Fork loose after I removed spacers
 

Hi All,

I wanted a more aggressive fit so I moved my spacers above the stem. After I retightened everything, the fork became loose - it moves slightly (maybe 1mm) up/down and forward/backward (when I brake the front wheel and try and push the bike forward/backward). I have a 2011 Felt F85 and have attached pictures below. Are there any areas I have to tighten/shift to stop the fork from moving? I thought everything was as tight as I could make it without stripping anything but I guess not.. Has anyone had a similar issue?

Thanks.

PS - anyone have tips on how to ensure the stem is aligned with the front wheel?

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=246408

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=246409

I don't see the top cap on there. Also it appears as though the top spacer is sub flush to the top of the steerer...top spacer should be above the steerer...hence your problem.Was it tight before you relocated the spacers above the stem?...did you drop/lose one of the spacers? Removing spacers from under the stem and placing them on top with the top cap in place will create identical spacing and preload for the steerer....unless you changed to a stem with a lower clamp height.The top spacer should be approx. 1/8" above the top of the steerer tube. When you tighten the top cap with stem clamp bolts loose, all spacers will be in compression and remove all the play from your steerer.

The top cap is on there, the red screw is in the center of it. I did not remove any spacers, just moved them up. I'm going to try and re adjust the stem, maybe I let the fork slip down before clamping the stem back on. Everything is flush though, and the spacers are slightly above the steerer.

Had the same problem when I did this to my Trek, turned out I had (as Campag4life indicated) tightened the stem clamp prior to tightening the top cap, so it wasn't as far down as tightening the top cap first would have forced it to be.

This seemed to work, thanks guys.

Glad to see you fixed.
Moral of this story please know what you are doing before attempting to do things, it goes more smoothly and you won't break things or cause an unsafe condition for yourself.

Sound advice.

You understand the bolt in the top cap is to set the preload on the headset bearings, right? You don't tighten it to keep everything in place, but to make sure the bearings are properly loaded. Not too tight or too loose.

Yes, I didn't overkill it but I made it so it wasn't loose. The fork still turns as easily as it did before and there's no give up or down. Was this correct or is there a more scientific way to fasten it?

You're good. Go ride.

I would like to know the same thing. My stem specifies 5nm of torque for clamping surfaces but is there a proper torque spec for the bearing preload?

Glad you sorted this out. BF came to my rescue too 7 years ago when I bought my first bike with a threadless system - only familiar with threaded quills for 20 yrs prior (I still use them on many of my bikes) I was afraid the whole assembly would collapse into a pile of loose parts when I took it apart :)

For the top cap, tight enough but don't crank it. Then do 5 nm for the stem bolts. You will know that the top cap is tight enough if you bounce the front end off the wheel and don't hear any jangles.

Thanks guys. Now is there a secret with getting the stem to line up perfectly with the front wheel or is that all done by eye?

Eyeball it. Turning the bars 90deg and lining the rear stem bolts with the tyre is helpful too.

I usually sight down the bars to the fork tips, so that they both show the same amount when partially obscured by the bars.

I stand over the top tube with wrench in my hand and eyeball it, then tighten it. Works great for me!

I put the front wheel in a bike (wheel) stand and line up the front wheel perfectly with the frame. Then I stand over the top tube and eyeball the stem to match the wheel.

cut the tube

Mark-One Eyeball. I also like to use a long dowel rod (or similar long straight device), lay it against and parallel with the stem, and align it with the wheel, then tighten the bolts. It gives me a good starting point for fit. I also like to use the dowel rod to align the saddle with the top tube on frames with round seat posts.