Muffin Man

Yea. I only really notice the loosness when i have all my weight on the pedals,

urbanknight

Depending on the guy's fit, that could either help, or hinder.

ColinL

?

I don't see how it could be a hinderance assuming you buy the right angle and length. If the OP is talking about changing the top cap on the headset, I would leave it alone and get a larger angle stem as suggested above.

Regarding sloppy pedals/cleats, first check that the cleats are tightly bolted/screwed to the shoe. If they get loose you will feel sliding and it could be hard to unclip. After that, I'm not sure how to tune your particular shoe and cleat but it can be done.

urbanknight

If the OP has the right length right now, there's little need to get a longer stem. If Catonec was thinking you need a longer stem to compensate for the angle bringing the bars (ever so slightly) closer, that's usually not the case. As for getting a steeper angle, it seems to me by the picture that he already has a -17 degree stem. I know Specialized makes a -22 or something, but that's the only option as far as a steeper angle.

nhluhr

FSA does make low-profile top covers for their integrated and internal headsets. The carbon ones are roughly $30 and the aluminum ones are roughly $10. To figure out which one you need, identify the headset you have by comparing it against their website, then once you figure it out, look at the tech notes for that headset. Almost all of them have a low profile optional top cover. They are typically 5-10mm shorter in height.

Muffin Man

It said IS-2 on the cap.

StephenH

I think we're talking about the same type cleat here, but mine have practially no play side-to-side, the play is swiveling at the cleat. You might try sticking on on the pedal and looking at it from below to see what is actually moving. (Beware: They are a lot harder to unclip without your foot in the shoe!!!)

ericm979

You should be able to get the shorter top cap from FSA. You may have to call them if your LBS is lame.

When SPD-SL cleats wear the float increases. 500 miles is not long enough but if your cleats are more used than that, wear could be the problem.
If they are new, then you need the red no float cleats.