Altimeter
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Altimeter
I'm looking for an inexpensive (~$100 or less) bike computer with an altimeter. Want something that is relatively accurate, easy to operate and durable.
HR monitor would be a bonus but is not necessary.
A couple I've looked at are the Specialized SpeedZone Analog Elite Altimeter and the VDO 1.0 wired and wireless.
Anyone have good or bad eperience with either of these or something else in that price range?
Thanks.
HR monitor would be a bonus but is not necessary.
A couple I've looked at are the Specialized SpeedZone Analog Elite Altimeter and the VDO 1.0 wired and wireless.
Anyone have good or bad eperience with either of these or something else in that price range?
Thanks.
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If you look, you can get the Bontrager Node 2.1 for about $140 with a speed/cadence transmitter and a heart-rate monitor.
The only complaint I have with this computer is the distance number is a bit too small and the speed number is larger than it needs to be. It would be nice to have a smaller mph number and more data on one screen (there's a fair amount of button pushing to get to all of the data).
The only complaint I have with this computer is the distance number is a bit too small and the speed number is larger than it needs to be. It would be nice to have a smaller mph number and more data on one screen (there's a fair amount of button pushing to get to all of the data).
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You can get altitude from a barometer or from GPS. GPS can be accurate to within 10 horizontal feet, but it's at least an order of magnitude less accurate for elevation. A barometer can usually get you to within about 15 feet, if it's calibrated properly. My Magellan hiking GPS gives me elevation data, but it's so wildly inaccurate that it's barely useable; it will tell me I've gained hundreds of feet of altitude on a short kayaking trip, for example. Don't think that something will give you accurate elevation data just because it has a bullet point saying "altitude."
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If you look, you can get the Bontrager Node 2.1 for about $140 with a speed/cadence transmitter and a heart-rate monitor.
The only complaint I have with this computer is the distance number is a bit too small and the speed number is larger than it needs to be. It would be nice to have a smaller mph number and more data on one screen (there's a fair amount of button pushing to get to all of the data).
The only complaint I have with this computer is the distance number is a bit too small and the speed number is larger than it needs to be. It would be nice to have a smaller mph number and more data on one screen (there's a fair amount of button pushing to get to all of the data).
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You can get altitude from a barometer or from GPS. GPS can be accurate to within 10 horizontal feet, but it's at least an order of magnitude less accurate for elevation. A barometer can usually get you to within about 15 feet, if it's calibrated properly. My Magellan hiking GPS gives me elevation data, but it's so wildly inaccurate that it's barely useable; it will tell me I've gained hundreds of feet of altitude on a short kayaking trip, for example. Don't think that something will give you accurate elevation data just because it has a bullet point saying "altitude."
For this application I just want a relatively accurate (+ or - 100') estimate of cumulative climbing for training rides. The simpler the better. Training for a week-long tour with a fair amount of climbing and want to make sure I'm getting enough climbing to go with the miles.
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I have a Planet Bike Protege 9, which I think has a better display (there's more info on the screen), but doesn't do altitude gain or heart rate. The Planet Bike speed-pickup wasn't going to work on the fork of the new bike.
For me, the computer has the most use while riding for navigating using cue sheets. For that, the distance is the most important piece of information. The issue with the Node 2.1 is that the tenths-of-a-mile numbers are a bit hard to see. Though, it still worked out OK for the 200 mile ride I did over the weekend.
The computer displays secondary data in the bottom line. There's a way of displaying two pieces of data on this line at the same time (and you can pick what you want this to display).
The Bontrager transmitter was easy to set up. It has LED lights that indicate that the magnets and transmitter are properly aligned.
Last edited by njkayaker; 05-08-12 at 02:12 PM.
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You can get altitude from a barometer or from GPS. GPS can be accurate to within 10 horizontal feet, but it's at least an order of magnitude less accurate for elevation. A barometer can usually get you to within about 15 feet, if it's calibrated properly. My Magellan hiking GPS gives me elevation data, but it's so wildly inaccurate that it's barely useable; it will tell me I've gained hundreds of feet of altitude on a short kayaking trip, for example. Don't think that something will give you accurate elevation data just because it has a bullet point saying "altitude."
On a recent 196 mile ride, my computer (using barometric pressure) indicate 13,264 feet gained and 13,444 feet lost (starting and ending at the same place).
I suspect that the elevation is more accurate for fewer and longer climbs than they are for lots of short rollers. Variable weather and temperatures reduce the accuracy of barometric pressure for elevation.
Last edited by njkayaker; 05-08-12 at 02:29 PM.
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I've had it only a short time. I've heard good things about it (and the previous model). It's fairly straight forward to set up.
I have a Planet Bike Protege 9, which I think has a better display (there's more info on the screen), but doesn't do altitude gain or heart rate. The Planet Bike speed-pickup wasn't going to work on the fork of the new bike.
For me, the computer has the most use while riding for navigating using cue sheets. For that, the distance is the most important piece of information. The issue with the Node 2.1 is that the tenths-of-a-mile numbers are a bit hard to see. Though, it still worked out OK for the 200 mile ride I did over the weekend.
The computer displays secondary data in the bottom line. There's a way of displaying two pieces of data on this line at the same time (and you can pick what you want this to display).
The Bontrager transmitter was easy to set up. It has LED lights that indicate that the magnets and transmitter are properly aligned.
I have a Planet Bike Protege 9, which I think has a better display (there's more info on the screen), but doesn't do altitude gain or heart rate. The Planet Bike speed-pickup wasn't going to work on the fork of the new bike.
For me, the computer has the most use while riding for navigating using cue sheets. For that, the distance is the most important piece of information. The issue with the Node 2.1 is that the tenths-of-a-mile numbers are a bit hard to see. Though, it still worked out OK for the 200 mile ride I did over the weekend.
The computer displays secondary data in the bottom line. There's a way of displaying two pieces of data on this line at the same time (and you can pick what you want this to display).
The Bontrager transmitter was easy to set up. It has LED lights that indicate that the magnets and transmitter are properly aligned.
Thanks. Sounds what I'm looking for. Like the idea of an alignment feature. My current computer is acting up after less than 2,000 miles. Probably will take it back and see if I can get a refund and put the money towards a new one.
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One shop I talked to had very positive comments about the Node's wireless transmissions.
Note that heart-rate monitors might be prone to interference (you might get wildly high readings once in a while).
Last edited by njkayaker; 05-08-12 at 02:44 PM.
#11
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Casio GDF100-1A G-Shock Barometer Altimeter Watch. About $100.

While it's true that changes in barometric pressure will affect the displayed elevation, you can set the elevation to a known reference (either a known elevation at a specific location or the current pressure altitude near your location relative to the standard 29.92 inches of mercury). It's easy to get the current pressure altitude at your nearest airport by calling the local Automatic Terminal Information Service (ATIS) phone number, e.g. 650-877-3585 for SFO (listen for "altimeter").
While it's true that changes in barometric pressure will affect the displayed elevation, you can set the elevation to a known reference (either a known elevation at a specific location or the current pressure altitude near your location relative to the standard 29.92 inches of mercury). It's easy to get the current pressure altitude at your nearest airport by calling the local Automatic Terminal Information Service (ATIS) phone number, e.g. 650-877-3585 for SFO (listen for "altimeter").
Last edited by Scooper; 05-08-12 at 03:45 PM.
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I own a wrist altimeter and have used them for climbing for several years and prefer them for altitude over GPS units. That said if your life is dependant on finding an exact location in bad weather the GPS is the way to go.
For this application I just want a relatively accurate (+ or - 100') estimate of cumulative climbing for training rides. The simpler the better. Training for a week-long tour with a fair amount of climbing and want to make sure I'm getting enough climbing to go with the miles.
For this application I just want a relatively accurate (+ or - 100') estimate of cumulative climbing for training rides. The simpler the better. Training for a week-long tour with a fair amount of climbing and want to make sure I'm getting enough climbing to go with the miles.
If not, if you have a GPS, you can upload the file to Garmin Connect, use their elevation correction (to update your track data with elevation at ground level from USGS) and then export a new track log. That obviously won't get you your numbers until the ride is over, but if it's for a long-term training plan, that might work out.
Correct. Some types of problems will let you have one but not the other; some types will keep you from having either one. My Garmin Edge is generally accurate enough, but not 100 % precise; my Magellan is inaccurate enough that its cumulative elevation gain is useless.
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Can you use your watch for this, and go with a $20 cyclocomputer?
If not, if you have a GPS, you can upload the file to Garmin Connect, use their elevation correction (to update your track data with elevation at ground level from USGS) and then export a new track log. That obviously won't get you your numbers until the ride is over, but if it's for a long-term training plan, that might work out.
Correct. Some types of problems will let you have one but not the other; some types will keep you from having either one. My Garmin Edge is generally accurate enough, but not 100 % precise; my Magellan is inaccurate enough that its cumulative elevation gain is useless.
If not, if you have a GPS, you can upload the file to Garmin Connect, use their elevation correction (to update your track data with elevation at ground level from USGS) and then export a new track log. That obviously won't get you your numbers until the ride is over, but if it's for a long-term training plan, that might work out.
Correct. Some types of problems will let you have one but not the other; some types will keep you from having either one. My Garmin Edge is generally accurate enough, but not 100 % precise; my Magellan is inaccurate enough that its cumulative elevation gain is useless.
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Free shipping and they include the transmitter (usually, that's an extra $60). Note that you can use any ANT+ transmitter, including the Garmin, which can be gotten for $40.
Then, you know about it. I was surprised at first (hmm, it doesn't feel like I'm dying).
Then, you know about it. I was surprised at first (hmm, it doesn't feel like I'm dying).
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Supposedly the more sophisticated units are a little less likely to stray like this and have coded signals so other HR transmitters don't interfere. I've had had my HR go wildy in both directions. When I was youger and maybe a little more core I used to do training rides at night all through the winter and proximity to my headlamp would block the HR signal.
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Cyclists are less interested in absolute elevation than they are interested in total feet gained over the course of the ride.
On a recent 196 mile ride, my computer (using barometric pressure) indicate 13,264 feet gained and 13,444 feet lost (starting and ending at the same place).
I suspect that the elevation is more accurate for fewer and longer climbs than they are for lots of short rollers. Variable weather and temperatures reduce the accuracy of barometric pressure for elevation.
On a recent 196 mile ride, my computer (using barometric pressure) indicate 13,264 feet gained and 13,444 feet lost (starting and ending at the same place).
I suspect that the elevation is more accurate for fewer and longer climbs than they are for lots of short rollers. Variable weather and temperatures reduce the accuracy of barometric pressure for elevation.
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I got one of these, IMO for the money you can't beat it https://www.amazon.com/GlobalSat-GB-5...6531627&sr=8-4
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The numbers should (ideally) be the same but the real world adds errors to the measurements. The difference was 180 feet, or about 1.35%,. which is pretty-darn close.
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I got one of these, IMO for the money you can't beat it https://www.amazon.com/GlobalSat-GB-5...6531627&sr=8-4
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Let me specifically advise against a product I used here, a Sigma 2209 triple wireless cyclocomputer.
It has a barometric altimeter but it is total crap. It doesn't matter if you recalibrate every ride, let it acclimate from indoors to out before starting a ride, or anything else. It's never anywhere near accurate. Maybe my unit was defective, but I wouldn't buy it again.
Do the garmins that have barometric altimeters use some kind of correction between GPS altitude and the barometer?
It has a barometric altimeter but it is total crap. It doesn't matter if you recalibrate every ride, let it acclimate from indoors to out before starting a ride, or anything else. It's never anywhere near accurate. Maybe my unit was defective, but I wouldn't buy it again.
Do the garmins that have barometric altimeters use some kind of correction between GPS altitude and the barometer?
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It wouldn't surprise me that the altitude gain/loss measurement was +- 20%. And it's going to be less accurate for many short ups-and-downs (and more accurate for fewer climbs of large altitude differences).
GPS is not very useful for altitude gain/loss. The GPS's have the barometric pressure to improve the measurement (It's possible that it's better with both).
When you upload the profile (eg, to mapmyride), it uses the topographical database to compute altitude gain/loss.
When you upload the profile (eg, to mapmyride), it uses the topographical database to compute altitude gain/loss.
Last edited by njkayaker; 05-09-12 at 09:02 AM.