backinthesaddle

Hi, I've been riding with Zero's stainless for about 5 years, like them fine.

But due to recent hip surgery I want to switch -- at least temporarily -- to Speedplay Light Action. I want to clip in and out with almost no effort, which I understand will be easier with Light Action.

Two questions:

Anyone made that switch and can comment on it?
Stainless is about $70 more than chrome moly for an almost insignificant weight reduction. So I'm inclined toward chrome moly. Any reason to choose stainless instead?

aramis

I have a set of chromoly and set of titanium zeros. They work the same, the titanium are silver colored an have a lighter spindle and the chromoly are black but the spindle gets scratched a little from clipping in after a while. I bought the titanium ones used. I would never pay extra new for the lighter ones. I am no faster on my 15 lb $3000 dollar bike vs my cheaper (bought used for $700) 17 pound bike. Sometimes I go faster on the heavier bike, go figure.

oldbobcat

Once you get used to the motion of stepping into Speedplay pedals, clipping in is quite easy. Just center the cleat roughly over the pedal and press down. The ramps will guide your cleat in. Stepping out of Light Actions is easy, too. The pedal has indentations that align with ramps on the cleat. The motion of twisting these out of alignment practically throws the foot off the pedal.

If there is any disadvantage, though, it's the amount of rotation needed to disengage. Also, riding with 15 degrees of non-centering float takes getting used to.

Regarding chromoly vs. stainless, go with your budget. It's just a few grams.

Carbon Unit

I used Light Action pedals for six years and gave them to wife a few months ago and put Zeros on my bike. The LAs are easier. I have chromoly LA and SS Zeros. I don't see any difference between chromoly and SS in how they work. The paint on the chromoly wears off in time in places so the SS look better. I hear that the chromoly can rust but it hasn't happended to me.

JTGraphics

Hes not talking about the weight hes refering to the model

JTGraphics

Have you tried setting the float to the max so you have a lot of float in the pedal I think you will find the release easer which may be enough for you with what you have.

aramis

He asked about the difference between chromoly and stainless. The difference is the shaft is a different material and weighs less when you get speedplays in different materials. I've never used the la pedals so I cant comment on how they work.

backinthesaddle

I'm not concerned about the amount of float. I'm just trying to get less effort to clip in and (especially) out, and I understand that Light Action requires less effort. Just want to limit the torque on my leg as I unclip.

backinthesaddle

Thanks! That's the comparison I'm looking for. I think I'll go with the chrome moly Light Action, save some money. Anyway this is likely to be temporary, as I expect I'll go back to the Zeroes as my leg gets stronger.

qqy

The real difference is the stainless ones are made in the USA and the CroMo ones are made in China. Similar in every other way.

Carbon Unit

There are a few differences. The chromoly LA pedals have one needle bearing and the Zero chromoly pedals have two bearings. They feel exactly the same while peddling so I don't think it is a big deal. The LA pedals were designed to be low cost.

topflightpro

I have CroMo and Stainless Zeros on a couple different bikes.

The CroMo ones are painted black, the stainless ones are silver. Over time, the paint will chip off the CroMo and the spindles will rust a little. It's not a lot though.

I do find that I prefer the appearance of having the spindle match the crank arm, i.e. black spindles on black crank arms and silver spindles on silver crank arms. But if cost is an issue, just get the CroMo.

backinthesaddle

Aha, then I'd be inclined to "Buy American". I like to support American manufacturing when possible. Hard to swallow a > 50% price premium though.

backinthesaddle

I went to the source and called Speedplay.

Besides the obvious differences of color and material, he told me that there was an internal difference in the bearings, and that the stainless is similar to the Zero's I'm accustomed to. Also he told me that the stainless is made in house in San Diego. He was a little vague as to where the chrome moly are made, but used the word "outsourcing".

I think I'll pay the premium and go with the stainless.

dalava

I think JT's point wasn't about to increase the float you don't need, but to set it in such a way that it allows for easier release.

backinthesaddle

Hope I'm not entirely wasting my money here, but I'm relying on the claim that LA have easier release no matter how you position zero's.

Carbon Unit

The LAs will be easier. However, there is a break in peroid. I have heard from people on this forum that you can use LA cleats with Zero pedals.

qqy

I'm not sure, but I'm suspicious about the bearing claim. All Speedplay Zeros/LAs I've taken apart and cleaned, regardless of model, have had the same number and quality of bearings. Tho I'm not sure I've worked on CroMo LAs. Perhaps there's a subtle difference in the cartridge bearings I missed, but I can confirm that CroMo and Stainless Zeros are identical internally. The X5 however, does have one less bearing. Also, the stainless spindle is 2mm shorter.

oldbobcat

I can see how that would work. Except for the limit screws on the Zero cleats, they're very similar. I don't know if you'd get the same easy release with Zero pedals, though.

Hapsmo911

FYI the LA springs will fit in your Zeros. And X-pedals are the easiest to get out of.

Carbon Unit

The chromoly LAs are different. There is is an exploded diagram on Speedplays website that shows the LA configuration. However I think it wohld make them easier to rebuild plus the feel the same.

MDfive21

fwiw, my SS zeros are almost too easy to get out of but i understand your intention. i've had ankle surgery.

since this is a temporary switch, you could loosen the 4 screws one click so that the metal plate is not so tight. that will allow you to unclip quite a bit easier. and/or squirt some graphite lube into the cleats. just do a couple test runs near grass to test it before you go out on a ride.

Garfield Cat

Isn't graphite a dry powder? I always thought the graphite works best when there is no moisture around.

backinthesaddle

Interesting idea! But I've always found there's a balancing act between overtight cleats, which are hard to clip in and out of, and too loose cleats which are sloppy. So I think I have my zero cleats set right, don't want them any looser. And I'm still hoping that the LIght Action might be easier to clip in and out of.

Talked to my local Performance Bike shop today and they'll let me try out the LA's. So then I'll know whether it's really worth spending the money to make the switch.

MarkThailand

When I first tried Speedplay Stainless pedals and cleats, I also had a very hard time clipping in. I think it was a combination of my being unfamiliar with clipping into the Speedplay cleats and of my installing the cleats too tightly (even though I used a digital torque wrench).

After about 10 rides with 2 falls due to my poor timing and inability to unclip, I was more relaxed and the clip in and unclipping became easier - though not straightforward.

After about 2000 miles, I decided it was time to re-lube the pedals and completely disassemble the cleats - this was an eye-opener. The re-lubing of the pedals was straightforward but disassembling and cleaning the cleats got rid of so much crap, dirt, sand, and gunk. Also, I noticed that groove had started to firm where the cleat spring rubs against the metal plate of the cleat. Anyway, I figured that it was still okay so I completely filled all the cleat cavities with Parktool PPL-1 lube. Then, I carefully reassembled the cleat back on my DMT Prisma Speedplay sole shoes and tightened the screws until only the first click and to much less torque (1 nM) than the recommended values.

Now, clipping in and unclipping is almost too easy. I clip my left side while I am standing lever the bike and then pedal forward with my left side clipped in and with my right foot just on the right pedal. Then, my right shoe would click in automatically as I am increasing my cadence. I would like to say this is all second nature, but it isn't yet. I am sure that by the time I can ride exclusively in the drops with my back perfectly straight and I can ride centuries in 5 hrs flat every weekend ....

Mark