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Cassette size question

Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Cassette size question

Old 10-23-12, 10:13 PM
  #51  
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luv this thread
as we rehas a lot of what we've all posted before...

honestly, there are a ton of very valid comments, coming from valid views,
triples are great in their versatility, compacts offer a good in-between triples and stds... I mean, they're all valid when they come from a rider's perspective which works for them
the OP noted that what he had, didn;t seem to work for him... on downhills AND on what he's climbing.

honestly, clarkbre has hit most of the high points in his posts.
and if one was to directly answer the OP's direct question (with the preamble of climbing issues - I quote "I currently run a compact crank (50/34) on a 11-28 cassette. I noticed that SRAM has a 11-32 cassette. Would this be a good option and compatible with my setup?
Any thoughts would be appreciated!"

a 4 gear inch change on the one last cog, (from my experience) is not enough to make any difference when climbing is kickin your butt (perceived).

sure, he could go triple, do all the other equipment changes, spend big.
but having donned my cloak of arrogant cardiologist (think I've got my Halloween costume...!) I had the temerity to suggest there are better solutions in proven riding technique improvements.
The OP is not a noob. He's been on bike forums since July 08, so a good assumption is he's been riding at least 4 yrs, maybe more.
Hey, its just fine to be a rider and not get technical, just enjoy the ride.
but if one wants to get technical, then there should be some reasonable effort to know their own technical situation - and expect unvarnished comments pointing out possibly obvious observations.
I'm not espousing suffering (without purpose), and sometimes mashing is the right thing. But millions of cyclists have proven that adding a bit of spin and snap to your cycling bag of tricks can make a huge difference in the fun of getting down the road. And climbing hills getz better when you climb hills, more often.

and sometimes a little suffering is what we need...

comments stand as is
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Old 10-24-12, 07:19 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by cyclezen View Post
........

a 4 gear inch change on the one last cog, (from my experience) is not enough to make any difference when climbing is kickin your butt (perceived).

.....
Depends as does everything. 28 to 32 is still 14% which is the difference between a cadence of 60 and 68 or so. This might be enough for the OP and it's a relatively inexpensive experiment - cassette and chain assuming he has a mid-cage RD.

I'm spending about $400 to convert my Volagi to a triple. I could climb most anything with a 36t in the back and that will be my fall-back for a really ugly ride, but a 30-30 or 30-32 should be fine for almost any 100K at 100'/mile and many Centuries. A triple with a 74mm BCD gives you a 39t chain ring which many find gets heavily used and the ability to put on a true granny.

+1 on the suffering best done under controlled circumstances (training) versus having to suffer the last 30 miles of a Century where that additional, lower gear might save your legs.

OPs don't generally provide enough specificity to really understand their situation so we're all left guessing and suggesting all over the place, such is BF.
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Old 10-24-12, 07:38 AM
  #53  
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It's unlikely the OP has a mid-cage RD though - those are usually only specced on bikes that come with cassettes requiring one. Makes it a bigger effort and expense for him.
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Old 10-24-12, 07:48 AM
  #54  
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One big mistake is thinking that 4 gear-inches is a small amount. An average shift is in the 8-10% range and the 28 to 32 shift is 12.5%. It's just as large an amount as most shifts.

At the top gear range, the 50/11 to 50/12 shift is 10 gear inches, but a smaller 8%.
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Old 10-24-12, 07:58 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by cplager View Post




I personally wouldn't have a bike without a triple (I really don't like hills). One advantage of the triple is that you can keep a tighter cassette on the back (smaller spacing between cogs).

Cheers,
Charles
I don't have any bikes without a triple. At one point I had a bike with a quad
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Old 10-24-12, 08:25 AM
  #56  
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Chiming in late & I may have missed someone answering this already. I have SRAM 50/34 compact cranks and swap in a SRAM 32t cassette for a couple of hillier century rides. The standard SRAM Rival & Force rear derailluers do not work with the larger cogs - you'll also need to change to the longer cager (I think it's mid-cage) Apex RD. And use a longer chain (unless you can 100% absolutely remember to NEVER shift into the big-big gear combos, which if you are lucky, will just lock up your drive train when the RD cage tries to straighten beyond it's limits. If you aren't lucky, you will break something.). Chains with a master link and the Park Tool ML-1 pliers (or similar, or re-usable links that really do open with just finger pressure) are your friend for doing this. You also need to replace the cable crimp and re-adjust indexing.

Besides the cost & effort to keep a 2nd RD, cassette, and chain and move stuff back & forth, the 11-32 has bigger jumps, so you may notice you shift more often on flatter terrain trying to find the "best" gear.

Yes, it is better overall to improve "the motor". Sometimes you do just need that low gear. I probably "need" it for just one ride now, it's more of a safety net for a ride 2 weeks prior (don't need it for same hills on a shorter ride), and I'm being lazy not moving it for a 3rd ride 2 weeks later (I keep telling myself that the 2 climbs at the last 10 miles aren't THAT bad). Unlike the OP, I'm a spinner, so there are probably more circumstances where I'm more comfortable at 80-90 rpm vs. 70, and 70 vs. 60, etc...
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Old 10-24-12, 09:45 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by cyclezen View Post
luv this thread
as we rehas a lot of what we've all posted before...

honestly, there are a ton of very valid comments, coming from valid views,
triples are great in their versatility, compacts offer a good in-between triples and stds... I mean, they're all valid when they come from a rider's perspective which works for them
the OP noted that what he had, didn;t seem to work for him... on downhills AND on what he's climbing.

honestly, clarkbre has hit most of the high points in his posts.
and if one was to directly answer the OP's direct question (with the preamble of climbing issues - I quote "I currently run a compact crank (50/34) on a 11-28 cassette. I noticed that SRAM has a 11-32 cassette. Would this be a good option and compatible with my setup?
Any thoughts would be appreciated!"

a 4 gear inch change on the one last cog, (from my experience) is not enough to make any difference when climbing is kickin your butt (perceived).

sure, he could go triple, do all the other equipment changes, spend big.
but having donned my cloak of arrogant cardiologist (think I've got my Halloween costume...!) I had the temerity to suggest there are better solutions in proven riding technique improvements.
The OP is not a noob. He's been on bike forums since July 08, so a good assumption is he's been riding at least 4 yrs, maybe more.
Hey, its just fine to be a rider and not get technical, just enjoy the ride.
but if one wants to get technical, then there should be some reasonable effort to know their own technical situation - and expect unvarnished comments pointing out possibly obvious observations.
I'm not espousing suffering (without purpose), and sometimes mashing is the right thing. But millions of cyclists have proven that adding a bit of spin and snap to your cycling bag of tricks can make a huge difference in the fun of getting down the road. And climbing hills getz better when you climb hills, more often.

and sometimes a little suffering is what we need...

comments stand as is

Thanks for your comments. Definitely not a noob. I've been riding for 6-7 years now. I've been referred to as a novice and amateur in this thread, which I suppose is true if you base it on my understanding of gearing and skill at climbing hills. And I certainly don't have the cyclist vocabulary to talk a good game. I just ride..mainly for fun, but now I'm trying to be more competitive.

This thread has given me plenty to think about! Thanks to everyone for their 2 cents and I will definitely put some more thought into this as I continue my training. I like the idea of carrying multiple cassettes for different types of terrain. The triple is out for because of the investment in replacing out perfectly good components.

Thanks again everyone!
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Old 10-24-12, 09:46 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute View Post
I don't have any bikes without a triple. At one point I had a bike with a quad
The quad on our daVinci gives us 60-48-36-24. The 24 is our senior citizen gear, the 60 is our you-can't-live-forever gear. We spend most of our riding in either the 48 or 36.
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Old 10-24-12, 11:11 AM
  #59  
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This thread is a hoot. IMHO, gearing is as subjective as saddle comfort.

I have 3 bikes: 2x10 with 53/39 x 12-25, 1x9 with 46 x 11-26, and a single speed 47 x 17. I will do any ride on any bike, and rarely ride the same one twice in a row. I won't say there is no difference, but there isn't a great deal of difference. I have survived and enjoyed every ride.

OP, do what ever you want, and enjoy the ride.
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Old 10-24-12, 11:26 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by rdtompki View Post
The quad on our daVinci gives us 60-48-36-24. The 24 is our senior citizen gear, the 60 is our you-can't-live-forever gear. We spend most of our riding in either the 48 or 36.
It's been a while but if I recall correctly, my quad was a 44/34/24/16 tied to a 12-34 freewheel.
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Old 10-24-12, 02:49 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute View Post
It's been a while but if I recall correctly, my quad was a 44/34/24/16 tied to a 12-34 freewheel.
Holy smokes! What's the 16x34 for? Are you hauling hundreds of pounds of stone up those hills?
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Old 10-24-12, 02:52 PM
  #62  
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I'd rather walk than 16x34, i think.
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Old 10-24-12, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by banerjek View Post
Holy smokes! What's the 16x34 for? Are you hauling hundreds of pounds of stone up those hills?
Mountain bike. Kinda silly for a road bike but there have been times...

Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets View Post
I'd rather walk than 16x34, i think.
Having walked up most of Loveland Pass pushing loaded touring bike, I'd rather pedal...even at less than walking speed.
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Old 10-24-12, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute View Post
I don't have any bikes without a triple. At one point I had a bike with a quad
Nice!

Originally Posted by cyccommute View Post
I my quad was a 44/34/24/16 tied to a 12-34 freewheel.
Wow! (I'm not worthy... I'm not worthy...)

Last edited by cplager; 10-24-12 at 04:59 PM.
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Old 10-24-12, 04:56 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by ks1g View Post
Besides the cost & effort to keep a 2nd RD, cassette, and chain and move stuff back & forth, the 11-32 has bigger jumps, so you may notice you shift more often on flatter terrain trying to find the "best" gear.
Some people don't seem to mind big jumps, but I do. For what it's worth, this is why I like a triple with a granny gear. It's more weight but then you can keep your tight spacing and still get nice and low.

Cheers,
Charles
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Old 10-24-12, 05:11 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by ks1g View Post
Chiming in late & I may have missed someone answering this already. I have SRAM 50/34 compact cranks and swap in a SRAM 32t cassette for a couple of hillier century rides. The standard SRAM Rival & Force rear derailluers do not work with the larger cogs - you'll also need to change to the longer cager (I think it's mid-cage) Apex RD. And use a longer chain (unless you can 100% absolutely remember to NEVER shift into the big-big gear combos, which if you are lucky, will just lock up your drive train when the RD cage tries to straighten beyond it's limits. If you aren't lucky, you will break something.). Chains with a master link and the Park Tool ML-1 pliers (or similar, or re-usable links that really do open with just finger pressure) are your friend for doing this. You also need to replace the cable crimp and re-adjust indexing.
SRAM Rival and Force both have WiFli options now. I have a Rival with an 11-32 cassette and am happy with it.
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Old 10-24-12, 05:25 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute View Post
Worst. Advice. Ever. How do you come to the conclusion that this combination is enough for anyone or everyone for that matter? Do you happen to be "everyone"? Ridden in all of the conditions that the world has to offer? Your advice is more about machismo then anything else. I am of an age and ride in a part of the world where those gears are senseless for me. I don't feel that my masculinity is threatened because I happen to ride a bike with a 50/39/30
Sorry - let me rephrase 50/34 - 11/28 is more than enough for anyone...unless you're an emasculated geriatric requiring a quad-crank.

Last edited by Lexi01; 10-24-12 at 05:32 PM.
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Old 10-24-12, 09:21 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Lexi01 View Post
Sorry - let me rephrase 50/34 - 11/28 is more than enough for anyone...unless you're an emasculated geriatric requiring a quad-crank.
You are entitled to your opinion. Many seem to think you are wrong. Now everyone knows you are a jerk.
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Old 10-24-12, 09:38 PM
  #69  
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You know, until this thread, I didn't even know quad-cranks existed.
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Old 10-24-12, 09:52 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Lexi01 View Post
Sorry - let me rephrase 50/34 - 11/28 is more than enough for anyone...unless you're an emasculated geriatric requiring a quad-crank.
LOL

That's my setup and it works quite well for the various terrain I ride. The bigger jumps don't bother me and I'm usually encountering some sort of hill anyway. It's still a bit of a struggle on long hauls over the Rockies but that's because I'm hauling my 200lb arse up it. Lose weight. Get stronger. That's the plan.
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Old 10-24-12, 10:10 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute View Post
Mountain bike. Kinda silly for a road bike but there have been times...



Having walked up most of Loveland Pass pushing loaded touring bike, I'd rather pedal...even at less than walking speed.
I run mtb gearing for touring myself. I assume loads of 5 pounds or less in the roadie forum, unless othrwise stated
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Old 10-25-12, 05:47 AM
  #72  
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To the OP - Was it the first time you were on a hilly ride? If so, you might want to wait before spending money changing the gear(s). Try to ride hills a few more times to see if it gets better. You might find that given enough times, your current gears may just be more than adequate for riding any hills in Indiana.
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