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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

zero cost weight saving

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Old 11-08-11, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by wphamilton
I see what you're saying. But just for the sake of argument wouldn't the thinner walls make the strengthening interior tube more useful rather than less?

For more zero cost weight savings, bicycle helmets are 350-340 grams. I think there's potential savings there also. I know that my dollar store schwinn helmet has some extra straps and also some hard plastic pieces that aren't strictly necessary.
All kidding aside I just went from a Large Giro Something to a Medium Giro Prolight and it's seriously half the weight. I have way better ventilation since it doesn't sit around my head but rather on my head. I still have all the protection I used to have but at half the weight.

I went into the mountains yesterday and it was such a noticeable difference - most notably when I would look back to do traffic checks. There's a lot to be said for your statement.
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Old 11-08-11, 01:31 PM
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Relativity theory 101: "Get fat. The more you do, the lesser the bike's weight will be relatively relevant and will get relatively lighter and lighter until it gets get Speedy Light." -- Albert Einstein Not
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Old 11-08-11, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by wphamilton
I see what you're saying. But just for the sake of argument wouldn't the thinner walls make the strengthening interior tube more useful rather than less?
If the inner diameter is consistent, then yes, but that's not the case most of the time. That means there is a small gap between the seatpost and the seat tube. If anything, a long seatpost rocks back and forth slightly, scratching the inside of the tube (not a big deal, but you get the idea).
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Old 11-08-11, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Rubo
Not true. Basic physical laws state that all objects effected same by gravity once shape of the object taken out of equation (such as a feather effected by air).
Small metal ball will fall same speed as 10 ton boulder from a tower.
It might fall to the earth the same, but if you are talking bicycles going down a hill the extra weight will always make a difference. If you don't believe me try it yourself. Same for climbing. Go do a hilly route as you normally do. Then get a backpack, put about thirty lbs ballast in it, strap it on and do your route again.

Which reminds me, unless I missed it you never did state what your weight is. Your weight might help us understand where you are coming from.

On a sidenote, read this thread. I might give you some insight into the weight on hills question.

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ut-of-the-pack!
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Old 11-08-11, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Accordion
All kidding aside I just went from a Large Giro Something to a Medium Giro Prolight and it's seriously half the weight. I have way better ventilation since it doesn't sit around my head but rather on my head. I still have all the protection I used to have but at half the weight.

I went into the mountains yesterday and it was such a noticeable difference - most notably when I would look back to do traffic checks. There's a lot to be said for your statement.
I save it all in one bite when I leave mine at home so I haven't chopped it up yet ... but that Giro Prolight helmet is pretty sharp looking. I wouldn't modify it either.
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Old 11-08-11, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by urbanknight
If the inner diameter is consistent, then yes, but that's not the case most of the time. That means there is a small gap between the seatpost and the seat tube. If anything, a long seatpost rocks back and forth slightly, scratching the inside of the tube (not a big deal, but you get the idea).
OIC, the thinner wall = larger inside diameter. That makes sense, we're worried more about bending than banging so we keep a larger tube. Is that just carbon fiber with thinning the inside walls and not aluminum or steel?
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Old 11-08-11, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by wphamilton
OIC, the thinner wall = larger inside diameter. That makes sense, we're worried more about bending than banging so we keep a larger tube. Is that just carbon fiber with thinning the inside walls and not aluminum or steel?
Exactly, and it works with all materials. With metal, it's called butted tubing. I'm not sure if they call it that on carbon tubes.
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Old 11-08-11, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Accordion
All kidding aside I just went from a Large Giro Something to a Medium Giro Prolight and it's seriously half the weight. I have way better ventilation since it doesn't sit around my head but rather on my head. I still have all the protection I used to have but at half the weight.

I went into the mountains yesterday and it was such a noticeable difference - most notably when I would look back to do traffic checks. There's a lot to be said for your statement.
Funny how different body builds have different problems/issues about them. Your thought about the traffic checks comes true but for another reason. I am a stocky mesomorph with a build that is anything but ideal for cycling. 5'8" 200lbs with lots of muscle and not much excess fat. Believe or not, the biggest problem I have in the drops is being able to do traffic checks or even tilting my head back to look straight ahead. The bulk in the trapezius muscles makes it hard. I never have thought about the weight of a helmet.
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Old 11-08-11, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by urbanknight
That means there is a small gap between the seatpost and the seat tube. If anything, a long seatpost rocks back and forth slightly, scratching the inside of the tube (not a big deal, but you get the idea).
When my seat tube cracked, the first thing they checked was the seat post length, to see if the motion you described could be responsible. It couldn't have been, so I got a new frame.
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Old 11-08-11, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Seattle Forrest
When my seat tube cracked, the first thing they checked was the seat post length, to see if the motion you described could be responsible. It couldn't have been, so I got a new frame.
I'm surprised they would even try to blame it on that. Unless the manufacturer specifies a maximum seatpost insertion, it should be able to handle the tiny impacts caused by this.
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Old 11-08-11, 02:30 PM
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OP- There's nothing wrong with removing excess useless weight.

You can do it right here on BF too using the "ignore" option.
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Old 11-08-11, 02:44 PM
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dstrong: edit: I don't look to my bike to shave weight...I only need to look just above my beltline to know where I could shave weight at no cost. quote.

I agree, however if I was slim and trim it may be another story. When I bought my last bike I did so with not wanting any more weight than needed. After all why would a person carry more weight that they needed?
I think it was a good post. Name calling and being nasty is just childish and shows a persons true colors.
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Old 11-08-11, 04:26 PM
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Thanks everyone for getting this thread back in line, and peaceful.
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Old 11-08-11, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by urbanknight
I'm surprised they would even try to blame it on that. Unless the manufacturer specifies a maximum seatpost insertion, it should be able to handle the tiny impacts caused by this.
It seemed kind of weird to me, too. LBS checked the bike out, then removed the seatpost and took a picture showing that it extended several inches below the crack. Their email with photos of the crack, and of the post length, were all it took to get me a new frame. I'm not sure if that's Cervelo or LBS, but LBS said they had never seen a frame crack in that location before. They said that repeated impacts, even small ones, are bad, though.

I was very happy to have it replaced, though.
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Old 11-08-11, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by LowCel
Thanks everyone for getting this thread back in line, and peaceful.
are you threathening me?


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Old 11-08-11, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ravenmore
are you threathening me?


I don't even know what threathening is.
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Old 11-08-11, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by bisiklet
* (Check) Cut a good 15cm off that freeloader seat post. 50gr
* (Check) Have good and thorough dump before hitting road. 50 to 1500 gr, depending on who (or *what*) you are.
* (Check) Swap pedals with lighter ones. 50 gr. It has also the added benefit of lightening up your wallet.
* Shave all those ridiculous hair off your head. 10 to 500 gr, again depending on how hairy you are.
* Your newly tarted-up bald head will surely have better aero than that silly helmet. Get rid of it (no just the helmet). Better both in terms of grams and aero.
* And what are all those base layers and shorts and socks and gloves and shoes and all... They're for quiche eaters. HTFU and wear just an optional Speedo and have done with it. Lighter and sexier, though hopefully no one will notice it.
* And thinking of those lousy heavy tires... don't bare rims have less rolling resistance than that of tires? Both lighter and better rolling resistance. Don't worry about bumps and bends, as it's rather easy nowadays to find a jet runway. It has the added benefit of relatively lower traffic.

Please don't judge by singular savings, look at the big picture. :tongueincheek:
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Old 11-08-11, 09:44 PM
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Interesting how people gang up on this guy for making a suggestion about saving a few grams (even if it is obvious), and yet asking whether it's worth spending hundreds of dollars to shave a few grams of an already light bike is a legitimate question on BF.
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Old 11-08-11, 09:50 PM
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Gang up? A couple of people made the case that his suggestion was an improvement even without the weight savings. Minus the noise I think it's been pretty balanced.
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Old 11-08-11, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by bisiklet
* (Check) Cut a good 15cm off that freeloader seat post. 50gr
* (Check) Have good and thorough dump before hitting road. 50 to 1500 gr, depending on who (or *what*) you are.
* (Check) Swap pedals with lighter ones. 50 gr. It has also the added benefit of lightening up your wallet.
* Shave all those ridiculous hair off your head. 10 to 500 gr, again depending on how hairy you are.
* Your newly tarted-up bald head will surely have better aero than that silly helmet. Get rid of it (no just the helmet). Better both in terms of grams and aero.
* And what are all those base layers and shorts and socks and gloves and shoes and all... They're for quiche eaters. HTFU and wear just an optional Speedo and have done with it. Lighter and sexier, though hopefully no one will notice it.
* And thinking of those lousy heavy tires... don't bare rims have less rolling resistance than that of tires? Both lighter and better rolling resistance. Don't worry about bumps and bends, as it's rather easy nowadays to find a jet runway. It has the added benefit of relatively lower traffic.

Please don't judge by singular savings, look at the big picture. :tongueincheek:
You forgot to mention one could just pretend to ride a bike and save 17lb!Try it yourself!

Last edited by Rubo; 11-09-11 at 12:57 AM.
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Old 11-08-11, 10:29 PM
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I am 178 lb age 47
recreational rider.I ride to work no matter the weather.Put about 120 miles a week.
Never raced nor plan to however I time my commute daily.
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Old 11-08-11, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by urbanknight

But yeah, as long as you don't intend to sell the seatpost later, there's nothing wrong with cutting it to your required length.
well, how far (minimum) should the seat post stick in the seat tube?
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Old 11-08-11, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by southern rider
well, how far (minimum) should the seat post stick in the seat tube?
There's usually a mark on the seat tube - the minimum insertion point.
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Old 11-08-11, 10:46 PM
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To all people who made a stink about this thread let me put this in dollar context.

https://weightweenies.starbike.com/li...type=cranksets

105 FC-5505 722g $140 average
Ultegra FC-6750 712g $250 average
Dura-Ace FC-7950 687g $500 average !!!!

Now difference of grams all three are less then 50g ! So why pay $500 for Dura Ace when trimming your seat-post gets you there free!
I think I made my point.
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Old 11-08-11, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by southern rider
well, how far (minimum) should the seat post stick in the seat tube?
As someone mentioned earlier, at least a couple inches past the top tube.


Originally Posted by Accordion
There's usually a mark on the seat tube - the minimum insertion point.
True, but that's a safe estimate by seatposts, while the frame also factors in there. Also, if you were to cut the seatpost, that line is no longer valid, if it's even there anymore.
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