znomit

How did you manage to trash a set of pads in 2000km?

chasm54

This is just an observation, OK? I agree with most of what has been said above. However, wearing out a chain (especially one that has not been cleaned regularly) in 1400 miles would not be that unusual. And if, as you say, you use very few of the sprockets, then obviously they are going to wear while the rest of the cassette stays pristine. And it is certainly true that the one way to be sure you'll need a new cassette is to keep riding around on a worn chain.

So, by all means be sceptical of the LBS recommendation, and one certainly shouldn't "always" put n a new cassette when replacing a chain. But don't just assume everything is OK, either.

contango 

For what it's worth my first chain on my first MTB was totally shot at around 2500-3000 miles. It was over 1% extended (the chain extension gauge dropped straight through) so I had the chain and cassette swapped out at the same time. That said I started riding it weighing ~290, tended to mash rather than spin and used brute force and weight rather than finesse a lot.

Now I'm lighter (closer to 230), have developed a little more finesse and don't pull away in high gears just because I can. My cross bike currently has about 1500 miles on the chain and it's still less than 0.5% extended. I use cheap chains (KMC X9 for £14.99) so when I get to 0.75% extended I'll replace it. As someone already said, if replacing the chain causes it to skip I can swap out the cassette as well.

CoMotionRider

I went to Performance to get a new chain and was told I needed to replace my chainrings and cassette. I left there without buying a chain and went to another LBS. I asked the guy why he thought I needed new chainrings and cassette when he had not seen the bike and he said this is what they wee been told to say, that if you replace your chain that you need to replace the chainrings and cassette. Alot of people must go along with this.

nickp08

NYC riding... a lot of stop and go. and i was definitely riding a bit more conservatively when i first got the bike last year as I continued to get a feel for it.


couldn't agree more. as i mentioned in my last post, although i clean it and lube the chain, i do fall on the more abusive end of the scale on my drivetrain as i am on the heavy side, i tend to mash, and i ride a lot of stop and go. i'm less concerned with the chain wear as i am with the recommendation that the cassette should always be replaced with the chain. i'm going to measure it myself and see where i stand.

NRZ

I weigh more then and you and continually get 2000 miles out of a chain. I'm on my third chain and ended up buying a Park Tool chain checker so get free shipping in a recent order or other goods. It will be good to have while cleaning/lubing the chain I can check the wear.

I know every shop has these tools, just have the mechanic show you that you actually need a new chain (nothing beats actual proof right?). Another question is how was the bike performing (skipping in the drivetrain ie) that would indicate a worn chain/cassette.

nickp08

update:

picked the bike up today. i had them show me the chain wear- they had a park tool chain checker there (this exact one: https://www.parktool.com/product/chain-checker-cc-2 ) and i was at just about .75. they seemed to recommend replacing the cassette but weren't as adamant about it as whoever called me had been, and just told me that if i start skipping gears that's why. the mechanic was free so i had them replace the chain while i waited.

i'll be a little better about lubing my chain and keeping an eye on the wear from here on out. thanks for all the responses and the feedback in this thread.

GP 

Those Park chain checkers are notorious for making your chain look more worn than it is. I recommend getting a stainless steel ruler at Office Depot and using that instead.

nickp08

doh! oh well... i suppose it didn't hurt anything, and now i know the 41 approved method of checking chain wear. i swear i learn something new here every day.

znomit

+1