I don't know that I agree with this position.

In the case of a bicycle which is obviously set up for criterium or short course racing, a single cage is perfectly acceptable and even part of "the look". However, a single cage should never be used in combination with a frame pump or saddle bag of any form. For "the look" to work it has to be an obvious short event setup.

...which the bike in question was not. :)

That said, in lieu of a specific rule, would not a determination of hot or not be in the eye of the beholder?

Indeed.

And in the eye of the community as a whole. Hence this thread and its de facto voting.

I was simply pointing out that while you presented a view as somewhat factual, it is infact case specific and there are exceptions to that view.

I think we both agree that a bike needs to be true to it's purpose. It would make no sense and subsequently not be "hot" to dress a Roubaix up as though it were going crit racing. While that same bike could look smokin' with some bulbous 4 season tires, double cages, double bar wrap, even a frame pump, etc. Likewise a Venge needs deep section wheels and to be free of any extraneous rubbish if it's going to remain true to it's purpose and garner many hots.

One thing is sure. Within this thread must one not have a thin skin, nor, be afraid of criticism or debate.

Agreed!

Just got it back. They warranted the Shifter. now the biggest problem is the RD not returning to position. It seems to be bent so it does not spring back. This creates serious slack on the chain and makes it slap against the chainstay constantly :(... gonna try to bend it back with pliers!

I get seriously offended ALL the time... I just act like I don't :D

??? The stem is set up for my riding position and none of this is set up just for the thread, but as far as HOT or Not thread, it is set where it should be. It's exactly set at level with the ground or should I say with a 0 degree rise. Other than taking out spacers and dropping it further, it should be good to go for pictures. LOL... I enjoy the criticism either way. I do plan on changing out the saddle as this one is not for me (uncomfortable), and will replace with a black one and change my bar tape out to black when that time comes.

I said "stems", referring to your tubes. They're misaligned.

Good. Pull up your big boy undies, 'cause I'm about to outwardly insult you in a big way.

WTF? You're still half assing around! Are you ever going to get serious about fixing the issue (issue's' it now appears)? How did the bike get handed back to you by the LBS mechanic? "Here's your bike, I installed the new lever. The rest of your shifting issues are yours to sort out."?

Before you busted the front lever and rear derailleur, you already had front shifting issues. Just because you've now got an even bigger rear issue, the front issues probably won't have disappeared.

Why did you not spring for new big ring, front derailleur and chain while the bike was in the shop? And now, add rear derailleur to that list.

Instead you collected a non-functional bike, which you've previously proven you were lacking the patience and aptitude to fix.

Good grief.

Definately "NOT" the hot way to solve your bike's issues.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=362156http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=362157Rode around a little today with the new saddle, able to stretch out a lot better since I last got off the bike this fall. This weekend should be warm enough for a real ride finally!

Ok I am going to give this reply a go... I am pertly at fault for this. I am being cheap on this bike just because I've already spent a ton on the TCR. I should have bought a new FD and RD. and I probably will in a few days.

1) when putting the PM I had a few mishaps with the chain dropped to the outside since FD was not properly set and chain length was not adequate. This meant drops to the outside which completely messed the FD cage... the FD still works properly if set well within its limits.

2) The bike tipped over bending the arm of the RD. This completely prohibits the RD from retracting once it's gone into the bigger gears. The chain slaps and I have to manually pull the RD arms where the jokey wheels are. This made the front drops even worse. Now that there was no tension on the chain it was prone to skipping over the big ring ALL THE TIME.

3) Trying to keep the chain in I put the FD really close to the big chain vertically, and the outer limit very very closed in. To shift I had to push the brifter really hard to its limit so it would go to the big ring. this meant shifting without dropping to the outside since the outer cage was so "inside". This is what I think finally broke the shifter.

I am being cheap about fixing it. I want to fix it myself but I think I may have to pull out some extra cash and get the FD and RD brand new. I'll post a vid later.

much Nicer! Hot :). I, however, do not agree with changing a bikes geometry to make it look good. If it works it works. Not point in having a hot bike if you can't ride it.

That's the original stem, I threw the other one on as a test. Gonna buy a 100mm before spring

What a difference.

Huge difference! nice job.

Sorry about the highjack everyone.

My last post on this subject. Luis, let's take this to one of your other threads. But, that information and the video would have been extremely helpful in diagnosing your issues before the TCR build. Then again, doing so might have negated the justification for the new bike.

Are you going to post it over in the unrestricted category?

That's the same bike? Much nicer, good job!

Haha, they're a fun read.

Nicely done!

Saddle looks awfully tilted down in front..

It's a romin evo, they have a weird shape to them but I leveled the saddle by the flat area as advised. Ironically even looking like that the front felt high by a few mm on my ride. I'll be out on it this weekend tweaking and avoiding salt.

I ride the same saddle and it's nowhere near that tilted forward. If it fits you then it's all good, but if your hands are going numb from a lot of forward weight on them then you'll know why :)

I am with shoota on your saddle is still nose down. Level from the nose to midway up the rear rise. I have thousands of miles on Romin saddles, and to work the best, the nose appears slightly up. My cautionary note is that, for me at least, if I have too little saddle to bar drop then I can never get a Romin comfortable. It becomes largely about pelvis rotation.

Well then thank you for the heads up guys, like I said I rode it around very briefly. I will play with it before I head out tomorrow. Hopefully those were thousands of miles that you enjoyed the saddle, I paid a little more than I was comfortable with as opposed to picking up the Selle Italia I was dreaming about.

Haha...I see what you did there and like it. ;-) I also noticed my tire logos don't match up with the valve stems. It seems I am losing here. LOL

I'm going to take another picture soon without all the sun light in the back ground and see if that tones the color down a bit as someone else had posted. I'll make sure the tubes (seat stays??) are aligned properly.