Bike Stem
 

ATB stem or Richey WSC? thinking about picking one up and debating between these 2. I is going to be installed on a road bike. Thanks for the advice in advance.

you're welcome in advance. :D


I don't think ATB is a brand, I think it's All Terrain Bike, or mountainbike. For a while now, most ATBs and road bikes alike use near-identical 31.8mm stems, which is handy because they are interchangeable.

The most important thing about a stem is to get one with the correct length and angle to achieve your desired fit. What don't you like about your current stem, what's driving this need to change?

Assuming you can get a proper fit in either one, let looks and price be your guide.

The reason I want to change is because I have a quill stem and think about changing it. Got a free bike and just doing some cosmetic work on it. Figured I would start there

Planning to run a threadless adaptor?

Looking into the Stem going to get the Ritchey stem but since i am new to this, what is the major difference between the +/- 17 vs the +/- 6? I am confussed a bit by this.

You didn't respond to dtrain's question, which is critical. I'll elaborate.

You have a quill stem. It goes into the steerer tube of a threaded headset. A modern stem clamps onto the steerer tube and uses a threadless headset.


This is not an area you want to walk into uninformed.

+6 = the stem raises the handlebars above the part of the steering tube it's clamped to, at a 6 degree angle.
-6 = the stem lowers the bars at a 6 degree angle
+17 = the stem raises the bars at a 17 degree angle
-17 = the stem lowers the bars at a 17 degree angle

A + and - 6 stem are the same stem; you take it off, flip it upside down, and put it back on. The difference between 6 and 17 degrees is pretty big.

Going from an old quill stem to a modern one isn't trivial. I mean, it's not the hardest thing anyone has ever done, but it's not going to work without an adapter.

Sorry, yes, will be switching over a threadless adapter.

Figured if i am going to do the stem, might as well get informed os everything else that comes with it. Also looked into geting different forks in case that does not work. also, planning to get the bike painted so what a better way to put things on it when the bike is going to be apart. I am toltalling new to this side of bicycling, used to be a bmx'er before.

I'll add to that. Your quill stem is adjustable up and down. If the length is just about right...I'd probably leave it alone for now. There are probably better places to spend money on this free bike (tires, brake pads, pedals, saddle, etc.).

Going to an adapter (about $15 on Nashbar) and more modern stem would open up a range of lengths, angles, and handlebar choices. But I'd put some miles in the saddle before going that route.

I'm a big fan of soma's threaded to threadless adapter (have bought 2 of them). Some don't like the looks or the weight because it's the longest you'll find, but I like raising my bars way up (could be my frame's just too small). The adapter at VeloOrange is rather pretty.

^ Yes. Unless you're fixing a fit issue, you're just going to spend some money to make the bike uglier.

Even if it is fit related, you can still get quills in varying lengths.

I predict this free bike is going to end up costing you a boatload of money.

Are you going to order the stem online, or buy it at a local bike shop ( LBS )? My bike came from an LBS in my neighborhood, but the fit wasn't quite right. I've been experimenting, and they've let me bring my stem back and exchange it for another one a few times until I got exactly the right length, angle, and all that. If you can find a shop that will do the same for you, it'll be easier and less expensive, if you don't get it right the first time.

Here's what a +17 looks like

http://landscapephoto.us/Events/WebSize/IMG_1378.jpg

http://landscapephoto.us/Events/Snoq...0-11_14-51.jpg

Turns out my shoulders were getting sore because the bars were too high, not too low. After lots of fidgeting around, I replaced this with a -6, which looks like this

http://landscapephoto.us/Events/Skyk...-22%5B1%5D.jpg

http://landscapephoto.us/Antipodes-Top-Side-View.JPG

I shouldn't admit to something so Fredly as having run a +17. People will make fun of me for it. Anyway, you won't be able to pick the right fit from seeing pictures of other peoples' bikes, but I'm hoping this will give you a better idea of the difference between +/- 6 and +/- 17, since you asked.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=237483



This is the bike, for some reason it will not let me make the picture bigger

Thanks for the pictures, that helps me see the difference between the 2 on actual bikes instead of seeing the stems side by side. Somone on craigslist is selling the Ritchey stem for 30 dollars, the +/-6 and also selling the +/-17 for 20. figured that was a reasonable deal.

Buy 'em both. It looks like you could carry two or three extra stems around in that suitcase underneth the saddle. Maybe swap one out mid-ride to feel the difference. :p

Honestly though - since you are new to this - just ride the bike for a few months and save your money. If you really like the feel of road cycling, buy a better bike (with integrated shifting and carbon fork) and sell this Trek. Just my advice, because the bike is decent as is. Glad you are excited about getting on the road. Good luck whichever route you go...

you'll need new bars to go along with this new stem and threadless adaptor.

my advice: put no money into that bike other than consumables (bar tape, chain lube, tubes, tires). save your money for the next thing. if there is no next thing, it's not because of that bike.

people can get hooked on vintage-- start a lifetime of cycling-- but you shouldn't be trying to modernize vintage. that just doesn't make sense.

I think the store has the Ritchey stem for about $30 new.

If you're dead set on doing this, here's a different route you should think about taking. A lot of people buy an "adjustable" stem, figure out where they need the bars exactly, and then get a normal stem that puts them there. Something like this

http://www.ritcheylogic.com/dimg/thm...ee50683d0d.jpg

It's ugly, heavier than a normal stem, and it'll creak a little when you stand up climbing very steep hills. That's why nobody wants to keep one on their bike. On the other hand, it costs about $35, which is less than buying both a 6 and 17 degree stem on CL. If you wind up needing, say, a 10 degree angle, you save money in the long run. ( Of course, there's also length to worry about. )

But I agree with the other people in here, that this isn't going to get you the most bang for your buck.

Ok, makes sense to me now. Thanks for the advice everyone. Going to ride this bike for some months and the go from there. If i like it enough, then i will invest on a new bike or just make one of my own. Will see where the road take me.

I've found this pretty useful for comparing stems: http://alex.phred.org/stemchart/Default.aspx

also, a frequent issue with new cyclists is saddle discomfort. make sure your saddle is level, or very near it, and just keep riding. your butt will hurt, and you might have some numbness. when you keep riding you should notice that the pain and numbness takes longer and longer to set in.

almost everyone goes for a new saddle too early.

Cool, will do. I guess the only modern thing i will do to the bike is get it painted, since a friend offered to do it at his work at no expense.