Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Road Cycling
Reload this Page >

Expected behavior or installation fail?

Search
Notices
Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Expected behavior or installation fail?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-14-12, 06:10 PM
  #1  
Portland Fred
Thread Starter
 
banerjek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,548

Bikes: Custom Winter, Challenge Seiran SL, Fuji Team Pro, Cattrike Road/Velokit, РOS hybrid

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 232 Post(s)
Liked 53 Times in 35 Posts
Expected behavior or installation fail?

Just installed some 6700 levers on my bike today. The right lever works flawlessly, but the left one takes more force than I'd expect to shift into the big ring. The cable does not seem to be binding -- shifts to the small ring are effortless. The RD itself does not appear to be sticking though it takes some force to move it. Cables and housings are all new and let cable slide freely off the bike.

Trim seems to be occurring when I actuate the A lever rather than the B -- i.e. I can half or full shift to a larger ring with one stroke, but hitting the B lever makes it drop to the small ring right away. Is this installation error or expected behavior?
banerjek is offline  
Old 04-14-12, 06:34 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 177
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
my left 6700 lever works the way you describe.
did you mean FD, not RD?
sqroot3 is offline  
Old 04-14-12, 06:37 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
kbro1986's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: phx, az
Posts: 420

Bikes: Ti

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by sqroot3
my left 6700 lever works the way you describe.
did you mean FD, not RD?
He is talking about the FD from what I understand. No problem from going big ring to small. Takes a lot of effort to go from small ring to big. My first guess would be cable tension.
kbro1986 is offline  
Old 04-14-12, 06:50 PM
  #4  
Portland Fred
Thread Starter
 
banerjek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,548

Bikes: Custom Winter, Challenge Seiran SL, Fuji Team Pro, Cattrike Road/Velokit, РOS hybrid

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 232 Post(s)
Liked 53 Times in 35 Posts
Originally Posted by kbro1986
He is talking about the FD from what I understand. No problem from going big ring to small. Takes a lot of effort to go from small ring to big. My first guess would be cable tension.
Correct. From what I can tell, cable tension is set properly as it does not work as well if it's loosened or tightened.
banerjek is offline  
Old 04-14-12, 06:54 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
kbro1986's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: phx, az
Posts: 420

Bikes: Ti

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Yeah, unfortunately I ride SRAM, so i'm not as familiar with Shimano. Used to ride 105 and from what I remember it did take considerable force on the lever to shift to the big ring.
kbro1986 is offline  
Old 04-14-12, 06:58 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Mike F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,181

Bikes: 2017 Specilized Roubaix, 2012 Scott CR1 Team, Felt Z85

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 2 Posts
I adjusted the FD on my back-up bikes 105 and same thing. Would be very interested in possible solutions
Mike F is offline  
Old 04-14-12, 07:04 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
david58's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Los Alamos, NM
Posts: 1,846

Bikes: Fuji Cross Comp, BMC SR02, Surly Krampas

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Don't know what is different, but my FD shifting to the big ring on both my bikes (105's) takes more effort than shifting up or down on the cassette. Maybe just the mechanics and leverage disadvantage of shifting in the front compared to the back? I have nothing to compare it to, 105 is all I know (though the Tiagra on the rentabike I rode today seemed to shift pretty easy on the front, in a triple).
david58 is offline  
Old 04-14-12, 07:12 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
DropDeadFred's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 4,429

Bikes: 2013 orca

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
My DA fd is the same if I'm not mistaken, but I never shift out of the big ring o_O
DropDeadFred is offline  
Old 04-14-12, 07:21 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,039
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 75 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Sounds to me like your cable tension is a bit too much. Sometimes that can be tricky to get just right.
Pendergast is offline  
Old 04-14-12, 07:22 PM
  #10  
Señor Blues
 
on the path's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 1,598

Bikes: Cannondale CAAD 10, Breezer Venturi Custom Build, IRO Singlespeed

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 127 Post(s)
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Seems you would have to expect a different feel from the respective shifters. The FD and RD perform similar tasks, but are very different mechanisms.
on the path is offline  
Old 04-14-12, 09:00 PM
  #11  
Portland Fred
Thread Starter
 
banerjek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,548

Bikes: Custom Winter, Challenge Seiran SL, Fuji Team Pro, Cattrike Road/Velokit, РOS hybrid

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 232 Post(s)
Liked 53 Times in 35 Posts
Originally Posted by Pendergast
Sounds to me like your cable tension is a bit too much. Sometimes that can be tricky to get just right.
That was my first reaction, but the cable is pretty loose in the lower ring. Pulling the cable by hand to make the shift requires about as much force as expected.

Originally Posted by on the path
Seems you would have to expect a different feel from the respective shifters. The FD and RD perform similar tasks, but are very different mechanisms.
Sure, but I've run Tiagra, 5600, and 6600 for years, and it seems like less effort was necessary with those systems. Having said that, my primary bike has Rival on it so I may have lost my feel for 6600 as I've been riding it in conditions that don't call for the small ring and the lever travel to shift to the big ring on Rival is huge.
banerjek is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 01:17 AM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,039
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 75 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Too much tension can cause the big ring trim not to work. That's mainly what I was going by.
Pendergast is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 01:28 AM
  #13  
Full Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Seattle
Posts: 446
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked 18 Times in 4 Posts
It's funny you mention this.


I ride current gen Force, and it shifts flawlessly. That said, I've always seen videos of riders shifting Sram, especially the big ring, and thought that it looked like it was easier for them than it is for me. I chalked it up to my small hands, etc.

One of my friends just bought a Raleigh that's got old-gen Red on it, and I was AMAZED at how much more easily it shifted. I don't mean speed, etc, I mean actual lever throw. I know my cables haven't 'degraded' since being new, as it was always stiff. I think I might upgrade cables sometime this summer.
JustinHorne is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 01:31 AM
  #14  
Mr. Dopolina
 
Bob Dopolina's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Taiwan
Posts: 10,217

Bikes: KUUPAS, Simpson VR

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 149 Post(s)
Liked 117 Times in 41 Posts
Did you wrap the bars before or after you finished adjusting the der?

Sometimes, if you wrap first, the housings are not fully seated in the ferrels and are held that way by the tape creating more drag.

Also, are you sure about the cuts to the housing? Are they clean? Did you grind or file them after cutting them to make sure the cut was clean and square (not at some funky angle)?

Is it possible there is a strand of inner cable that has frayed inside the housing and causing drag?

Also, is the housing inside or outside the bars? I had the same problem with some older K-Wings but I understand that has since been resolved. The issue was the bends in the cable were just too much and it was causing friction.

Just a few possible causes.
__________________
BDop Cycling Company Ltd.: bdopcycling.com, facebook, instagram



Bob Dopolina is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 08:30 AM
  #15  
well hello there
 
Nachoman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Point Loma, CA
Posts: 15,430

Bikes: Bill Holland (Road-Ti), Fuji Roubaix Pro (back-up), Bike Friday (folder), Co-Motion (tandem) & Trek 750 (hybrid)

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 503 Post(s)
Liked 336 Times in 206 Posts
I used to run 7800. The difference in effort from large to small, compared with small to large was always pretty big, especially under load. But that didn't bother me at all. It still functioned perfectly. Plus we are only talking about the effort it takes of one finger pushing a tiny lever.
__________________
.
.

Two wheels good. Four wheels bad.
Nachoman is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 10:12 AM
  #16  
Artificial Member
 
ahsposo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Cyberspace
Posts: 7,158

Bikes: Retrospec Judd, Dahon Boardwalk, Specialized Langster

Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6761 Post(s)
Liked 5,468 Times in 3,217 Posts
Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina
Did you wrap the bars before or after you finished adjusting the der?

Sometimes, if you wrap first, the housings are not fully seated in the ferrels and are held that way by the tape creating more drag.

Also, are you sure about the cuts to the housing? Are they clean? Did you grind or file them after cutting them to make sure the cut was clean and square (not at some funky angle)?

Is it possible there is a strand of inner cable that has frayed inside the housing and causing drag?

Also, is the housing inside or outside the bars? I had the same problem with some older K-Wings but I understand that has since been resolved. The issue was the bends in the cable were just too much and it was causing friction.

Just a few possible causes.
This is what I'd suspect.

I'll even stick a scratch awl in the opening to be sure.
__________________
ahsposo is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 10:55 AM
  #17  
Senior Member
 
kbro1986's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: phx, az
Posts: 420

Bikes: Ti

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by ahsposo
This is what I'd suspect.

I'll even stick a scratch awl in the opening to be sure.
Stop. Just Stop acting like you know how to wrench...
kbro1986 is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 12:38 PM
  #18  
Artificial Member
 
ahsposo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Cyberspace
Posts: 7,158

Bikes: Retrospec Judd, Dahon Boardwalk, Specialized Langster

Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6761 Post(s)
Liked 5,468 Times in 3,217 Posts
Originally Posted by kbro1986
Stop. Just Stop acting like you know how to wrench...
Loser.
__________________
ahsposo is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 12:45 PM
  #19  
Senior Member
 
kbro1986's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: phx, az
Posts: 420

Bikes: Ti

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by ahsposo
Loser.
Actually, I was the first to post in the post-3,000,000 post era. BOOM.
kbro1986 is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 07:59 PM
  #20  
Artificial Member
 
ahsposo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Cyberspace
Posts: 7,158

Bikes: Retrospec Judd, Dahon Boardwalk, Specialized Langster

Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6761 Post(s)
Liked 5,468 Times in 3,217 Posts
Pics?
__________________
ahsposo is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 08:23 PM
  #21  
Portland Fred
Thread Starter
 
banerjek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,548

Bikes: Custom Winter, Challenge Seiran SL, Fuji Team Pro, Cattrike Road/Velokit, РOS hybrid

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 232 Post(s)
Liked 53 Times in 35 Posts
Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina
Did you wrap the bars before or after you finished adjusting the der?

Sometimes, if you wrap first, the housings are not fully seated in the ferrels and are held that way by the tape creating more drag.
Before. This sounds like a real possibility.

Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina
Also, are you sure about the cuts to the housing? Are they clean? Did you grind or file them after cutting them to make sure the cut was clean and square (not at some funky angle)?
They're very clean. I use a metal cutoff wheel. The heat messes up the teflon at the end of the housing, but I make sure everything is smooth and lets cable through well before installing.

Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina
Is it possible there is a strand of inner cable that has frayed inside the housing and causing drag?
Unlikely. I'm very careful to watch for this specific possibility

Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina
Also, is the housing inside or outside the bars? I had the same problem with some older K-Wings but I understand that has since been resolved. The issue was the bends in the cable were just too much and it was causing friction.
Inside. I tried to be careful about the bends, but in all honesty, I didn't test.

If this were your bike, would you pull off the tape and redo the job? I hate to do that if it can be avoided, but if that's really what needs to be done, I need to bite the bullet.
Just a few possible causes.[/QUOTE]
banerjek is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 08:30 PM
  #22  
Mr. Dopolina
 
Bob Dopolina's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Taiwan
Posts: 10,217

Bikes: KUUPAS, Simpson VR

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 149 Post(s)
Liked 117 Times in 41 Posts
Originally Posted by banerjek
If this were your bike, would you pull off the tape and redo the job? I hate to do that if it can be avoided, but if that's really what needs to be done, I need to bite the bullet.
Yes.

I've damaged levers while trying to fight the chain onto the big ring under load. Also, it's just annoying.
__________________
BDop Cycling Company Ltd.: bdopcycling.com, facebook, instagram



Bob Dopolina is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 08:32 PM
  #23  
Freddin' it
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Wichita
Posts: 807
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Your 6600 had external housing; your 6700 are wrapped and the left shifter wire has an unusual path. I recently went from 5600 to 5700 which also went from external to wrapped. Like you, my left shifter was almost impossible to shift. I was afraid I'd break something first. A few thousand miles later, and it's loosened up and feels like my old 5600. Still way too stiff for my liking, but now no worse than the old external set. Having said all that, it would sure be nice if Shimano could make their front STI shifters work with as little effort as it takes to shift the same derailleur with their thumb shifters.
akansaskid is offline  
Old 04-15-12, 09:18 PM
  #24  
Senior Member
 
Ricanfred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 496

Bikes: Yes, I ride an aluminum Trek!

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by banerjek
Just installed some 6700 levers on my bike today. The right lever works flawlessly, but the left one takes more force than I'd expect to shift into the big ring. The cable does not seem to be binding -- shifts to the small ring are effortless. The RD itself does not appear to be sticking though it takes some force to move it. Cables and housings are all new and let cable slide freely off the bike.

Trim seems to be occurring when I actuate the A lever rather than the B -- i.e. I can half or full shift to a larger ring with one stroke, but hitting the B lever makes it drop to the small ring right away. Is this installation error or expected behavior?
5700 shifters and derailleurs. I can trim both with the A and B levers with no issues. Like you I find it takes considerable force to shift to the big ring. Bike has around 400 miles so I'm hoping it gets better, but it does shift nicely. When I compared it to me my previous bike, Sora shifters with 5600 derailleurs with a triple, it took considerably less effort to shift up with that set-up. Hope you get it sorted out....
Ricanfred is offline  
Old 04-18-12, 10:39 AM
  #25  
Portland Fred
Thread Starter
 
banerjek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,548

Bikes: Custom Winter, Challenge Seiran SL, Fuji Team Pro, Cattrike Road/Velokit, РOS hybrid

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 232 Post(s)
Liked 53 Times in 35 Posts
Mystery solved. Problem turned out to be that the FD spring and pivots were corroded up from sweat and gunk which made it resist movement too much in either direction.

It's bad enough I probably should replace it, but I got a very significant improvement simply by cleaning things up the best I could. Now shifting pressure is much less and I get trim in both directions though it doesn't work as well on the B lever because the slight drop in tension doesn't cause the FD to move as much as it should even with tension adjusted optimally. But it does perform the way I need it ot.
banerjek is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
squatchy
Bicycle Mechanics
2
10-15-12 11:47 AM
ilovecycling
Road Cycling
9
02-05-12 10:08 PM
hobkirk
Bicycle Mechanics
4
05-01-11 12:51 PM
nasv
Bicycle Mechanics
6
03-22-10 07:20 AM
deacon mark
Bicycle Mechanics
27
03-10-10 08:58 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.