Just got a new carbon bike, wat do?
#26
King Hoternot
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never been a huge fan of giant, but I like your bike a lot! get some better picts and share when you can!
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Heh, will do. Can you just slice it off with a knife, or is there a better way to get it off?
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#30
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Got myself clear protective tape... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details
and applied it at chain stay, bottom bracket, and forks, etc. (I commute with my CF and people don't necessarily care about other's bike and stack it up). At least BB and Chainstay would be good to do
and applied it at chain stay, bottom bracket, and forks, etc. (I commute with my CF and people don't necessarily care about other's bike and stack it up). At least BB and Chainstay would be good to do
#32
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Sweet looking bike. let me echo other comments - carbon's tougher than you think it is, don't get freaked out when you find the first chip or scratch.
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#33
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Never leave your bike unattended, even with a lock.
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Two wheels good. Four wheels bad.
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Two wheels good. Four wheels bad.
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Sell it before it experiences the inevitable catastrophic failure! There will be no warning! Dental surgery!
...
Just kidding. Cool bike. Ride it a lot.
...
Just kidding. Cool bike. Ride it a lot.
#36
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The dork disk is usually brittle enough to break off with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Don't try to burn it off. There is an epic BF post on this technique.
Don't try to burn it off. There is an epic BF post on this technique.
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Originally Posted by chaulky61
Sweet looking bike - very nice! (And to avoid the wrath of the BF masses, you may want to get rid of the "dork disc" and put the chain on the big ring prior to your white garage door photo session)
Originally Posted by lpolliard
The dork disk is usually brittle enough to break off with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Don't try to burn it off. There is an epic BF post on this technique.
Don't try to burn it off. There is an epic BF post on this technique.
Last edited by ChucklesKY; 12-14-11 at 05:16 PM.
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ChucklesKY is correct. But if you don't have a cassette removal tool and chainwhip, you can get it off with tin snips. Just be careful not to snip a spoke.
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Originally Posted by ChucklesKY
Probably the BEST thing is to remove the freewheel, slide it off, then reinstall the freewheel. Only takes a minute. Of course you need a freewheel removal tool.
In case the OP actually does go out and buy the tools.
Or he could just bring his bike shop a 6 pack and they'd be more than happy to do it.
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Well, I do have easy access to liquid nitrogen...
One thing I have noticed is that there is that the rear derailer already needs adjustment, although it's not very bad at the moment; I was told this is due to the internal cable routing, so they couldn't stretch the cables much when building them.
Is this something I need to go in immediately to get adjusted, or can it wait a bit (presumably allowing it to stretch a bit more); I've only put in ~2 hours on the bike so far (I know, I know...... but work has conspired against me this week).
One thing I have noticed is that there is that the rear derailer already needs adjustment, although it's not very bad at the moment; I was told this is due to the internal cable routing, so they couldn't stretch the cables much when building them.
Is this something I need to go in immediately to get adjusted, or can it wait a bit (presumably allowing it to stretch a bit more); I've only put in ~2 hours on the bike so far (I know, I know...... but work has conspired against me this week).
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Ah yes. I will probably buy one in the future, although at the moment I don't really have the time to learn enough about working on the bike; I'd rather pawn that work off on someone else (and would gladly trade a 6 pack, etc...)
#43
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#44
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Well, I do have easy access to liquid nitrogen...
One thing I have noticed is that there is that the rear derailer already needs adjustment, although it's not very bad at the moment; I was told this is due to the internal cable routing, so they couldn't stretch the cables much when building them.
Is this something I need to go in immediately to get adjusted, or can it wait a bit (presumably allowing it to stretch a bit more); I've only put in ~2 hours on the bike so far (I know, I know...... but work has conspired against me this week).
One thing I have noticed is that there is that the rear derailer already needs adjustment, although it's not very bad at the moment; I was told this is due to the internal cable routing, so they couldn't stretch the cables much when building them.
Is this something I need to go in immediately to get adjusted, or can it wait a bit (presumably allowing it to stretch a bit more); I've only put in ~2 hours on the bike so far (I know, I know...... but work has conspired against me this week).
#45
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#46
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You need this. https://www.parktool.com/product/spro...hain-whip-sr-1
And this. https://www.parktool.com/product/freewheel-remover-fr-5g
And a BIG crescent wrench!
Then you could take the "dork disc" off and preserve its integrity. . . . .so that you may sell it on ebay!
And this. https://www.parktool.com/product/freewheel-remover-fr-5g
And a BIG crescent wrench!
Then you could take the "dork disc" off and preserve its integrity. . . . .so that you may sell it on ebay!
#47
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I could be, but I dont think I am. It's clicking just a touch on the center years (and yes, I'm trimming the FD; I'm pretty sure the noise is coming from the rear anyway....)
#48
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nice paint scheme, black and white, just like my CAAD 10
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Can somebody put in the link of the attempt to remove the dork disc with fire? I'm too lazy to do a search. . . .just being honest.
Actually I did a quick search but couldn't find it. Not sure exactly how to search for THAT!
Actually I did a quick search but couldn't find it. Not sure exactly how to search for THAT!
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