Juan Foote

The BB30 on my bike has started making noises and I am considering my repair/replace options. I understand that if I go with a Shimano crankset that I will have to buy some adapter that converts the BB30 into the correct bearings. I have done a bit of reading concerning the fix for the noise issues and they seem to indicate that with the proper application of threadlock compound the noise will go away, even with the BB30.

With that said, I have FSA Gossamers. I am not wholly unimpressed with them, but am considering moving to what seems universally more accepted as a better crankset with superior shifting in the 105. I have spent a lot of time working on my FD, so the shifting isn't too bad either. Where my concern lies is this. I have about 2000 miles on this crankset and I am already hearing these noises. It seems through my reading that people chase this issue around with little result as far as eliminating it. If I move to the adapters and the 105 will I avoid that noise alltogether, or is it just as likely to come back in spite of the adapters?
Is there a level of BB quality where it involves BB30? For instance there are 105 BB and Ultegra BB where one is better than the other.

WhyFi

...not that I want to get in the way of rationalizing a new purchase, but contrary to popular BF belief, it's possible to install a BB30 crankset properly, even without loctite (GASP!), and not have it creak.

Juan Foote

Well, do share. I purchased this bike with 400 miles on it. Before I took it, the bike was completely disassembled and put back together after a thorough cleaning and servicing by a trained and accredited mechanic. I am not a powerful rider at all, but I do develop power mostly in one leg, so it puts unusual forces on the BB I would imagine. I swapped from another brand to Shimano on my previous bike and was very impressed with the difference, and those were Tiagra. If there is no possibility of the "creak" with the adapters it is pretty much a done deal...but if the creak can come back just as easily, thus why I asked about quality levels of replacement BB30 parts.

M_Wales

I'm using a KCNC BB30 adapter with my Ultegra crankset and have had no problems at all with it.

https://fairwheelbikes.com/kcnc-bb30-...et-p-2926.html

Dilberto

Short Answer = Loctite #620 on BB30 shell...creaking is history. NEVER downgrade from BB30. But, if you absolutely MUST - Wheels Mfg Shimano adapters are the BEST:

Campag4life

Best answer. OP research the best Loctite for your particular bike. #620 maybe fine. Loctite comes in a variety of different formulations. You want the green stuff that isn't permanent. Running BB30 without Loctite is 50/50 whether it will creak or not. Yours does. Generally prospensity to creak versus not is a function of level of press which is based upon the build tolerances of your BB and to a lessor extent the tolerances of the bearing O.D. Loctite is simple. Be sure to thoroughly clean the shell cups with alcohol before applying. Use the Part press tool to ensure bearings are fully seated. Btw...your creaking maybe do to poor bearings. There is a grade variation in BB30 bearings out there...ABEC 5 are MUCH better than ABEC 1.
Its all in the set up really. As well stated, don't move backwards and adapt a non BB30 to your bike. Likely the cranks have little to do with your issue...but keep in mind that loose chainrings can creak as well...or even the left arm of the crank if improperly installed. Set up is big.
PS: one of the reasons for all the creaks reported with BB30 is not related to the bearings but how the crank is installed. With insufficent axial preload...wave washer under some compression which may require a bit of spacing...the inner race of your bearings wont' preload the balls and they will rattle. It doesn't necessarily have anything to do with the bearing outer races creaking in their respective BB bores. Hope that makes sense.

Juan Foote

I would have to try and convey that, luckily there is interwebz at work, so I can show this to the mechanic. I am curious as to a couple of comments made regarding BB30 as better than the "older" BB types. If it is such an improvement, why is Shimano not embracing it and making cranks to fit the standard, rather than having to use adapters?
It is really unfortunate that the next step in a BB30 crank worth considering appears to be the SL-K light crankset at over ~500. If I am gonna put out that kind of cheese I would stick with Dura Ace or Ultegra, adapters or not.
If what you mentioned truly IS a fix, then I will more than happily use the FSA cranks I have now. This light ping/squeak/creak thing every time I go up a hill is pretty ridiculous.

grwoolf

I got a BB30 frame in November, it came with adapters that worked fine with my existing Ultegra crank. I got a great deal on a SRAM red crank on Craigslist and got the GXP version of the adapters. I've got about 2,500 miles with no issues, but time will tell.

I have not spent any significant hours on a bike with a true BB30 crank, but I question BB30's real benefits. I guess I can see it for people that obsess about bike weight, but that's not my thing since I'm pushing 180lbs. If I was buying a brand new crank, I would probably go with an actual BB30, but I seriously doubt I'd feel any benefits over the current setup.

WhyFi

You can pick up Red cranks well under that and Force cranks for less than half. I went from Gossamer to Force; shifting under load is noticeably improved (and it's quite a bit lighter).

Juan Foote

I went ahead and ordered the 105's today, with the adapters and a 105 BB. I work with a bike shop, so my discount made it a non-issue where it concerned price vs. performance.

Campag4life

Just so you know and you were told this, your crank has little do with creaking. That said, I would say that most that put Shimano cranks on a BB30 bike have good luck. The technical reason is two fold:
1. Shimano cranks have adustable axial preload...versus relying on a wave washer.
2. The plastic adapters used for the 24mm spindle are natural sound deadners. The reduces the vibration signature of the bearings and hence knocking or clicking is less audible.

You did end up spending money needlessly however. BB30 cranks are simple. With proper installation they are quiet.
PS: There are three reasons BB30's creak:
1. Bearings shift in bores due to pedal forces. This is due to insufficient press or improper bedding at installation. Easily resolved with Loctite.
2. Insufficent axial preload. Without adequate preload of the bearing inner race...the balls will rattle or click
3. Bad bearings. Lots of BB30's are sold with poor bearing quality. If you put a ABEC 1 and ABEC 5 BB30 bearing in your hand, you can physically feel the difference in the bearing clearances and rolling resistance.

roadwarrior

You figured it out? Congrats!

All of mine are BB30 without issue. But then we know what we are doing.

Good job.

roadwarrior

More good information.

Juan Foote

That is good information, thank you. Yes, I do understand the adapters, or BB could still make noise in spite of the conversion.

echotraveler

i suggest, getting a BB30 crank...no need for adapters...

Juan Foote

Thanks for the suggestion, but I have already made a choice based on personal preference for cranks. Done deal.