Mavic Ksyrium SL are they any good?
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Mavic Ksyrium SL are they any good?
I have an opportunity to buy a set of 2012 Mavic Ksyrium SL, I dont have any experience with Mavic wheels. But read some good things about the Ksyriums. if you have experience with these wheels any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
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Throw the stick!!!!
I bought a set a couple of months ago and I am very happy.
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I love mine, but I feel they are a bit steep at $1000. I didn't pay retail for mine though. Agree with datlas, you could do just as well for much less.
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I luv 'em, especially since I weigh a lot. Didn't pay full price though.
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I have 2011 Ksyrium Elite. They're not a lot heavier and are significantly cheaper. I weigh 175 and expect these wheels to be very durable even though I hit cobblestones daily.
I like the wheels a lot. I felt crosswinds the first few times I rode them and ~700 miles later it's not an issue.
I like the wheels a lot. I felt crosswinds the first few times I rode them and ~700 miles later it's not an issue.
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I have a set of 2006 SSC SL's that are bombproof. Or at least curbproof. I have at least 25K miles on them, have bashed them against curbs, through potholes, and raced the worst roads in NorCal on them. Replaced the bearings last year and they are still going strong.
They're not the most aero, but if you want a stiff, strong, relatively light wheel for training or crit racing, they are great wheels. (But, I wouldn't pay retail for them.)
They're not the most aero, but if you want a stiff, strong, relatively light wheel for training or crit racing, they are great wheels. (But, I wouldn't pay retail for them.)
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I've been riding mine for a year now, put about 4k miles on them. Not one problem with them, been on some absolutely horrible roads too. I also bought them 1/2 price for them just barely used.
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They're good wheels and I have owned a pair before.
Just be sure to regularly lube and check the spoke/nipple interface. It is aluminum on aluminum and will oxidize quite readily.
Just be sure to regularly lube and check the spoke/nipple interface. It is aluminum on aluminum and will oxidize quite readily.
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Lost
solid wheels, but i agree with the above, $1k is a lot for them, you can do as good for less. if you're getting them for less, go for it.
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Cool thanks for all the info, I wouldn't pay retail for them either.
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OK, spill the beans....how much are you paying?!?
If it's less than $550 I say go for it. $550-650 is probably ok, above $650 you could do better.
If it's less than $550 I say go for it. $550-650 is probably ok, above $650 you could do better.
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it rusts together.
Usually not a problem as they are so bombproof and rarely need to be trued.
I own a set that I have had for about 3 years. Both wheels are ever so slightly out of true.
Upon trying to true the wheels, I discovered that every single spoke/nipple interface was frozen.
This is a common problem due to the materials employed at this interface, but it can be easily avoided with routine maintenance.
Usually not a problem as they are so bombproof and rarely need to be trued.
I own a set that I have had for about 3 years. Both wheels are ever so slightly out of true.
Upon trying to true the wheels, I discovered that every single spoke/nipple interface was frozen.
This is a common problem due to the materials employed at this interface, but it can be easily avoided with routine maintenance.
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it rusts together.
Usually not a problem as they are so bombproof and rarely need to be trued.
I own a set that I have had for about 3 years. Both wheels are ever so slightly out of true.
Upon trying to true the wheels, I discovered that every single spoke/nipple interface was frozen.
This is a common problem due to the materials employed at this interface, but it can be easily avoided with routine maintenance.
Usually not a problem as they are so bombproof and rarely need to be trued.
I own a set that I have had for about 3 years. Both wheels are ever so slightly out of true.
Upon trying to true the wheels, I discovered that every single spoke/nipple interface was frozen.
This is a common problem due to the materials employed at this interface, but it can be easily avoided with routine maintenance.
Solid wheelsets, those Mavics.
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I have 2011 Ksyrium Elite. They're not a lot heavier and are significantly cheaper. I weigh 175 and expect these wheels to be very durable even though I hit cobblestones daily.
I like the wheels a lot. I felt crosswinds the first few times I rode them and ~700 miles later it's not an issue.
I like the wheels a lot. I felt crosswinds the first few times I rode them and ~700 miles later it's not an issue.
SL's are excellent wheels. I couldn't afford them. I wouldn't pay that much for a set of SL's when I have the same wheel for a lot less with only a 70g penalty. Main differences: Spoke material and carbon on the hubs. Rims are identical.
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I have a set of 2006 SSC SL's that are bombproof. Or at least curbproof. I have at least 25K miles on them, have bashed them against curbs, through potholes, and raced the worst roads in NorCal on them. Replaced the bearings last year and they are still going strong.
They're not the most aero, but if you want a stiff, strong, relatively light wheel for training or crit racing, they are great wheels. (But, I wouldn't pay retail for them.)
They're not the most aero, but if you want a stiff, strong, relatively light wheel for training or crit racing, they are great wheels. (But, I wouldn't pay retail for them.)
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Same here. '11 Elites. 90% of the SL's, but at about 2/3s cost. I paid $600. for mine.
SL's are excellent wheels. I couldn't afford them. I wouldn't pay that much for a set of SL's when I have the same wheel for a lot less with only a 70g penalty. Main differences: Spoke material and carbon on the hubs. Rims are identical.
SL's are excellent wheels. I couldn't afford them. I wouldn't pay that much for a set of SL's when I have the same wheel for a lot less with only a 70g penalty. Main differences: Spoke material and carbon on the hubs. Rims are identical.
I have a set of 2007 SLs. Have only ridden them about 350 miles, but they are nice and stiff. I like them for climbing.
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As a bit heavier rider at 220 lbs. I consider my SL wheels very good. I advised my wife at 125 lbs. she does not need them, maybe go with the Elite wheels.
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The Elite is even tougher than the SL because of the spoke and hub material. In fact I could've sworn that the SL used to list a weight limit of no more than 220 pounds, but I don't see that now on Mavic's site.
I bought my wife some Boyd 30mm Rolleur wheels.
I bought my wife some Boyd 30mm Rolleur wheels.
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From all I hear, the Elites are as good as the SLs. I've recently seen Elites for $400, so don't go paying $600 for them. Seems like they sometimes go on sale in the dead of winter for a good bit less than $400.
I have a set of 2007 SLs. Have only ridden them about 350 miles, but they are nice and stiff. I like them for climbing.
I have a set of 2007 SLs. Have only ridden them about 350 miles, but they are nice and stiff. I like them for climbing.
Different graphics. Even still, one will not find a better wheelset for $400.
I'd totally get a silver set for a trainer if I could find them at that price when I build one.
I was really tempted to settle for the 2010's for a while for $100. less, but I just had to have the 2011's (and early in the year). I struggled with paying 80% of what my bike cost just for a set of wheels and I had a knot in my stomach when I went to go pick up my bike, but when they rolled it out and I took it for a spin, $600. didn't seem like anything. Then, when he put it on the scale (what!) I was like

I'm ridiculously frugal, but I have no qualms about paying MSRP for something I can't get any cheaper (at that time I couldn't) and something I just have to have. Even then, at $600., I got it for $75. off MSRP and that was no tax, out the door, mounted (cassette & tires installed).
Now, there are Ksyrium "Equipes" that regularly go for $400.
And unlike the relationship between the SL's and the Elites,
they are distinctively different.
Last edited by 2ndGen; 11-15-11 at 09:16 PM.
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I researched a ton before buying.
I read of a lot of people breaking spokes on Eastons. I did not find nearly as many complaints about Mavic Ksyriums. In fact the opposite, I found many people saying they were tanks and very durable for heavy riders-- in fact, wastefully heavy for riders under 200 pounds. Obviously it's a box section rim, which is out of fashion now in a world of dished rims.
Another Easton complaint I saw is that some people have a ton of trouble fitting tires to them. I'm not sure if some rims are oversized a hair, or if it's just a symptom of using a really tough to fit tire like a Gatorskin or Durano HS. (Pretty sure I recall someone in Texas who had Gatorskins.)
Third reason to buy Ksyriums: they are road tubeless ready. The spoke doesn't go through the rim, yet for some reason Mavic doesn't list UST as a feature unlike the Crossmax wheels which have the same spoke & rim design. In the Spring I am dismounting my GP 4 Seasons, buying Stans valves, sealant and some Hutchinson Fusion 3 road tubeless!
I read of a lot of people breaking spokes on Eastons. I did not find nearly as many complaints about Mavic Ksyriums. In fact the opposite, I found many people saying they were tanks and very durable for heavy riders-- in fact, wastefully heavy for riders under 200 pounds. Obviously it's a box section rim, which is out of fashion now in a world of dished rims.
Another Easton complaint I saw is that some people have a ton of trouble fitting tires to them. I'm not sure if some rims are oversized a hair, or if it's just a symptom of using a really tough to fit tire like a Gatorskin or Durano HS. (Pretty sure I recall someone in Texas who had Gatorskins.)
Third reason to buy Ksyriums: they are road tubeless ready. The spoke doesn't go through the rim, yet for some reason Mavic doesn't list UST as a feature unlike the Crossmax wheels which have the same spoke & rim design. In the Spring I am dismounting my GP 4 Seasons, buying Stans valves, sealant and some Hutchinson Fusion 3 road tubeless!
