If you were buying a set of skewers, which would you get?
#51
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According to the late great Sheldon Brown the enclosed cam lock skewers first invented by Campagnolo have a lot more locking power than the boutique exposed locking skewers. So, I just buy the cheap antique looking skewers. They might weigh a few more grams but they work better.
Here is an article:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html
Here is an article:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html
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no one mentioned these:
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...4&category=160
control tech race sl
26g for the set. I carry the little 5g tool with me.
super light. super low profile (very aero). They seem super strong, but I'm a small guy. They can be tightened much more aggressively than quick release, if necessary.
I'm a fan. I take my front wheel off a lot for transporting, too.
T
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...4&category=160
control tech race sl
26g for the set. I carry the little 5g tool with me.
super light. super low profile (very aero). They seem super strong, but I'm a small guy. They can be tightened much more aggressively than quick release, if necessary.
I'm a fan. I take my front wheel off a lot for transporting, too.
T
#56
Who is Austin Dunbar?
Go find a Campagnolo equipped bike from the early 80s and use the skewers from it. Mine are almost 30 years old and going strong.
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Another option Omni Racer - https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...ewers&_sacat=0
WW bargain for shaving a few ounces
WW bargain for shaving a few ounces
#58
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I like strong ones. I have a 1970's Campy skewer on my Zipp 404

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#61
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no one mentioned these:
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...4&category=160
control tech race sl
26g for the set. I carry the little 5g tool with me.
super light. super low profile (very aero). They seem super strong, but I'm a small guy. They can be tightened much more aggressively than quick release, if necessary.
I'm a fan. I take my front wheel off a lot for transporting, too.
T
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...4&category=160
control tech race sl
26g for the set. I carry the little 5g tool with me.
super light. super low profile (very aero). They seem super strong, but I'm a small guy. They can be tightened much more aggressively than quick release, if necessary.
I'm a fan. I take my front wheel off a lot for transporting, too.
T
Yet, it would make no sense to race with those given that the time lost in a wheel change would dramatically outweigh any possible advantage in saving 50 grams.
I can see it now, neutral mechanic from the wheel truck, goes to flip lever, says WTF, rider says you need this wrench, Rider fumbles through jersey pocket to find wrench (as peleton pulls aways) Paniced rider, and confused mechanic fumble wrench handoff as rider finally pulls wrench from jersey. Wrench bounces into ditch. Search for wrench in grass ensues. Race over.
IMHO, those skewers are only for posing.
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You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
#62
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If you don't race, Shimano skewers (Ultegra or DA) are pretty much the best available.
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Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
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If you do race, they are still the best available. I have 20 year old RSX (!) skewers on my carbon tubular race wheels. The exposed cam skewers that came with the wheels went into the spare parts bin.
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(... which is a good reason to consider them for an upgrade, it's not like you're going to order the wrong one and mess up a perfect fit.)
People seem to have strong opinions about which ones are and aren't best, and better than all the ones other people like.
People seem to have strong opinions about which ones are and aren't best, and better than all the ones other people like.
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I guess I just don't get your angst.
OP said "weekend warrior." I find these great for training/club rides. many cyclists carry a tool kit anyway. I never understood why anyone would want to carry 2 more wrenches on their wheels (aside from needing a fast wheel change from a 2nd party).
It's almost 200g savings for me.
Strong, light, aero, problem free, simple, cheap...
It's a bolt.
Nothing works itself loose. nothing pops off. You spin it till it's tight, a quick 1/3 turn with the wrench, done. It's actually faster then some of the QR's I have.
meh, do whatever you want. I've got 1600 miles on mine. I was apprehensive before I bought them, but the price was right. I'm really happy with them. Thought I'd share.
I've seen some really bad light weight QR's.
These aren't.
T
OP said "weekend warrior." I find these great for training/club rides. many cyclists carry a tool kit anyway. I never understood why anyone would want to carry 2 more wrenches on their wheels (aside from needing a fast wheel change from a 2nd party).
It's almost 200g savings for me.
Strong, light, aero, problem free, simple, cheap...
It's a bolt.
Nothing works itself loose. nothing pops off. You spin it till it's tight, a quick 1/3 turn with the wrench, done. It's actually faster then some of the QR's I have.
meh, do whatever you want. I've got 1600 miles on mine. I was apprehensive before I bought them, but the price was right. I'm really happy with them. Thought I'd share.
I've seen some really bad light weight QR's.
These aren't.
T
#66
Senior Member
Heh... 1600 miles. Get back on this thread after you've done 10k.
QR skewers are so small in diameter, I'd never trust threads that size to take torque. A quick release works with those threads because you are applying tension without torquing the threads. In fact, I've seen "bolt on" skewers fail before; in this case, it was during a race on the track. Don't know if the failed skewer caused the wheel to come off which caused the crash or the other way around, but it doesn't change the fact that in the aftermath, the wheel was off the bike and the skewer had failed at the threads.
There are a few absolutely critical bits I don't care to save weight on. One of these is the skewers.
QR skewers are so small in diameter, I'd never trust threads that size to take torque. A quick release works with those threads because you are applying tension without torquing the threads. In fact, I've seen "bolt on" skewers fail before; in this case, it was during a race on the track. Don't know if the failed skewer caused the wheel to come off which caused the crash or the other way around, but it doesn't change the fact that in the aftermath, the wheel was off the bike and the skewer had failed at the threads.
There are a few absolutely critical bits I don't care to save weight on. One of these is the skewers.
__________________
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
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no one mentioned these:
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...4&category=160
control tech race sl
26g for the set. I carry the little 5g tool with me.
super light. super low profile (very aero). They seem super strong, but I'm a small guy. They can be tightened much more aggressively than quick release, if necessary.
I'm a fan. I take my front wheel off a lot for transporting, too.
T
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...4&category=160
control tech race sl
26g for the set. I carry the little 5g tool with me.
super light. super low profile (very aero). They seem super strong, but I'm a small guy. They can be tightened much more aggressively than quick release, if necessary.
I'm a fan. I take my front wheel off a lot for transporting, too.
T
Last edited by refthimos; 08-28-12 at 01:49 PM.
#68
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I guess I just don't get your angst.
OP said "weekend warrior." I find these great for training/club rides. many cyclists carry a tool kit anyway. I never understood why anyone would want to carry 2 more wrenches on their wheels (aside from needing a fast wheel change from a 2nd party).
It's almost 200g savings for me.
Strong, light, aero, problem free, simple, cheap...
It's a bolt.
Nothing works itself loose. nothing pops off. You spin it till it's tight, a quick 1/3 turn with the wrench, done. It's actually faster then some of the QR's I have.
meh, do whatever you want. I've got 1600 miles on mine. I was apprehensive before I bought them, but the price was right. I'm really happy with them. Thought I'd share.
I've seen some really bad light weight QR's.
These aren't.
T
OP said "weekend warrior." I find these great for training/club rides. many cyclists carry a tool kit anyway. I never understood why anyone would want to carry 2 more wrenches on their wheels (aside from needing a fast wheel change from a 2nd party).
It's almost 200g savings for me.
Strong, light, aero, problem free, simple, cheap...
It's a bolt.
Nothing works itself loose. nothing pops off. You spin it till it's tight, a quick 1/3 turn with the wrench, done. It's actually faster then some of the QR's I have.
meh, do whatever you want. I've got 1600 miles on mine. I was apprehensive before I bought them, but the price was right. I'm really happy with them. Thought I'd share.
I've seen some really bad light weight QR's.
These aren't.
T
That amount of weight savings offers virtually no advantage, and any slight advantage would only be relevant if you race.
Yet, no reasonable person is going to race with those, given the need to carry the wrench, find the wrench and apply the wrench. Even if you just loose a few seconds, those seconds are precious when you're talking about running down a quickly vanishing peleton.
Thus, they only make sense for bragging rights.
As you point out, they're bolts. If you want wheels that bolt on, why not just use a threaded axle?
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
#69
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For the record I never said anything about weekend warrior. I'm far from that and carrying that extra tool is just ********.........to me. There has been some excellent info on this thread regarding skewers and I'll bet some folks are now questioning the quality of their skewers when before they overlooked them.
I believe that the Shimano or similar skewers are the way to go. Previously I had Zipp skewers and hated them. The Skewers I have now came with my new wheels and I hate them. Hence the need for some help.
I believe that the Shimano or similar skewers are the way to go. Previously I had Zipp skewers and hated them. The Skewers I have now came with my new wheels and I hate them. Hence the need for some help.
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Here are some Record Skewers that seem to be reasonably priced. I would either go with Shimano or Campy or some other similiar skewer.
https://www.coloradocyclist.com/product/item/CCCDXRE8
https://www.coloradocyclist.com/product/item/CCCDXRE8
#71
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On older bikes without vertical dropouts I've had external cam skewers slip. However, since this is the road forum, and virtually all modern road bikes do have vertical dropouts which require far less skewer tension than most people use, virtually any skewer will work just fine.
That said, I want some Extralite Streeters just because I think they're sexy.
That said, I want some Extralite Streeters just because I think they're sexy.
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On older bikes without vertical dropouts I've had external cam skewers slip. However, since this is the road forum, and virtually all modern road bikes do have vertical dropouts which require far less skewer tension than most people use, virtually any skewer will work just fine.
That said, I want some Extralite Streeters just because I think they're sexy.
That said, I want some Extralite Streeters just because I think they're sexy.
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Shimano skewers are the best. Internal cam mechanism, steel rod, alloy lever and steel threads on the adjustable nut. Bombproof and lightweight. It appears that Shimano skewers from about LX/105 and up are essentially the same.
I have some so-called high-end non-Shimano units which have the the external cams. They are harder to adjust and require more hand force to get adequate retention. There is no way I am going to risk my life using skewers with titanium rods, or threaded alloy adjustable nuts.
I think Sheldon Brown has an article on skewers that lays out the issues. As always, Sheldon or Jobst Brandt are always right.
I have some so-called high-end non-Shimano units which have the the external cams. They are harder to adjust and require more hand force to get adequate retention. There is no way I am going to risk my life using skewers with titanium rods, or threaded alloy adjustable nuts.
I think Sheldon Brown has an article on skewers that lays out the issues. As always, Sheldon or Jobst Brandt are always right.
#75
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Actually, Campy has more pull in their cam. Both are excellent skewers though.
It isn't an issue if your tt bike has track end style dropouts with set screws, because you pull the wheel up to the set screws, then clamp it down. The chain tension while pedaling isn't going to be able to pull the wheel forward. If it doesn't have set screws (which I've yet to see), or has forward facing dropouts like used to be standard on road bikes, then you need to make sure you have a very secure skewer. So as to not worry any ****zy readers, I've never seen anyone pull their rear wheel out due to a slipped skewer. At worst it will slide forward on your drive side and the tire will rub on the inside of the non drive side chainstay. Annoying, but not dangerous.
It isn't an issue if your tt bike has track end style dropouts with set screws, because you pull the wheel up to the set screws, then clamp it down. The chain tension while pedaling isn't going to be able to pull the wheel forward. If it doesn't have set screws (which I've yet to see), or has forward facing dropouts like used to be standard on road bikes, then you need to make sure you have a very secure skewer. So as to not worry any ****zy readers, I've never seen anyone pull their rear wheel out due to a slipped skewer. At worst it will slide forward on your drive side and the tire will rub on the inside of the non drive side chainstay. Annoying, but not dangerous.