dnuzzomueller

I can totally output 700+ watts for 5 minutes....

On Topic: Also I believe someone else mentioned it before so credit to them but, get a cycle computer with cadence. That will help you keep your cadence up (I found it took me a long time to actually get a real sense for my actual cadence, and I still like using the computer to check it). Cadence is everything when it comes to speed, a higher cadence is almost always the trick to going faster, I still find that I never use my 53x11 even going downhill so just work on cadence at 90+ and once it goes over 110 shift to a harder gear. Also as people have already said the big gear is not needed most of the time, you will actually get "smoother" jumps (Cadence wise) when using the small ring and shifting the rear.

triumph.1

off topic: ^^^that didn't take long................

on topic: as stated cheap computer and time in the saddle pushing yourself.

phage

I'm not sure what the brakes are, they are the pinching kind (so I would guess caliper?). I have terrible grip strength so it is pretty tiring to have to hold them slightly closed. They are currently setup so I don't have to close them all the way to come to a stop, although the also don't stop particularly fast either. How hard/expensive is it to get the handlebars that have brakes on the curly down part and the flatbar?

As far as shifting goes the front chain will pop off if I don't move the lever far enough or too far, but I think that is common with downtube shifters and just learning how to use them. I hadn't been using the back gears very much since I couldn't see why they would sometimes not catch. Both problems are getting less of a deal the more I ride and shift. I'm pretty sure all the issues with shifting are just from my inexperience. Also not sure how easy/expensive it would be replace the downtube shifter to something slightly more modern that would have friction/clicking.

Anyone have any advice on a cyclometer or are they all basically the same?

Also for shoes/clips, how easily can you swap the clips/pedals out? Can you walk on bike cleat shoes like into the grocery or do you need to change them out? They look like they could help quite a bit, just unsure how they are used when not on the bike!

I focused on cadence on my ride home yesterday and it definitely seemed to help with both speed and tiring me out so looking forward to riding more!

I've been biking from Herndon to Vienna on the weekends, my work commute is significantly shorter and basically just cutting across to the opposite sides of Herndon Parkway. If you see a blue gortex jacket feel free to say hello!

Dalvana, is there any good bike places around Herndon you would suggest, ideally not super pricey or more co-op-y?

There's a bunch of smaller maintenance I likely need to do, but will probably get a newer bike relatively soon so not sure it is worth paying 150+ monnies for a shop to look at it.

Any and all advice appreciated!

Tex81

Unfortunately, the cleats required on the shoe for SPD pedals (commonly referred to as road bike pedals) are a bit awkward to walk in. The cleat sits under the ball of your foot, so your toes are elevated in related to your heel when standing on the ground. Some people use mountain bike pedals and shoes on their road bike which allows you to walk flat footed due to its cleat design. You can also clip in on either side of the pedal vs. SPD which only clips in from one side. For commuting I might recommend the mountain bike pedals and shoes to make it easier to walk in when off the bike.

Homebrew01

That is an adjustment problem. There are high and low "limit screws" that control how far the derailleur moves. If the chain shifts off the chainring towards the pedals, then the high limit screw needs to be screwed in a turn or so to prevent the derailleur from moving so far. If it shifts off the small chainring onto the frame, then the low limit screw needs to be turned in a bit.

Converting a 1983 bike to indexing is not so simple because then all the drivetrain parts (cogs, shifters, rear derailleur) need to be designed for indexing, which yours aren't. A low budget estimate with used or older parts would be $300 minimum. Stick with your current bike, learn to ride it well, then if you stick with it, shop for a new or used modern bike based on your budget.

phage

It's falling between the cogs, not off the ends. It's gotten stuck a couple times between them, which has scraped up the paint a bit as well, but hasn't happened recently now that I'm getting more comfortable with it.

I think there are friction or clicking down tube shifter components (mine are just levers), though I'm not sure if that is changing the little level pieces on the tube or if it is changing the cogs below.

Is there a big difference in efficacy between the mountain bike shoes and the road shoes? Any specific pieces shoes or pedals to look into?

Thanks!

Homebrew01

You can get indexed downtube shifters, but as I mentioned, you'd need to get the other parts that work with indexing.

Not much efficiancy difference in shoes for casual riding. Any clipless pedals will be much more efficient than sneakers. Mtn bike shoes might be better if you want to walk more than 3-4 feet in them.

sqharaway

Good reference! :rofl:

big john

Caliper brakes have a single unit mounted by a single bolt at the top with one cable, usually. Cantilevers have two parts mounted by seperate bolts that are alongside the wheel, and have two cables.
You can add the second lever to the top of the bars, these are sometimes called cheaters but I don't remember what the real name is.
If you clean and lube everything the brakes will be easier to use.

wkg

There's no indexing in any derailleurs. Also with downtube shifters the FD shifter usually isn't indexed anyway because it allows for trim. He probably would have no issue using an indexed shifter on the rear as long as it is the correct number of speeds.

Homebrew01

On a 1983 touring bike, I doubt the cable pull on indexed shifters will match the pull ratio on the rear derailleur to properly shift each cog. Friction based freewheels (assuming it's a freewheel) did not necessarily have equally spaced cogs.

If we get the exact specs of the current components on the bike, then we can know for sure, but I'd be suprised if just putting indexed shifters on an old friction bike would work. Wouldn't cost much to try though.

revchuck 

OP - Lots of stuff going on here.

First, the old '80s Treks have a reputation for being excellent bikes. However, bikes are mechanical devices, and as such, require periodic maintenance. There's a really good chance the maintenance aspect has been neglected on yours. You need to make sure the bike is up to snuff, and that means you need to take your bike to a shop. You'll need a basic tune up and lube, and there's an excellent chance you'll have to throw some money at the bike to replace parts (brake pads, cables, tires, tubes, maybe chain) which have worn out or dry rotted. Check around with other cyclists to find out which shops are good in your area. The folks who pass you that you catch up to while waiting for traffic would be good ones to ask.

Once the bike is squared away, we can work on you. As a touring bike, the front crank is probably a triple (has three chain rings). Put the chain on the middle ring and leave it there. You'll be able to get up to ~20 mph on the middle ring and the 13 tooth cog on the back, so it won't slow you down, and the big cog should get you up any rises on a bike path. Since the bike has been tuned and adjusted, it'll shift more smoothly, and you'll feel more comfortable doing it. Work on getting your cadence up to the 90 rpm ballpark - 90 isn't a required number, but most people are most efficient at 90 rpm +/- 5 rpm. Increase your cadence slowly; it'll feel strange at first, but you'll get there.

Also, be prepared to be told at the bike shop that the bike's the wrong size for you. Most folks starting out as adults aren't aware that bikes come in different sizes, since the bikes we had as kids were all the same size. If it's close, the bars and seat can be adjusted to better fit you. If it's way off, you're going to have problems reaching stuff and pedaling efficiently - at 5'3", it's more likely to be too large for you than too small. They'll tell you this for two reasons: First, it's a bike shop, selling you stuff is their job; and second, they want you to have a good experience as a cyclist, so you'll keep riding...which brings us back to their first reason. Just don't dismiss it out of hand - bike fit really does matter, and it starts with having the right size bike.

Best of luck!

dcvelo

I think you're confusing SPD with SPD-SL. The latter are road pedals...the former are mtb pedals.

OP...for your purposes mtb pedals & shoes are probably the best choice. Look at SPD or Eggbeaters.

Tex81

Sounds like I was, thanks for clearing that up.

fishymamba

I put a dab of shoe goo on the bottom of my shoes. Shoe goo is sort of a rubbery substance, so it reduces wear and provides a little grip while walking.

phage

I've definitely noticed a big difference with using the rear gear shifting and focusing on RPM. Biked around a bunch today practicing, plus the weather was amazing!

I picked up a pair of Specialized Tahoe shoes and some Shimano mountain bike clips, which it is surprising how much nicer it is to pedal with them. So far it's been pretty easy to get them in! It isn't so much about them being faster, just more natural and more comfortable to ride in. They click a bit from the cleat touching the ground when walking, would I put shoe goo on the cleat part to reduce wear or is the goo mostly for the shoe itself?

I went to A1 Cycling, which is a completely awesome store, and got a lot of great advice from the guys there. Fortunately the bike is in great condition so it really is just me that needs to get better. Really looking forward to putting in more hours on the road!

Thanks again for all the advice about RPM and shifting, it's made a huge difference. I'm definitely getting tired from riding and I'm still only on the middle front gear and like 18ish teeth or so on the back. Really amazed at how differently I've started to ride just from when I posted this.

ultraman6970

Hahaha

ultraman6970

I smell a smasher and not a strong one Probably u are the guy I pass all the time?

Kind of Blued

Ignore everyone who said anything about gearing because they obviously don't know what they're talking about.

Have somebody tune up your bike to make sure its rideable (not the same as "good"), then go ride as much as you can.

wkg

You mean the advice people were giving him telling him to change gears to keep his cadence around 90?

BarracksSi

Whatever you do, don't add anything to the cleat, or else you'll mess up the cleat-pedal interface and it won't work correctly.

What fishymamba said about Shoe Goo is that it can help get some traction on smooth-bottom road shoes, which your Tahos aren't. Keep them as-is and ride the hell out of them. I had Tahos for a couple years -- heavy for cycling shoes, gave me hot spots on Crank Brothers Eggbeater pedals after half an hour (but not on Mallets), yet got me hooked on going clipless for decently long rides.

BarracksSi

Here's the funny thing with me and cadence -

+1. Sometimes, I'll have a harder time maintaining a speed, and my cadence starts to drop. Then I shift into the next lower gear, my cadence goes back up (say, from a low of 75 back up to 85), and my speed increases again.

If you were to compare me to a car engine, I've got a fairly narrow powerband. Some engines have buckets of torque from low RPM to redline, some are "peaky" and don't really sing until high RPMs, and others run out of breath and high RPMs and only work best down low. By comparison, cyclists have a really narrow RPM range where they/we can make good power.

Yeah, you can lug it at 60 RPM or less in a tall gear, but when you pedal slow, it's like doing one-legged squats over and over for the whole ride. That's going to wear out your leg muscles before your heart n' lungs. Better to use an easier gear and turn it into a cardio effort that you can sustain longer.

MikeyBoyAz

They are called In-line brake levers, they are popular in cyclocross bikes (not necessarily needed for the riders, but popular to be installed on bikes) essentially you remove your cable, cut your housing and add caps to each side of the housing with the brake lever between the housing ends... then you re-string the cable... done

Kind of Blued

No, the first reply, for example, which suggested that the OP may be running out of gears while doing bike rides at a 12 mph average. That's so ridiculous that I would probably want to ignore any other advice given by that person.

fishymamba

DO NOT PUT SHOE GOO ON THE CLEATS!!! For the shoes you got you don't need to put any shoe goo on them.