Super Record / KUUPAS Build in Progress
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Super Record / KUUPAS Build in Progress
Well, I finally decided to pull the trigger on a new groupset. I was on my last 10spd cogset and felt it was time. I have been riding the same RECORD group since 2007 and although it still worked very well I just had to rebuild my LH shifter so felt that I'd been given enough hints already; Time for a new group!
Luckily a deal came across my desk so I jumped at it.
The 2011 SUPER RECORD GROUP.

I stripped down my frame and gave it a good shiny, shiny.
The KUUPAS Frame. - 56cm.



I've already hung the bits on there and will update with photos later. As you can see the cockpit is KORE carbon. The bars are 44cm c-c with a 130mm stem.
One thing is that I have a BB based PM so I can't use the SR BB or crankset. I was looking forward to that. So now I have an ITA BB and 170mm 53/39 SR crankset (without rings) that I need to figure out what to do with!
Quick note: I bolted the 11spd SR chainrings on my 2007 RECORD cranks without issue. As close as I can measure the tabs on the cranksets are the same width. If there is any difference in spacing between 10spd and 11spd, on the front, it seems it would need to be in the chainrings so I am pleased about that.
Luckily a deal came across my desk so I jumped at it.
The 2011 SUPER RECORD GROUP.

I stripped down my frame and gave it a good shiny, shiny.
The KUUPAS Frame. - 56cm.



I've already hung the bits on there and will update with photos later. As you can see the cockpit is KORE carbon. The bars are 44cm c-c with a 130mm stem.
One thing is that I have a BB based PM so I can't use the SR BB or crankset. I was looking forward to that. So now I have an ITA BB and 170mm 53/39 SR crankset (without rings) that I need to figure out what to do with!
Quick note: I bolted the 11spd SR chainrings on my 2007 RECORD cranks without issue. As close as I can measure the tabs on the cranksets are the same width. If there is any difference in spacing between 10spd and 11spd, on the front, it seems it would need to be in the chainrings so I am pleased about that.
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Interesting bike.
So, for those of us in North America, what's a KUUPAS? Is it a fairly major company in Asia?
So, for those of us in North America, what's a KUUPAS? Is it a fairly major company in Asia?
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That is even cooler, plus it makes me feel better about not knowing what it is.

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The Chainring Swap.

They bolted straight on with the same hardware and I don't see a difference in spacing.

They bolted straight on with the same hardware and I don't see a difference in spacing.
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Not a bad looking frame. Thanks for the crank info. I updated a pair of c-record crank arms with 10spd centaur rings and everything fit as expected. I guess this means I could always update to Athena 11 and keep the 1980s crank arms and brakes to retain the vintage feel.
#7
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Not a bad looking frame. Thanks for the crank info. I updated a pair of c-record crank arms with 10spd centaur rings and everything fit as expected. I guess this means I could always update to Athena 11 and keep the 1980s crank arms and brakes to retain the vintage feel.
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It worked for the 8 to 10spd swap. Some people say 10spd shifts fine on old ring but they must have low standards. The 8spd rings worked ok in the stand but were miserable under load. I swapped to the 10spd rings and shifting is now superb under all conditions. I bet you find the same.
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Different chainrings are cut...well..differently and there is variation in the placement of pins and ramps that are designed to mate up with the outer plates on specific chains. Using products that are designed to work together most often yields that best results if designed well.
It's not always the case but it's my default position.
It's not always the case but it's my default position.
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Fr Derailleur with Chain Catcher.

I installed a chain catcher after scratching up my new frame due to muck and some wicked chain suck.

I installed a chain catcher after scratching up my new frame due to muck and some wicked chain suck.
#12
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Not much love for the build.
As far as I got last night...


It's pretty much just the chain and some tape right now. I'll take it for a ride or two before I decide on all final adjustments. Once that is done I'll tape it up. I'll set up the carbon wheels, too.
As far as I got last night...


It's pretty much just the chain and some tape right now. I'll take it for a ride or two before I decide on all final adjustments. Once that is done I'll tape it up. I'll set up the carbon wheels, too.
Last edited by Bob Dopolina; 07-05-12 at 07:53 PM.
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The cages are actually TOPEAK. They're plastic and CHEAP. They weigh in around carbon cages. I've used them for 2 seasons and only broke 1; That was with 500cc bottles all year and on some VERY rough roads.
Bang for the buck they are a clear winner.
The wheels are a standard Kinlin/Novatec/Pillar build. The're 24/28 and I beat the heck out of them. Another good value build. I also have carbon clinchers and tubulars that I swap in for races or anything over 100km (comfort for the olde guy or all in my head). I'll probably do a final pic with those.
Bang for the buck they are a clear winner.
The wheels are a standard Kinlin/Novatec/Pillar build. The're 24/28 and I beat the heck out of them. Another good value build. I also have carbon clinchers and tubulars that I swap in for races or anything over 100km (comfort for the olde guy or all in my head). I'll probably do a final pic with those.
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the more i look at the frame the more i like it. i would like to see one with a simple paint job 
i figured that was the specs on the wheels. if it werent for the shipping i would strongly consider ordering a set from you.

i figured that was the specs on the wheels. if it werent for the shipping i would strongly consider ordering a set from you.
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There is a descent I do a few times a week that is wide open and where I can stay off the binders. Near the bottom there is this long, sweeping 120deg right. I usually hit this in a full tuck around 80kph. To hug the guard rail I need to drop my left foot and drive the heel down (like carving a line on skis).
I've ridden this descent for 13 years and on so many frames I can count. That includes steel, alloy, alloy/carbon and carbon. With this bike I can carve the line without dropping the foot and remain completely tucked. There is very little lateral flex from the frame or fork so I don't need to fight the bike and muscle it onto the line. It just continues to track.
That's a pretty standard build from several smaller builders in the US right now. It wouldn't be hard to put that together there.
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ive taken a look at several of the US builders but i cant justify the price over lower end campy wheelsets. your pricing (sans shipping) on carbon wheels seems worth the extra coin however.
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I'm getting excited about riding this bike again.
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Sure.
They're designed to channel air through the holder and inside the pad to help cool the pad/brake track while riding. I've been using the alloy versions and I like the modulation and stopping power. I have friends using the carbon versions and they seem please as well.
They're designed to channel air through the holder and inside the pad to help cool the pad/brake track while riding. I've been using the alloy versions and I like the modulation and stopping power. I have friends using the carbon versions and they seem please as well.
#23
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Very cool build! I like the way you used the new 11 speed rings on the older crank, and avoided using a non-Campy crank! How do you like the 11 speed? Did you put the chain on yet?
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Too busy over the last few days and into the weekend to even touch the bike. I should get it done next week.
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Looking very good!
I like the finish on those chain rings!
I like the finish on those chain rings!