"Cold" weather strategy
 

This is my first season back to riding in cold weather since I was a kid. I have done some reading of topics here related to cold weather, clothing for it, etc. but apparently didn't fully understand, or something. I went and bought some knee warmers, long sleeve jersies, compression tops, some UA bottoms, and a sleeveless, vented vest to wear. I also have some long gloves and some tights I will have to modify to be able to wear for opening on Christmas.

I have gone riding a few days in low 50's high 40's weather, and I froze my ass off. I am producing copious amounts of snot, and just miserable on the bike the entire ride. All I can think of is being done. My mileage has gone way down, and I am losing fit day by day. I just have gotten over a bad cold from what I suspect was poor protection from the elements. I read in the winter cycling forum, and here about people still riding bikes in ice and snow and here I am having a hard time in what some of you would consider spring warmup.

I guess it would be easier for me to tell you what I "think" I know about it, what I am doing, and hope that y'all can give helpful insight and suggestions on what to do by way of correction.

We will assume it is going to be 50* out. I put on a set of underarmor undies with my shorts over...I know you aren't supposed to wear anything under the shorts, but obviously have to do something to protect my junk. I put on a T shirt, compression top, jersey, and vest. I wear my knee warmers and long wool sock. It is not comfortable wearing the clothing under the shorts, or the compression top, but in an attempt to stay warm I have to try something. I have noted that all the lycra wear I have allows the wind to come through just as if I was wearing nothing at all. I freeze my butt off going downhill, fast, or in the shade. In spite of zippers, etc. I still start heating up too much going up hills, slow, etc.
I have gotten a set of "radiator tights" to use after Christmas, w/o the chamois, and assume they will go over my shorts and allow me to eliminate the UA underwear that are so uncomfortable.

I have read that the idea in cold weather is just to make the miles at a routine pace just to keep your base and therefore not to suffer as much in the spring. Not to work up a sweat..which I already know why from having done so. I try to zip up going down hills, unzip going up, etc. but cannot find a happy medium...I am either freezing, or too hot, from one extreme to the other, constantly.

What I suppose I am getting at, is could you offer some suggestions to help me out, perhaps share with me how you are layering up and what conditions under which you change the layering or unzip to help deal with the conditions on any given ride?
I know it isn't going to be like jumping in the car, cranking up the heat and being all comfy cozy riding along. I also know that I can't wrap all up like riding a motorcycle simply because the physical exertion is going to cause me to sweat and then cool too much. Simply put, I need to find some happy medium here so that I can continue on in the winter and be prepared to meet my goals next spring. Sorry for all the "noob" questions and if there is a post already detailing and answering these issues a link would be great.

I ride in temps down to around 20F and I think being somewhat cold is just part of the winter experience. If you are warm, you'll be hot and sweat more and end up even colder. If you are a tad cold, your body will produce enough heat to find a balance. That said, my face is usually cold. Anyway, here is what I do. Works for me. Ymmv.

regular bib shorts
warm, wool socks (long type like up to mid calf) I don't have booties yet and last year on really cold days my feet were cold
cycling tights (am going to experiment with wool long johns under but over bibs but hasn't been cold enough yet)
wool base layer top under bib straps
long or short sleeve jersey depending on temps
long or short sleeve wind-proof jacket (mine has removable sleeves) depending on temps
skull cap that covers ears depending on temps (40 and up I usually don't need it)
full finger gloves when it's cold enough

Thanks for the reply. I think one of the keys is going to be finding a wind jacket and pants that work for me. I am burning up before I leave the house, and when there is no wind, but the constant issue with cold, then hot, then cold, then hot is frustrating. I obviously cannot just stop at every hill and valley to change out my clothing configuration. My main issue is with my core. I have been a motorcycle rider for years. Cold legs and hands don't bother me too much (besides I only have one foot to get cold anyway), but I really don't like having a cold core.
The other issue is with snot production. I am having serious issue with it, and am wondering if people are taking something before a ride, or just dealing with face, shoulder, and glove looking like a glazed donut when they get back in from a ride?

What is the t-shirt made of? Cotton? Cotton is bad, it gets wet and stays wet & cold.

It's not rocket science, and everyone is different as to what to wear in colder temps. You will just have to try out various combinations. Sometimes 2 pairs of armwarmers, 2 jerseys, vest, sometimes long sleeve jersey, wind jacket or warmer jacket. You'll definitely need some long tights for the 40's. Wool socks are really nice, too.


It's a big investment in clothes, but try to get items that are different weights/types and you can layer them to tune them for the temperature. Try to get jerseys and vests with big pockets to use to carry layers as you shed them.

Warm gloves, toe or shoe covers and something to cover your ears can help a lot.

Forget wind pants, unless it's raining that will make you overheat for sure.

Snot happens. Learn to do the "farmer blow" or "snot rocket" or hawk & spit.

Punkn, wondered how your cold was doing.

I am watching this topic as well. I commuted back and forth to work Friday (21.3 one-way). My core was warm as I layered, in fact too much because I was sweaty. My feet are what was killing me because my feet would sweat then felt like they were freezing! Does wool stop this?

BTW, I am interested in ways to reduce the mucus faucet too! Occasionally I imitated Shamu and just had to blow snot. Good thing I was riding alone!

I posted this in another thread:

A trick I tried this year and has seemed to work is Duct Tape.

I used Duct Tape on the vents of my helmet as well as the front 1/3 of my cycling shoes. Makes a huge difference IMHO.

This.

Nonintuitively, the best way to stay warm enough is to not wear too much -- most people wear way too much. Another thing to keep in mind that you shouldn't try to be comfortable at all points on the ride. You should feel chilly for the first few miles, on extended descents, and the like. If you try to make yourself warm everywhere, you'll never be happy. Obviously, if temps are expected to drop, you should carry something for that.

I like riding in the cold, but the snot has always just flowed. Just perfect your snot rocket technique and you'll be fine.

Not sure why you are wearing so much in 50 degree weather. That's still shorts and jersey weather for me. Maybe add a light coolmax shirt if it's the lower 50s and windy. But I generate enough heat at those mild temps to stay warm. I'd just keep working hard and concentrate on moving the sweat away from your body. Now once it's gets colder you need to start working the layers and once again sweat management is key.

Yep. I always start out feeling pretty cold. It takes at least 3-5 miles to get to full operating temp at which point I'm sweating. It doesn't take much in the way of clothes. In the 40s I wear a long sleeve jersey, thin jacket that's windproof in the front and porous in the back (to let sweat out) and leg warmers. I wear a beanie under my helmet and maybe a helmet cover if it's colder. Windproof shoe covers are a must. Below 40 I'll mix and match two thermal or merino wool jerseys under the jacket and wear tights with windproof fronts. I have a variety of gloves to choose from, but none are thick or bulky. If it's really cold I'll wear a balaclava.

Today for example, it was in the high 40s and I wore a long sleeve jersey and vest with windproof front and mesh back. No beanie, no leg warmers, no shoe covers. Once up to speed I needed to unzip the vest a bit.

My trick is some hot coffe in an insulated water bottle.

Because he's in Atlanta and to them it's cold? :)

At 50deg I'm just thinking about long sleeved jerseys. :p

I don't want to get all macho about this, but 50 isn't very cold and there's no reason to be uncomfortable riding on a 50 degree day. I'd typically wear a not-too-heavy base layer of wool or fleece and a wind layer, probably a microfiber shell. If that weren't enough, I'd ad an insulating layer between them.
There's no need to spend a ton of money on bike-specific clothing. Thrift shops are full of old sweaters and fleece for a few bucks, and you already HAVE winter clothes, right?
FWIW, we can't expect 50 again here until April. The hot-cold-hot thing is just part of riding. Start a little light and you'll warm up in a mile or two. This isn't physics.

Dress to be cool/cold for the first 20 minutes. Wool base layers if cold. At 50 F, I am wearing bibs a jersey, knee and arm warmers and even the ar warmers are questionable. Around 35, I wear leg warmers, my regular bibs, longsleeve jersey and an isulated vest. Below that, flocked tights, wool base layer, wool jersey, light jacket or vest, shoe covers and a balaclava.

I see a lot of people here in heavy winter coats, goggles, insulated gloves and so on, at 45 degrees. Not that I'm laughing at them - I have a windshield so I'll be the last one to put on a macho air about it. But for what it's worth I've learned that keeping your lower legs warm helps keep your feet warm, and the same goes for forearms and hands. Then cover the face somehow (wrap, balaclava, helmet plate or whatever), and as long as you can keep a good pace up you're golden for the temperatures we mostly get around here.

+1,000

I always find myself starting out feeling a little chilly, but then once I get going, my core is fine. Typically I'll wear a normal sleeveless base + jersey with arm warmers and either a wind vest or winter vest - that helps to fix the issue with the cold on descents. I guess I'm wondering why riding isn't keeping your core warm? I'll bet it's the wrong sorts of fabrics, as mentioned above. Believe it or not, I normally keep my Craft summer base layer in the winters here (I'll ride with it into the high 30's, before I switch to something else. With the right layers you shouldn't have a problem.

One thing that can make a BIG difference is whether you where anything under your helmet to keep your head warm. You can lose a lot of heat through your head, if I don't wear a cap or equivalent, I really chill down quickly.

I overdressed today. I started out kind of cold and my hand were very cold, but after 20 mins or so I started to get too warm and the weather might have warmed up a bit too. Took the sleeves off my jacket and was maybe a tad cold but actually I was find over the rest of the ride even though it cooled off again. My hands warmed up and were never cold again. It's amazing what a warm core can do for the extremities - to a point.

In short. Layers. Non-cotton layers. Wool rocks. I need more wool but it's so darn expensive.

You might want to stay away from the tight compression type clothing... If its too tight it might be cutting off circulation, and it will make it feel colder. A perfect example of this cold hands during cross country skiing. If you notice your fingers area cold, chance are you have a tight grip on the poles. An instructor told me to loosen my hands or open them up, and they warmed up quickly. Gripping the poles tightly was hurting the circulation in my fingers... Make sure you don't have the straps on your shoes too tight either...

This works for me down to -15C up to 2 hrs. of riding

Head - full balaclava (ski mask), Oakley sunglasses (or clear raquetball goggles) with anti-fog spray, Giro Ionos helmet with winter shield
Body - thermal base layer (for skiing), any 100% wool sweater (dirt cheap from trift store), Endura cycling jacket
Legs - thermal base thights (for skiing), MEC thermal cycling thights
Feet - point zero thin wool sock, then eddie bauer wool socks, Shimano shoes, SIDI thermal shoe covers
Hands - thin $1 store gloves, luis garneau typhoon cycling winter mitts

Also i use camelback for hydration since regular bottles freeze immediately. Wool is the key. It is really great in regulating body temperature.

lots of good advice here.

first, don't overdress. you'll get sweaty and eventually cool rapidly and thats much more miserable than being a little cold.

second, its going to take some experimentation on your part. it just takes some experience.

lastly, don't give in! thats just what winter wants! the first day of spring is sooo much nicer when you're in shape for it.

The best article of apparel I have ever purchased for cycling in cool or cold weather was my wind jacket with removable sleeves. A cool or cold wind will cut through a long sleeve jersey and perhaps another layer. When you perceive the temperature to be cold enough, dress in layers as others have mentioned, and use the wind jacket as the outer layer. Someone else mentioned that you have to experiment to determine what will work for you, and I agree. Also, I agree with starting "chilly". Usually, I'll begin to warm after a few chilly miles. Get a wind jacket and enjoy the riding and experimentation.

Of course, it's possible to start out on the low side of the "chilly" mark and and never warm up. Done that too :( and I hate hauling along a wardrobe.

You've gotta be kidding me. 50F is cool, but isn't remotely cold. That's the typical AM temperature for a ride in sunny Southern California in the spring and early summer!

You have nobody to blame but yourself if you're freezing at 50F. Put on some friggin' clothes. Until you're down in the freezing temps, it's not rocket science. And yes, you're going to sweat like a dog on the hard climbs and be chilly on the downhill. No way around it unless you choose to not hammer the climbs.

I'm in central AZ (Prescott) and I'll admit so far this fall I have totally wussed out! I the days are plenty nice but unfortunately that's when I need to be at work. Trying to figure out something where I can get my miles in without riding in the dark or freezing my butt off too much....I must get it together and /or HTFU soon and this is NOT optional, as I am planning to ride the Iron Horse classic next year which ain't gonna be a walk in the park. Can't exactly lay off all winter and expect to be ready for a ride of that magnitude. Watching this thread with interest....already know I need to drop some cash for the following at minimum:
Leg warmers. Shoe covers. Full gloves. Some kind of wind breaker jacket thing.

It's not that expensive for a long-term investment.

You've pretty much got it covered:
- Shoe covers (yes you do need these, don't forget about them)
- Bibs/Tights (insulated really not necessary until you are below 45)
- Jacket (I like the Gore Windstopper, but most windproof will work.)
- Baselayers - longsleeve compression from Target is awesome
- Windproof gloves

Between my Gore Windstopper and the longsleeve compression Target baselayer, I'm good down to 40F. Below that, extra fleece vest and light cap.

The Gore Windstopper jacket isn't the be all endall of jackets (if you go hard you'll invariably sweat like a hog on the way up and get wind chill to some degree on the way down) but it's remarkably good. Even fully soaked, on a 40mph descent, I'm not freezing at all so long as you have the baselayer to block any residual wind that gets through the sleeve holes (yes, it's a big deal.)

Seriously consider riding a good trainer with a speed sensor during winter and dark, though. It's a different, more targeted workout, but outstanding nonetheless. This is one area where triathletes have roadies beat hand down - Computrainers are standard equipment amongst top level triathletes for year-round power-based training, and they get impressive results with it. You don't need a Computrainer per se, but if you get yourself on a power or HR based plan on a trainer (convert speed to power for the KK trainer), you'll be getting GREAT training. I've got enough lights to be very safe riding outdoors in dark, but I vastly prefer my trainer in winter/dark for the specificity and no-nonsense time efficient training.