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Need More Top End Speed

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Old 04-04-12, 08:41 PM
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Need More Top End Speed

Hello again everyone.

So, I'm running into problems, not really problem problems, but, as the title suggest, I'm running out of gear on my top end. I've already been persuaded to stick with my current components since they still have plenty of life in them therefore don't feel that I necessarily need to upgrade to an 11speed set-up, which is my eventual plan.

Right now, I have a 9speed cassette, 12-25 configuration, with a compact front cog. Is having an 11T small cog really going to make that much of a difference? Or, should I just go for it and switch to 11 speed and a standard front? I'm seeing some reasonably priced used equipment on eBay...

Thanks!
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Old 04-04-12, 08:44 PM
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what are you running in the front
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Old 04-04-12, 08:52 PM
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Compact, 50/34. I hesitate in changing the chainrings cause if I'm gonna change, I may as well go all the way and switch to an 11speed crankset...

Going from 12t to 11t seems like an ultra affordable and easy solution. If it would indeed make that much of a difference. I assume 1t isn't really gonna do it though...
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Old 04-04-12, 08:54 PM
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are you really going 50 mph?
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Old 04-04-12, 08:57 PM
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Depending on the crank, you should be able to put a 52/36 on your crank.
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Old 04-04-12, 09:02 PM
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you have baby gears on the front ...throw a couple of 53/45 gears on run a nice 78 rpm at 25
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Old 04-04-12, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Bianchi Ben
Compact, 50/34. I hesitate in changing the chainrings cause if I'm gonna change, I may as well go all the way and switch to an 11speed crankset...

Going from 12t to 11t seems like an ultra affordable and easy solution. If it would indeed make that much of a difference. I assume 1t isn't really gonna do it though...
An 11 speed drivetrain will not make you faster, it just puts the cogs closer together. 11-speed is also kinda irrelevant in regard to your crank/chainrings except to say that those need to be able to accommodate the narrower 11-speed chain.

An 11t cog will give you 3MPH over your current 12t @ 100 RPM. Changing your current crank to a standard (while leaving the rest of your drivetrain unchanged) will give you an extra 2MPH @ 100 RPM.

If you aren't already spinning at 90+ RPM, then that is the majority of your problem right there. Use a GEAR CALCULATOR to help yourself out...
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Old 04-04-12, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jsutkeepspining
are you really going 50 mph?
I know where you're coming from, what do I need with that much top-end? There's a particular part of a ride I do normally and running a compact front I do run out of gear, and its really annoying to want to keep accelerating and not being able to...

Originally Posted by Vlaam4ever
Depending on the crank, you should be able to put a 52/36 on your crank.
Yeah, I suppose I could... But like I mentioned, if I'm gonna spend the money on new chainrings, I may as well just start changing to 11 speed. No? Plus, I like having 34 in front with 9speed, as much time I spend in the small cogs, I spend about double in the large cogs. Although in responding to your suggestion and really thinking about my set-up and my rides lately, I probably could survive my climbs with a 36T small front... Interesting... Maybe 9speed 52/36 with 11/25 might be the ticket. hmmmm
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Old 04-04-12, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Bianchi Ben
But like I mentioned, if I'm gonna spend the money on new chainrings, I may as well just start changing to 11 speed. No?
Dude. No.

You're talking about two things. 1) Changing a crank Vs. 2) Changing your entire drivetrain.... front derailleur, rear derailleur, crank, cassette, shifters, chain, etc.
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Old 04-04-12, 09:20 PM
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My mistake, by the way, I'm at 50/36...

Originally Posted by muzpuf
you have baby gears on the front ...throw a couple of 53/45 gears on run a nice 78 rpm at 25
50/45?! hahahaa, Are you nuts?! I enjoy climbing way too much to run a 45T small cog. My starter bike is a 6 speed Peugeot with 52/42. I survived climbs, but that about it, survived.

Originally Posted by MegaTom
An 11 speed drivetrain will not make you faster, it just puts the cogs closer together. 11-speed is also kinda irrelevant in regard to your crank/chainrings except to say that those need to be able to accommodate the narrower 11-speed chain.

An 11t cog will give you 3MPH over your current 12t @ 100 RPM. Changing your current crank to a standard (while leaving the rest of your drivetrain unchanged) will give you an extra 2MPH @ 100 RPM.

If you aren't already spinning at 90+ RPM, then that is the majority of your problem right there. Use a GEAR CALCULATOR to help yourself out...
Thanks for the link and advice. Unfortunately I haven't measured my cadence yet...
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Old 04-04-12, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by MegaTom
Dude. No.

You're talking about two things. 1) Changing a crank Vs. 2) Changing your entire drivetrain.... front derailleur, rear derailleur, crank, cassette, shifters, chain, etc.
Yeah, I understand that part. I'll need to change the whole shebang. In my frivolous spending frame of mind I rationalize it as, If I'm gonna change my crank, why not change to something now, that I'll eventually end up with anyway... I'm crazy, I know!
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Old 04-04-12, 09:25 PM
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And thanks to everyone again as well, you've helped me, once again, down from the edge of unnecessary spending!!
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Old 04-04-12, 09:26 PM
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Well, a 52t chainring, and a cassette with a 11t cog will give a significant increase in top-end speed at minimal cost. I would start with just the cassette, and if that's not enough, get the chainrings.
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Old 04-04-12, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Bianchi Ben
Thanks for the link and advice. Unfortunately I haven't measured my cadence yet...
No problem, and cadence is key. Get yourself a cheap-o wireless computer with a cadence sensor before anything else. With a good spin you should be topping out at close to 35MPH on your current setup.... not such a bad speed for most people on the flats. Of course I could see where you might want a little bit more for bombing down those hills, but I think you can probably do better for yourself to upgrade the engine before the transmission in this case.... if you're mashing (pedaling hard @ slow cadence), you can be doing major damage to your knees.
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Old 04-04-12, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by MegaTom
No problem, and cadence is key. Get yourself a cheap-o wireless computer with a cadence sensor before anything else. With a good spin you should be topping out at close to 35MPH on your current setup.... not such a bad speed for most people on the flats. Of course I could see where you might want a little bit more for bombing down those hills, but I think you can probably do better for yourself to upgrade the engine before the transmission in this case.... if you're mashing (pedaling hard @ slow cadence), you can be doing major damage to your knees.
I don't go too crazy on the flats, and although I don't have my cadence measurements, I am very conscious of what I feel my peak cadence is, and rarely over-extend myself in respect to that personal comfortable cadence. People say I'm a strong rider for my inexperience, but I definitely don't mash gears. This is my ride from yesterday. I was going hard at this one: https://app.strava.com/rides/6175461
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Old 04-04-12, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by MegaTom
No problem, and cadence is key. Get yourself a cheap-o wireless computer with a cadence sensor before anything else. With a good spin you should be topping out at close to 35MPH on your current setup.... not such a bad speed for most people on the flats. Of course I could see where you might want a little bit more for bombing down those hills, but I think you can probably do better for yourself to upgrade the engine before the transmission in this case.... if you're mashing (pedaling hard @ slow cadence), you can be doing major damage to your knees.
I have been mashing for 30 years and am still waiting for my knees to go out ... I always grin as I pass you eggbeaters on the tours
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Old 04-04-12, 09:43 PM
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So, to review current revelations, it looks as though I should get a 52T chainring and an 11T cog. I assume I will need a new chain? Or no? Current setup being 50/36
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Old 04-04-12, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by muzpuf
I have been mashing for 30 years and am still waiting for my knees to go out ... I always grin as I pass you eggbeaters on the tours
hahaha, "eggbeaters" that's funny. To that point, I only use my small cog for climbing, and have found that I've developed enough legs that I can use my big/big combo for some climbs now too.
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Old 04-04-12, 09:51 PM
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im a big fan of a all out assault of a hill then mashing up the rest of the way until my cadence drops then dropping down
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Old 04-04-12, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by muzpuf
im a big fan of a all out assault of a hill then mashing up the rest of the way until my cadence drops then dropping down
I'll get there one of these days. As of now, I like to keep a steady cadence with controlled breathing up a hill.
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Old 04-04-12, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Bianchi Ben
So, to review current revelations, it looks as though I should get a 52T chainring and an 11T cog. I assume I will need a new chain? Or no? Current setup being 50/36
No need to necessarily do both at once. The change to an 11T cog will have twice as much of an effect on your high gear compared to the switch from 50T to 52T on the chainring. So you could change the cog and then decide if you still need to change the chainring.

No need for a new chain just for the smaller cog (assuming the largest cog stays the same) and if you switch to a 52T chainring you'd only need a longer chain if the current one is almost at the limit when in the big/big combination.

I'd try it with the current chain with the bike on a stand and gently turn the pedals by hand while changing into the big/big combination. If it goes in ok without binding then you don't need to replace the chain.
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Old 04-04-12, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by prathmann
No need to necessarily do both at once. The change to an 11T cog will have twice as much of an effect on your high gear compared to the switch from 50T to 52T on the chainring. So you could change the cog and then decide if you still need to change the chainring.

No need for a new chain just for the smaller cog (assuming the largest cog stays the same) and if you switch to a 52T chainring you'd only need a longer chain if the current one is almost at the limit when in the big/big combination.

I'd try it with the current chain with the bike on a stand and gently turn the pedals by hand while changing into the big/big combination. If it goes in ok without binding then you don't need to replace the chain.
Thanks. I know for the chainring I need to look for a 110BCD, since that's what I have on my current. Is there anything special I have to look for in cassette cogs? I have a Shimano Tiagra cassette, will any Shimano cog work?
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Old 04-04-12, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Bianchi Ben
Thanks. I know for the chainring I need to look for a 110BCD, since that's what I have on my current. Is there anything special I have to look for in cassette cogs? I have a Shimano Tiagra cassette, will any Shimano cog work?
Most any 9-speed Shimano or Sram cassette will work just fine.
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Old 04-05-12, 09:08 AM
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get lower.
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Old 04-05-12, 09:38 AM
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Adjusting the gearing is the way to go for this need. I expect you will need a chain, cassette, outer chainring(if you can fit it one on your crank). You'll also need to adjust your FD, may need to adjust your RD also. this is worth a trip to the LBS and a quick pow-wow with the mechanic.

I would only upgrade the drivetrain if you want to shed weight or need to replace multiple items such as shifters, derailuers etc. as they wear out or break etc. a group upgrade is expensive and will not neccessary meet your needs as described above.
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