38mm Front Wheel and 50mm Rear?
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38mm Front Wheel and 50mm Rear?
I am looking at getting some new wheels for racing cat-4. My rides have a lot of rolling hills and I often ride 5-10 mile mountains with an average of about 7 1/2% grade. I was looking at a somewhat heavy 50mm wheelset then saw a 38mm from the same company. I like the aerodynamics of the 50mm but don't like the weight. Does anyone have experience on this setup. Listed below are the wheels that I am considering. I would definitely take the low spoke count.
https://www.boydcycling.com/38mm-carb...nchers-single/
https://www.boydcycling.com/50mm-carb...nchers-single/
https://www.boydcycling.com/38mm-carb...nchers-single/
https://www.boydcycling.com/50mm-carb...nchers-single/
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I ride a 38/50mm combination because of gusty cross winds in the mountains and to save a bit of weight.
Going down hill is either about your cornering or your tuck. I wouldn't buy wheels with high speed descents in mind.
YMMV.
Going down hill is either about your cornering or your tuck. I wouldn't buy wheels with high speed descents in mind.
YMMV.
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We usually recommend a 38/50 set for really light riders who ride in windy conditions. The 50 on the front still has good handling in fairly windy conditions but if you are bothered by wind then going a little shallower helps.
Since the front wheel is more important aerodynamically, staying with the 50mm on the front is a bigger benefit. If you are doing flat to rolling terrain, group rides, or races then the 50mm up front is a definite advantage. Than when the road does go uphill the extra 55 grams means you are going to have to put out an extra fraction of a watt to stay the same speed.
If you are looking at going with the 38/50 do it for windy conditions. . .not weight savings. The straight 50's will be faster.
Since the front wheel is more important aerodynamically, staying with the 50mm on the front is a bigger benefit. If you are doing flat to rolling terrain, group rides, or races then the 50mm up front is a definite advantage. Than when the road does go uphill the extra 55 grams means you are going to have to put out an extra fraction of a watt to stay the same speed.
If you are looking at going with the 38/50 do it for windy conditions. . .not weight savings. The straight 50's will be faster.
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There's your answer.
__________________
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Two wheels good. Four wheels bad.
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Two wheels good. Four wheels bad.
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I race with 60mm tubies that weigh about 200 grams less than my normal wheels not including tire weight (another ~200 gr difference).
I'm 5'5", 145 lbs (as of last weigh in) so small and relatively light. I also live in Florida, where the hilly sections are still "flat" by most definitions.
Wind has never really bothered me on these wheels, at least no more than my normal 27mm alloy's.
I haven't really bothered to ponder the specifics of why these wheels are fine in a crosswind and so many others have trouble.
I'm 5'5", 145 lbs (as of last weigh in) so small and relatively light. I also live in Florida, where the hilly sections are still "flat" by most definitions.
Wind has never really bothered me on these wheels, at least no more than my normal 27mm alloy's.
I haven't really bothered to ponder the specifics of why these wheels are fine in a crosswind and so many others have trouble.
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Op what are this wheels for?
I ride mostly coastal level terrain with little crosswind and some rolling hills... I was tempted to go 50 front 58 back, but ended on 50's..cuase to be honest the 58mm was more for looks than performance. They performed great, felt very solid and stiff on sprints, when ypu hit a pothole the wheels dont do the hollow plastic sound i hear from other wheelsets, if that means anything.
Rode some mountains with them too they performed very well uphill, did 4900ft gain climb, with some REALLY STEEP CLIMBS. Downhill I felt the acceleration in comparison to the guys in shallow aluminum, they felt great and the brakes responded normally. The bad news is, on the last and longest downhill i got stuck behind 2 riders and i had to brake more than i would have wanted
this caused an overheat to the rim and the rear developed a "thump", i felt stupid and pretty sad A out this. Thankfully Boyd backs up his product and the wheel is being warrantied as I post this message.
I felt singled out. A lbs owner around my house told me this doesn't mean anything bad Bout the product or my riding. Its something that happens from time to time to individuals for MANY reasons, hence the importance of buying stuff from reputable brand that backs up their product.
I ride mostly coastal level terrain with little crosswind and some rolling hills... I was tempted to go 50 front 58 back, but ended on 50's..cuase to be honest the 58mm was more for looks than performance. They performed great, felt very solid and stiff on sprints, when ypu hit a pothole the wheels dont do the hollow plastic sound i hear from other wheelsets, if that means anything.
Rode some mountains with them too they performed very well uphill, did 4900ft gain climb, with some REALLY STEEP CLIMBS. Downhill I felt the acceleration in comparison to the guys in shallow aluminum, they felt great and the brakes responded normally. The bad news is, on the last and longest downhill i got stuck behind 2 riders and i had to brake more than i would have wanted

I felt singled out. A lbs owner around my house told me this doesn't mean anything bad Bout the product or my riding. Its something that happens from time to time to individuals for MANY reasons, hence the importance of buying stuff from reputable brand that backs up their product.
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We usually recommend a 38/50 set for really light riders who ride in windy conditions. The 50 on the front still has good handling in fairly windy conditions but if you are bothered by wind then going a little shallower helps.
Since the front wheel is more important aerodynamically, staying with the 50mm on the front is a bigger benefit. If you are doing flat to rolling terrain, group rides, or races then the 50mm up front is a definite advantage. Than when the road does go uphill the extra 55 grams means you are going to have to put out an extra fraction of a watt to stay the same speed.
If you are looking at going with the 38/50 do it for windy conditions. . .not weight savings. The straight 50's will be faster.
Since the front wheel is more important aerodynamically, staying with the 50mm on the front is a bigger benefit. If you are doing flat to rolling terrain, group rides, or races then the 50mm up front is a definite advantage. Than when the road does go uphill the extra 55 grams means you are going to have to put out an extra fraction of a watt to stay the same speed.
If you are looking at going with the 38/50 do it for windy conditions. . .not weight savings. The straight 50's will be faster.
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I don't consider sub 1500g wheels as heavy. It wasn't too long ago when that was considered a good weight for "race only" aluminum clinchers.
I've got the 50mm Boyds but I haven't ridden them in a while. My wife has commandeered them for her bike and won't give them back. Neither of us has had any problems with crosswinds and she is under 125lbs.
I've got the 50mm Boyds but I haven't ridden them in a while. My wife has commandeered them for her bike and won't give them back. Neither of us has had any problems with crosswinds and she is under 125lbs.