M_Wales

Anyone have a link to these in the states?

https://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/...brake_calipers

Thanks

SebastionMerckx

This is the link to the ultra light ones but they do not have the forged ones listed on the US site.
https://www.planet-x-usa.com/pCNC%20U...ht-Brakes.aspx

I just bought the forged ones for a backup bike and they came in at 216 so you should just grab the UK ones like I did and save a bit. I received them in less than 5 days.

M_Wales

The CNC ones in the states would cost me $132.61 shipped and the forged ones would cost $106.57 shipped. May as well just buy the lighter CNC ones with more colors to choose from...

SebastionMerckx

Can't argue with that!

Biscayne05

Just got the CNCs from the US site.

canam73

You can get the forged for less money delivered in 5 days? And people opt for cnc?

M_Wales

How do you both like the brakes? Do they have good stopping power?


Since the forged ones come from the UK the shipping makes them $106 and for $26 more I can get the CNC ones here in the US.

I know the CNC one is a little lighter, but Is one better/stronger than the other?

Thanks everyone...

canam73

I'll let you be the judge: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/dp-forging.html

I personally only use dual pivot forged calipers and don't have an issue with 300-350g weight so the extra 25 grams for the forged version seems like a non-issue to me. Maybe you'd never know the difference in use but if the forging gave you an extra ounce of power the one time you really needed it...well it would be worth it for me. They're still only 230gms.

noise boy

I have those brakes branded as Mr Control on my bike, I use swiss stop pads and have never had any braking power issues with them. I will say that due to their single pivotness that they are harder to set up than dual pivot calipers.

SebastionMerckx

I think they both stop just about the same, really. I've had no issues with either. I can lock both up easily if I so desire. They are a bit of a bi&^h to set up but done correctly, they both stop very well. The forged ones often come in well under 230 grams so usually it ends up being about a 20 gram difference.

Dcmkx2000

What makes these brakes so hard to setup?

How do you release these to take off a wheel?

SebastionMerckx

They really aren't that hard to setup at all. You need to have a flat wrench on the center bolt and once you decide you have it where you want it centering wise, simply finish tightening the back bolt with the special star wrench they provide you with. As far as taking the wheels out, just simply grab either side of the brakes and squeeze them together then slip out the little barrel that the cable is crimped in. You can also further center the brakes by tightening or loosening a very tiny allen headed bolt that's found on the side of the brake and tensions the spring.

If you still have trouble with figuring out what I'm saying, I'd be happy to make a few short cellphone videos to show you what I mean.

Biscayne05

My 3rd party shipper lost all of my instructions.

those videos would help me out A LOT.

SebastionMerckx

OK, I'll post some short video links.

coolmingli

Would you upload to youtube so all of us can see it? I am also thinking about getting a pair of these brakes.

SebastionMerckx

I'll upload several short ones onto photobucket and get the link back in just a bit(I suggested text because my phone doesn't record long videos).

SebastionMerckx

Releasing the brakes:
https://s238.photobucket.com/albums/f...-37-06_292.mp4

Installing the brakes with cone wrench and wrench that comes with the brakes:
https://s238.photobucket.com/albums/f...-43-38_781.mp4

Length of housing to make sure cable recenters:
https://s238.photobucket.com/albums/f...-49-26_642.mp4

Installing the cable in the barrel:
https://s238.photobucket.com/albums/f...-45-21_632.mp4

Using the centering screw on side of brake if it isn't centered:
https://s238.photobucket.com/albums/f...-47-32_813.mp4

Apologies for the crude videos but the phone I'm using(smart phone is broken), only shoots short videos. If you have any further questions after viewing these, feel free to ask. I would have put these on Youtube but for some reason they weren't wanting to go tonight.

As you can see in the video, it's crucial to even out the brake sides before you tighten them down and then use the cone wrench to keep the bolt in place at the spot where the brake sides are even while you tighten down the retaining bolt in back. It's also very important to make sure your cable housing is not too long.

Additionally, the hardest part of this whole process is grabbing and compressing the brakes and then installing the cable and tightening it down in the barrel adjuster. For that part it might be handy to have someone there to assist you.

As far as centering goes, the little bolt I showed you on the side simply applies more or less pressure on that side to compensate for you not quite having it centered. You really shouldn't have to adjust it much but you probably will need to adjust it slightly.
I hope this helps you all out.

coolmingli

Thank you, good stuff, really appreciated.

Biscayne05

Thanks man. I really really appreciate the effort.

SebastionMerckx

You both are more than welcome.I'm glad I could help, however much that was.

zigmeister

I had a set of these. Hated them.

2 things.

1) The quick release, seems like it would work easily. I don't know, it isn't intuitive and a PITA that lever design.

2) More importantly, it will ruin and destroy your cable. You run the brake cable through a small hole in the black slip cable piece. Not shown in any photos. Then you turn the screw against the cable to hold it into place with force. This round black piece is what ends up sitting, via force/tension in that Red lever. I think you see the problem here, your tighten a screw against a cable and it hammers the cable with the tiny screw head and ends up destroying the cable by fraying and horribly flattening it in a 2-3mm length. Plus, it easily slips when you pull hard on the brakes. This also adds to the fraying and destruction of the cable. Bad design.

Compare the curved channel design on SRAM/Shimano brakes which apply pressure across a longer portion of the cable, plus it is curved/rounded more to the shape of the cable, so not to destory the cable.

Good luck.

2ndGen

SebastionMerckx

While I can understand what you're saying, I've now installed these on four different bikes(two ultra lights pairs and two recent forged ones) between mine and friends and not one has ruined a cable. Additionally, we all regularly ride down extremely steep roads where we often need to brake hard and fast. Not one time have any of us experienced any slipping of the cable. I'd say between the four bikes, there's perhaps 25-30 k total mileage while using the brakes. I'm not trying to diminish what you're saying but I've had no issues with them at all.

2ndGen

I agree.

Actually, I've figured mine out. My LBS can't center them still.
So, if they ever work on my bike, I always finish do the brakes myself.

Other than that, I think it's well worth the effort.
For the price (and even when compared to brakes costing more),
the PX Ultralight CNC's just cannot be beat for weight and performance.

SebastionMerckx

I agree, the value considering weight and looks, really makes these a solid buy in my opinion. The more pairs I've installed, the easier it's become really. I also get really good life out of the pads. As far as centering goes, as you know, there is definitely a step by step process involved. Housing length, center bolt, and tension adjuster on the side are all just as important as the other. Once you get them set, you never have to worry with them again. Good for you figuring out something your LBS couldn't!