Gruvy Girl

Hello folks. Anyone have experience converting a TRI bike into a road bike? This morning I purchased a partial build kit off ebay for what I thought was my gorgeous new road bike. Unfortunately I was deep into shiny-object syndrome and didn't realize till after I had paid for it that I had actually purchased a Triathalon bike frame

I know.. I know...

So now I am stuck with the question - can a Tri bike be used as a road bike? What I purchased is a frame/fork/headset/BB/Crankset/Brakes & mounting hardware/seatpost/saddle/stem. The bike is a 2006 K2 T9 Litespeed - I cannot find any information about the geometry. And I ride mostly on city streets and paved bike trails.

I would still need to purchase wheels, tires, cables, handlebar. I have the rest of the drive train components and STI shifters already. But is it worth it?

SCochiller

Tri/TT frame geometry does not work very well as a road bike. Very steep seat tube angle.

"The difference in a time trial/triathlon bike and a road bike is the frame geometry. The tt bike moves the rider closer to the front of the bike without changing the relative placement of the bottom bracket. The TT bike also has a shorter wheel base for less wind resistance, but it also makes the bike a lot more twitchy. For example, if you watch cycling you might hear them talk about the handling characteristics of the TT bike...that's why.
It's a totally different setup than a road bike."

https://www.bikeforums.net/archive/in...p/t-62514.html

escarpment

I highly doubt that is an actual tri frame, although I can see how it could be with the fat downtube and the aero seatpost. It does not look like it has very aggressive geometry though like the linked post talks about.

It looks like a cool frame for who Im assuming is a woman. I would personally build it up as it is.

My question is though do you plan on riding this A LOT or just for fun.
If your not a die hard road racer this frame should be just fine.

SCochiller

Looking at the pic I see the frame also lacks horizontal dropouts, which are common on TT bikes.

Gruvy Girl

Hello and thank you for the responses! There is very little info about this bike online. I can't find any specs on the geometry - just a few archived ads. It does seem that it was marketed as a decent entry level alum/carbon TRI bike for women. The EBAY seller has it described as a "Triathlon Road Bike."

I was planning on using it for 24 - 40 mile fun rides which this would probably work for but I have learned that an uncomfortable bike will hang in the garage no matter how fast and light it is. Painful = no fun. So I'm really torn as to whether or not to even build it up or just sell it. I would have to purchase a wheel set for it which is no small expense, but if it would work I could have a rather awesome road bike for ~$800

hmmmm... what to do..

Dan333SP

I have no advice, I'm just surprised to learn that K2 makes bikes! I've got a pair of their skis which I love, but I never thought I'd see that logo on a bike frame. Next thing you know I'll see someone on a Nordica bike.

kninetik

Converting a tri frame to a road positioned bike would've been really simple if the frame had a proprietary dual position seatpost. My Cannondale triathlon bike had such a seatpost that allowed both 73 or 78 degree options. Even with your setback seatpost, your weight may be centered too forward and may feel awkward if you're used to a normal road bike.

That being said, it's not the end of the world if you can't achieve "proper" road position. Assuming the frame fits, ride it any way you want.

Gruvy Girl

I also had a pair of K2 skis.. loved em :-)

Will this seatpost work to convert it to 73 degree angle if I use it backwards? It's meant to modify a road bike (sort of) into Tri bike.

https://www.modernbike.com/itemgroup....FYg7MgodalYAWw

Profile Design FFC Fast Forward Carbon Seatpost

This unique Carbon bladed seatpost effectively changes a 73 degree seat tube angle frame to 78 degree to move the rider forward up to 38mm.

Features: Multi-layer, multi-directional carbon fiber weave.
Forged 6061-T6 aluminum head construction.
27.2 mm OR 31.6 mm diameter.
300 mm long.
210 grams.Profile Design FFC Fast Forward

achoo

That seat post probably won't work if you use it backwards.

FWIW, I agree with the other posters - that really doesn't look like a true TT/tri frame.

If you need a setback seatpost, get a Thomson and be done with it. Don't bother with a CF seatpost.

c0urt

It can be done, Just depends on what you like and what you are used to.
I tend to like tri-bikes for single speed setups. And I love them. Because they are twitchy, and great for races. I tend to ride them with bull horns. (keep your opinions to your selves.)


everyone has noted the seat post. that makes a huge difference in making it useful to you as a road bike, because like someone noted it will allow you to shift your body weight as needed. Hopefully you will be able to fit the bike properly into a comfortable spot.
not all tri bikes have horizontal drops. like a lot of things it is kinda a fad thing.

tx_newbie

That's an older K2 Tri/TT frame design (I actually almost ended up buying that frame in that paint scheme). I think it had a more slack seat tube angle (compared to today's TT bikes) - probably 76 deg.

As another poster stated - they can be used for single speed bikes. I actually have used TT frames as track bikes; that being said, if you really only wanted a road bike, I would consider selling the TT frame and try finding an actual road frame. If anything, starting over with a new road frame will ease some doubts as to whether you made a mistake by pushing forward, trying to manipulate that K2 TT frame into the geometry of a road frame. I have seen full TT to road bike conversions before (with STI, etc), but I think those owners had a particular reason for using frames that start with relatively steeper STAs (76- 78 deg) than traditional road bikes (73 - 75 deg).

Though I'm loving that K2, I would suggest starting over with an actual road frame.

carpediemracing 

I quickly googled T9 Jetstream but couldn't find geometry. There are some errors in posts above.

The TT bike normally has a more stable front end (slack head tube angle, might be 70 deg for that size frame, vs 72 for a "road" bike). The slack angle makes it easier to hold a straight line. It makes it a bit more reluctant to turn. It's not a big deal, especially for smaller frames, because smaller frames have slack angles even for a road bike.

The TT bike has a steeper seat tube angle to allow a rider to get a lower/flatter back and still pedal effectively. The steeper angle works well if you have shorter quads - my road bike has a steep 75.5 deg seat tube angle to fit me. Most riders need something less steep, 72-74 deg is normal. For smaller frames you'll usually see a steep angle, 74 deg maybe.

The TT bike does not have a shorter wheelbase per se. It has relatively short chainstays in the back, mainly to keep the bike balanced with the steep seat tube. My bike (75.5 deg seat tube) works well with a short (39 cm) chainstay. With a regular "racing" length chainstay 40.5 cm the back wheel was too far back and lost traction in turns.

All this is besides the point. There are two riders that do the local Tuesday races on TT framed road bikes. One is one of the stronger women in the area, the other is a Cat 3? maybe Cat 2? racer on the same team. Both are very strong, both negotiate the relatively tight 3 turn course without problems.

If the frame fits you it fits you. The head tube angle is separate from fit but the seat tube angle does affect fit (i.e. how far back your saddle goes based on quad length). You may be fine with the frame, but if you don't like a forward/low position you may want to check out other frames.

For the next frame remember to figure out what fits. Then you get the frame. Fit really, really affects ride comfort. An improperly fit bike is terrible to ride, but you may not realize it because it's small things that just build up. Imagine if you moved your car seat an inch in one direction or another or wore shoes a size too big or too small. It may not kill you but it'll be aggravating.

sced

I have a TT frame that I set up as a road bike. It rides and handles beautifully.

Gruvy Girl

All very good information folks, Thank You! I have been told by a bike fitter that I have long femurs so a steep seat tube angle is probably the opposite of what I need. I called a few local Tri shops and one offered to put some wheels and bars on it so I can see how it fits. The frame arrives next week sometime....to be continued...

hueyhoolihan

since '95 i've been riding my custom 650c tri bike for long loaded touring, commuting and recreational riding. don't notice much difference between it and my new carbon road bike or my old lugged steel bikes. i just move my seat back a little on the tri bike.

people make too much out of all the geometry stuff.

hhnngg1

Totally agree - people way overhype the geometry bit. Unless you're a top flight racer trying squeeze every last second out of a solo TT, the geometry on TT bikes and road bikes isn't too drastically different. Yes, it's of course better to adjust the seat position depending on whether you have aerobars that require a more forward position to get a good aero position, but even so, it's similar enough to a road bike that it's eminently rideable, and even raceable either way. If it were so difficult/different, guys like me wouldn't be able to easily and instantly alternate between riding my TT bike vs my road bike whenever I please.

THe handling issues with a TT bike are greatly overstated as well. You can handle perfectly well on a TT bike. It's the aerobars and how aggressively set up they are with forward weight and narrow grip that make things a little more dicey, but even then, with not even much practice, you'll be navigating the gnarliest descents as well as you would on a road bike.

Racer Ex 

Ivan Dominguez won a lot of crits on a Fuji Aloha TT frame.

So did I.

It'll be fine.

Commodus

If you already owned the bike and couldn't afford another, sure why not. It's just a bike, so long as the wheels are round and you can pedal the thing it'll work itself out.

However, you don't own a bike - you own part of a bike. By the time you buy everything else you need you'll have at least another $400 into it, meaning you'll have paid way too much for the world's worst used road bike. Heavy, ill-handling, hard to fit, with all the compliance of a saw horse. Essentially you'll have all the worst qualities of a racing bike - no way to put on fenders, decent sized tires, or a rack and none of the good performance that sort of makes up for it.

If I was going to by a bike for <40 mile road/path rides, I'd probably buy something like one of the 'cross' urban bikes. Like a Crosscheck or something. Big squishy tires and a laid-back, upright riding position. Ride in comfort. Put a rack on, take a picnic.

StanSeven

Another thing to consider is the wheel size. You didn't say the size but a good many of the older tri frames, especially in smaller sizes for women, use 650 rather than 700 wheels. Choices of wheels to buy are a lot less. Plus you'll likely need some different gearing than many normal choices.

HBxRider

Tri Bikes look so cool, I say ride it, and unless you really notice limitations, keep it.

Racer Ex 

FWIW a bunch of the "comfort" comes from your handlebar/stem and wheel/tire choice. You can make a bike feel like a different machine by swapping out those components.

hhnngg1

Aside from the 'heavy' part, all of those descriptors fit to describe my Cervelo dura-ace bike with aero-frame. The again, I'm not the rider that typically takes my Cervelo to a picnic.

calamarichris

Take it to a profitter and tell them to set it up as a comfort bike for all the brevets you intend to do this Fall.
Also bring along a friend with a hidden video camera in her purse to record his reaction. When your vid becomes the next viral internet sensation, you'll be able to afford a platoon of slow, heavy, non-aero comfort bikes.

SlowOlympian

I have a dead sexy K2 satellite snowboard(sun w/solar flare on one side, satellite between bindings, and the other half is deep black) on top of my entertainment center in the hopes it will get used again someday! beautiful board, was a bit too big for my weight, so felt like a beach cruiser rather than an aggressive race frame, which was perfect for me! I much preferred carving down steep runs at top speed to doing 360's in the small local terrain park. Thanks for letting me reminisce!

Anyways, I would worry more about ordering your first( i assume) frame online, rather than being fitted in person at a local shop. My local shop sold me a 54cm that was new, but almost 2 years old, for a steal. It was my first nice bike, and maybe a bit small, but it worked. the RD snapped off, denting the seat stay badly, and was later stolen through my negligence. I then bought a 56cm because they noted how small it was, and offered me the choice now that my budget increased to current(well, last year's model, but stock was much bigger). I took the 56, and it took some getting used to. the reach has me stretched out, which I have really grown to like(I'm 23, my body still adapts pretty quickly, being older makes fit more important in initial purchase). I really don't know if I'm overly stretched or not. When the bike fitter was going to work, he did worry a bit about that, but again, stem is now flipped, and I'm halfway slammed.

Maybe way too much info. A bit tired after just getting off work at 1am. Morale of the story is, you can adapt the bike and make it fit to an extent. LBS offered me a new stem at a great deal if I decided the reach was a bit much. I never needed it. So, LBS will help you achieve your best fit, continually work with you on it, give you bargains(probably internet prices + a tad) on new parts to help. BUT, the kicker for me is that you also gain their wealth of knowledge. And that is exactly what I needed starting out. You can ask for a better deal(doesn't hurt), but I never did. because when my RD needed an adjustment(easy to do yourself, but can be overwhelming at first), even with a full shop, boom, i was out the door in 30 seconds. Creaky crank? immediate help, thorough regreasing of bb/ crank arms, boom out of the door. Keep in mind this was your typical roadie shop. Most employees race, or used to. I was very happy to support them, because they were very happy to support my fredly ass. I wish they would move to AZ so I wouldn't have to find another AWESOME shop.

woah, huge rant and rave. sorry

AdelaaR

I ride my tri bike through summer and enjoy it very much.
It's a personal thing.