I keep teetering between buying a new bike or not
 

This is my current bike (saddle and pedals upgraded, but wheels and handlebars are stock):

http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2009/archive/12

When I first bought this bike, I didn't want to spend too much money because I wasn't sure if I would really like cycling. Now I do, and I feel like I'm starting to "outgrow" this bike.

However, I do like this ride and aside from a couple of minor issues that pop up every now and then, this bike has had no major problems.

As for the reasons why I would want to buy a new bike - I'm not interested in the bling factor and don't want to overspend on a new bike when my Trek is already a decent ride (and it has excellent reviews). But I have been wondering about these things:

1. Shifting. I don't know what "smooth" shifting is because this bike is all I know. But some shifting issues has been creeping up lately and I'm starting to wonder how smoothly other bikes shift. I will try cheaper and easier fixes first, though... like replacing the cables and see if the shifting gets better.

2. Weight. When I was helping one of my riding buddies with his bike and putting the chain back on the chainring, I lifted his bike and was shocked how light it was. By comparison, my bike is a good 5-10 lbs heavier than his bike. I know, weight doesn't really matter when it comes to speed on flats, but I wonder if my endurance would improve on longer rides if I didn't have to push all that extra weight for so long?

3. Frame. I got my Trek because I wanted to do the MS 150, an endurance ride and I told the salesman that I didn't really care about speed. But now I want to get faster and improve my avg speed, maybe my needs with respect to the bike frame / geometry have changed? But I would be disappointed and a little pissed if I blew $2500 on a new bike and only gained 0.2 mph in average speed for the same effort spent.

Continue riding my Trek into the ground and focus on my motor, or go ahead and buy a new bike (when my $$ situation allows)?

If you only want to go faster you should work on the motor. If you want to be more comfortable get a new bike. Yes a carbon bike is a softer ride over the aluminium Trek.

No harm in a test ride.

How many miles are on your chain and cassette? I would look there before cables in regards to shifting issues. Also when was the last time you cleaned and lubed the drivetrain? Simply doing that can improve the issue if you don't do it enough.

That said get a new bike if you want one. Yes you can get one that is a lot lighter...but don't count on it to make you faster.

Personally, I am permanently teetering between buying a new bike or not, and I already own four of the things. For the last couple of years I have resisted the temptation, but it's only a matter of time.

FWIW, weight does matter. It matters most in the climbs, though and if you are mainly a flatlander there's no point in pretending that you'll see dramatic increases in speed for the lighter bike. If you are racing, that might be a different matter - a half-mile per hour is well worth having, then.

Unless money isn't an issue, and given that you seem pretty happy with your bike for now, I'd focus on the engine and maybe plan on a new bike in another year or so? You'll be stronger then, you'll have had time to save some money towards the purchase, and you can spend a lot of happy hours between now and then thinking about what you'd most like in a new bike and which models will meet your requirements.

Living in Houston, weight won't matter much.

I'd say you have 3 valid reasons to upgrade:
1) You want nicer components and slicker shifting
2) You want a more comfortable ride (ie, a carbon bike such as a Roubaix or similar)
3) you have bike lust.

Either way I doubt a new bike will make you more than 0.1-0.2mph faster unless it ends up changing your riding position (which you could probably just as easily do on your trek).

You should get a new bike that you like better and keep the old one as a backup so you're never completely down if something breaks on one bike. Fix the shifting issues, tune it up, and replace/refurbish the wear items on it to learn wrenching.

I say, keep your current bike (if you haven't already ridden the hell out of it) and just upgrade the drive train. Get 105's instead of the current Sora's you have.

Keep your money. What you're thinking about spending on a new bike is the minimum investment in most mutual funds. For context's sake...

Weight doesn't matter on the flats, and having a lighter bike won't make the difference between a long ride and a "call of shame." Also, unless you're climbing mountain roads, a lighter bike won't make you noticeably faster.

I can't tell you what's wrong with the shifting on your bike lately, but if a tune up and new cables can't fix it, you could replace the whole drive train for a lot less than a new bike will cost.

Unless you can budget out $2k for a new bike, the gains will be somewhat muted that you'd better save up until you clear that ~$2k line to make it really justifiable.

And leave your credit card at home if you decide to test ride anyway. It's really easy to get caught up in "new paint disease".

Satisfying these assumptions:
You are an adult. You have a job. You have the money.

These are rationalizations:
Shifting. Weight. Frame

What you want:
Validation

Remember that time when you were a kid and you wanted that Red Ryder BB gun and everyone kept telling you that you will shoot your eye out? Forget all that crap, buy a new bike and treat yourself. This is not a matter of need, this is a want. If you want a new bike, get a new bike.













Oh, and post pics of the new bike :D

build a new bike from scratch.

Yeah! I would suggest that you start with this, the Eclipse frame:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=244715

Go to your LBS and test ride a few. If you enjoy whatever you test ride and have the means to afford a new bike then by all means buy it.

just upgrade the drivetrain.

or buy a new bike and put a smile on your face.

This is the wrong place to ask for people to talk you out of buying a new bike. N+1 is alive and well here!

Lighter bikes are much more responsive, nimble and fun.

I ride in The Houston area.

I just got two new ones.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=244719

I went from a $100 Costco MTB to a new Trek 2.1. Sometimes I wonder if I'm any faster :)

Disagree with the first point, agree with the second!

You can get a much better frame with better wheels, 105, Rival or even Force for less than 2 grand and will notice a difference in shifting and initial pickup. You don't have hills in Houston so weight's not important.

Bottom line - if you can afford another bike and it will make you happy, go for it. If you have a hard time justifying the expense, think long and hard about what you need in a bike. As another said, a backup bike is not a bad thing.

But yes, keep the CC at home till you want to buy!!

why 2 of the same make?

If you want to ride a faster average speed, then buy a TT/Tri bike and get properly fitted. Unless you are climbing up mountains, I highly doubt you will see an increase of 0.2 mph in your ride speeds with a different road bike.

depends if he's on the rag or not. Gotta match the mood.

Heyooooo! (41)

Everyone has been talking about how weight doesn't matter nearly as much as you can read on the internet. I agree it doesn't matter much at all, but lighter (higher-end) bikes can be much more fun and higher performance by design. Tube shapes, geometry, material, and components make a huge difference. These can make the most difference:
-How fast you can take a corner with confidence (geometry, tube shapes, tapered head tubes, wheels)
-How well it transfers the force of your pedal strokes to the pavement, minimizing any friction that would take away from forward movement (tires, drivetrain, aerodynamic designs, bearings)
-Getting more comfort from your ride without compromising efficiency (frame design in stays, carbon fiber general, saddles, seatposts)
There are many more aspects that are improved with a higher-end bike.

I'd like to add that weight does matter a lot in the rims and tires because the inertia of the mass there is always moving against the direction it's moving (rotating). Having lighter wheels can save a lot of force.

Take a test ride and feel the difference.

That bike (model, year, color) was my first road bike. I upgraded both derailleurs to 105 and the difference was VERY noticeable. I found that bike very uncomfortable; as in I felt all the vibrations of the road and found it jarring to the point of making me tired after a few miles. Nicer tires help as well. With that said, I put about 2k troublesome miles on it. Upgraded last year to a Trek 2.3 2011.

What is your budget? Upgrade the components to 105 and you'll solve your crappy components problem. Sora is pretty bottom of the food chain. 105 is the sweet spot. Test ride new bikes and see if you can tell the difference.

I have a 1.7c, same frame but with 105/ultegra. Regularly do 200 mile rides on it without any comfort issues.

1.2.... I'd probably get something carbon/105 and keep the 1.2 as the beater bike. Mine has taken a fair amount of abuse and is holding up well.