I am one lucky guy, and a question.
11-05-12, 01:52 PM
#1
LBKA (formerly punkncat)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Jawja
Posts: 4,299
Bikes: Spec Roubaix SL4, GT Traffic 1.0
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2208 Post(s)
Liked 960 Times
in
686 Posts
I am one lucky guy, and a question.
The last couple of rides I have been on, I have noted my headset getting loose. I would get back, tighten it where the wheel would have some resistance, back it off a touch and tighten everything down. Today I go out, got about five miles from home and noted my headset knocking really hard. As I was going up a hill my whole stem pulled up off the steerer about 1/4". Wheel didn't turn, lucky for me, and I was able to limp back home. I pull everything apart to give it a look and all seems fine aside from the fact that the stem lock (w/e it's called) has pulled out of the fork steerer.
I check everything over again, put it back in and tighten it down to spec. Every time I tighten the stem cap, it loosens the lock. I have even tightened the lock a bit past spec and am still having the issue, I cannot get the headset tight enough to stop the front end from knocking, or even to the point of making the front wheel harder to turn. Is there something I am missing here?
I check everything over again, put it back in and tighten it down to spec. Every time I tighten the stem cap, it loosens the lock. I have even tightened the lock a bit past spec and am still having the issue, I cannot get the headset tight enough to stop the front end from knocking, or even to the point of making the front wheel harder to turn. Is there something I am missing here?
11-05-12, 01:57 PM
#2
pan y agua
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 31,296
Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1441 Post(s)
Liked 710 Times
in
364 Posts
There are different setups for pretensioning a head set. Sounds like you have an expander plug. Brand type, and preferably pics will help people diagnose exactly what's going on.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
11-05-12, 02:08 PM
#3
Senior Member
When you are all done, the pinch bolts should be holding the stem on and should be the last thing you tighten. At that point you should technically be able to remove the top cap and have the headset still function correctly.
Are you sure your races and bearings were all the way in?
Last edited by canam73; 11-05-12 at 02:12 PM.
11-05-12, 02:13 PM
#4
One legged rider
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Moraga, CA
Posts: 1,390
Bikes: Kuota Kharma, Surly LHT, CAAD9, Bianchi fg/ss
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Once you tighten your top cap down to compress the headset, tighten your pinch bolts on the stem completely. The stem is the bit holding the whole thing together, with the cop cap just doing the initial compression.
once completely put together, you should be able to remove your top cap with no affect. Sounds like your star nut inside was slipping.
once completely put together, you should be able to remove your top cap with no affect. Sounds like your star nut inside was slipping.
11-05-12, 02:22 PM
#5
LBKA (formerly punkncat)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Jawja
Posts: 4,299
Bikes: Spec Roubaix SL4, GT Traffic 1.0
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2208 Post(s)
Liked 960 Times
in
686 Posts
I understand how it's supposed to work, I put bikes together all the time. My bike is carbon steerer, so no star nut (thx), it is a compression bolt which seems to operate properly when in my hand.
I am pushing the compression bolt in as far as it will go down, about 1/8" from the top of the steerer tube. Then insert long end of allen key through the threads to the bottom of the bolt inside that assy and tightening past spec a little (as the 5nm speced isn't doing it). Put on the top cap and tighten until the steering is just a bit tight and back off a hair for smooth turning. Then tighten stem bolts.
The issue is, at the point where I am attempting to tighten the cap bolt, it's pulling the compression nut up to the stem cap.
I am pushing the compression bolt in as far as it will go down, about 1/8" from the top of the steerer tube. Then insert long end of allen key through the threads to the bottom of the bolt inside that assy and tightening past spec a little (as the 5nm speced isn't doing it). Put on the top cap and tighten until the steering is just a bit tight and back off a hair for smooth turning. Then tighten stem bolts.
The issue is, at the point where I am attempting to tighten the cap bolt, it's pulling the compression nut up to the stem cap.
11-05-12, 02:45 PM
#6
blah blah blah
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,520
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I understand how it's supposed to work, I put bikes together all the time. My bike is carbon steerer, so no star nut (thx), it is a compression bolt which seems to operate properly when in my hand.
I am pushing the compression bolt in as far as it will go down, about 1/8" from the top of the steerer tube. Then insert long end of allen key through the threads to the bottom of the bolt inside that assy and tightening past spec a little (as the 5nm speced isn't doing it). Put on the top cap and tighten until the steering is just a bit tight and back off a hair for smooth turning. Then tighten stem bolts.
The issue is, at the point where I am attempting to tighten the cap bolt, it's pulling the compression nut up to the stem cap.
I am pushing the compression bolt in as far as it will go down, about 1/8" from the top of the steerer tube. Then insert long end of allen key through the threads to the bottom of the bolt inside that assy and tightening past spec a little (as the 5nm speced isn't doing it). Put on the top cap and tighten until the steering is just a bit tight and back off a hair for smooth turning. Then tighten stem bolts.
The issue is, at the point where I am attempting to tighten the cap bolt, it's pulling the compression nut up to the stem cap.
It could be that the initial installation or repeated removal and reinstallation of the plug has scored or changed the inner diameter of your steerer, just guessing/grasping at straws here. You might want to shine a flashlight down into the steerer and take a close look as well as feeling the inside with your bare fingers for any irregularities. I might be paranoid enough to pull the fork and try the tap test on the steerer. You really were lucky to avoid a bad crash, IMHO...
11-05-12, 02:46 PM
#7
OM boy
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Goleta CA
Posts: 4,350
Bikes: a bunch
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 503 Post(s)
Liked 631 Times
in
430 Posts
if the stem is lifting up after you tighten the stem pinch bolts, then you have more to worry about than just the expander plug.
I would check the steerer tube at the fork crowm area, to see if anything is going on down there...
There's really no need to haul down on the cap/expander bolt much more than lightly snug, enough to take play out of the races without binding the steering...
I might check that the steerer tube, depending on how it's inserted and held in the fork crown, isn't coming up/loose - could be serious. what bike/fork? does it look visually as though the steerer is longer than before - quarter inch rise - would likely mean the cap should be hitting the steerer before the stem goes snug...
pics always help a lot, because how we interpret what you are writing could also be completely wrong...
and if the steerer is carbon over alloy inner sleeve, then the carbon could be separating from the alloy sleeve and coming up and loose - check that both the carbon and alloy inner are flush at the steerer top.
I would check the steerer tube at the fork crowm area, to see if anything is going on down there...
There's really no need to haul down on the cap/expander bolt much more than lightly snug, enough to take play out of the races without binding the steering...
I might check that the steerer tube, depending on how it's inserted and held in the fork crown, isn't coming up/loose - could be serious. what bike/fork? does it look visually as though the steerer is longer than before - quarter inch rise - would likely mean the cap should be hitting the steerer before the stem goes snug...
pics always help a lot, because how we interpret what you are writing could also be completely wrong...
and if the steerer is carbon over alloy inner sleeve, then the carbon could be separating from the alloy sleeve and coming up and loose - check that both the carbon and alloy inner are flush at the steerer top.
Last edited by cyclezen; 11-05-12 at 03:06 PM.
11-05-12, 03:16 PM
#8
pan y agua
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 31,296
Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1441 Post(s)
Liked 710 Times
in
364 Posts
if the stem is lifting up after you tighten the stem pinch bolts, then you have more to worry about than just the expander plug.
I would check the steerer tube at the fork crowm area, to see if anything is going on down there...
There's really no need to haul down on the cap/expander bolt much more than lightly snug, enough to take play out of the races without binding the steering...
I might check that the steerer tube, depending on how it's inserted and held in the fork crown, isn't coming up/loose - could be serious. what bike/fork? does it look visually as though the steerer is longer than before - quarter inch rise - would likely mean the cap should be hitting the steerer before the stem goes snug...
pics always help a lot, because how we interpret what you are writing could also be completely wrong...
I would check the steerer tube at the fork crowm area, to see if anything is going on down there...
There's really no need to haul down on the cap/expander bolt much more than lightly snug, enough to take play out of the races without binding the steering...
I might check that the steerer tube, depending on how it's inserted and held in the fork crown, isn't coming up/loose - could be serious. what bike/fork? does it look visually as though the steerer is longer than before - quarter inch rise - would likely mean the cap should be hitting the steerer before the stem goes snug...
pics always help a lot, because how we interpret what you are writing could also be completely wrong...
The stem on our tandem uses a glued in sleeve to hold the star nut. Our headset kept working itself looose, despite repeated reassembly, torquing everything to spec. Turned out the expoxy bond had failed, and the sleeve was sliding up gradually over time. Re epoxied in place and it works fine now.
Another data point, there are top caps where you remove the expander bolt after the stem bolts are tightened, and just put a plug in the end. https://fairwheelbikes.com/veloflyte-...ps-p-5382.html
Most reports are that these suck, and the headset works its way loose over time.
So I'd second inspecting the steerer tube for damage, cleaning, using assembly paste and reinstalling torquing to spec. You might also want to consider a new expander plug. FSA's are good, albeit a tad heavy.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
11-05-12, 04:01 PM
#9
LBKA (formerly punkncat)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Jawja
Posts: 4,299
Bikes: Spec Roubaix SL4, GT Traffic 1.0
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2208 Post(s)
Liked 960 Times
in
686 Posts
The bike is a Felt F5 '10 model. I noticed the problem after riding a pretty rough paved trail in VA a few weeks ago. I think the stem slipping up the steerer was a result of my not having the pinch bolts tight enough, but the compression bolt slip could well have been an issue even before that. I have been using one of the ritchey torque tools and it is my understanding that they are notorious for being incorrect and inconsistent on spec.
11-05-12, 04:11 PM
#10
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Wait... you're a guy ?
11-05-12, 04:33 PM
#11
OM boy
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Goleta CA
Posts: 4,350
Bikes: a bunch
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 503 Post(s)
Liked 631 Times
in
430 Posts
ah, "stem slipping up the steerer was a result of my not having the pinch bolts tight enough" would be a key statement.
once you get past the 1/4 inch slip - with loose pinch bolts ...
did you suddenly have the 1/4 inch or did you just notice it after some ridin time?
annyway
like Merlinextralight says, a cap does help keep the stem from working a bit loose, but to slip a 1/4 inch means something else is at play.
if you have the fork off - I would still check the steerer at the crown, just to sleep moe betta.
then maybe clean that steerer inside and out
maybe find another expansion plug which fits into that steerer.
set it up again.
Don;t know about Ritchey torque wrench, but I have a small wrench 1/4 in drive which goes from 20 to 140 in lbs (no Nm scale... so I convert) which I bought a good while back to work on my motos... Nothing fancy, break/click, not the moveable wand indicator, adapter takes all hex and other bit type sizes. My car mech checked a couple bolts I did on my car and it came pretty much dead on same as his expensive snapon... prolly not for heavyduty day-in-dayout use, but for the garage mech it's worth the $50-60 ish I spent some yrs back.
once you get past the 1/4 inch slip - with loose pinch bolts ...
did you suddenly have the 1/4 inch or did you just notice it after some ridin time?
annyway
like Merlinextralight says, a cap does help keep the stem from working a bit loose, but to slip a 1/4 inch means something else is at play.
if you have the fork off - I would still check the steerer at the crown, just to sleep moe betta.
then maybe clean that steerer inside and out
maybe find another expansion plug which fits into that steerer.
set it up again.
Don;t know about Ritchey torque wrench, but I have a small wrench 1/4 in drive which goes from 20 to 140 in lbs (no Nm scale... so I convert) which I bought a good while back to work on my motos... Nothing fancy, break/click, not the moveable wand indicator, adapter takes all hex and other bit type sizes. My car mech checked a couple bolts I did on my car and it came pretty much dead on same as his expensive snapon... prolly not for heavyduty day-in-dayout use, but for the garage mech it's worth the $50-60 ish I spent some yrs back.
11-05-12, 05:02 PM
#12
One legged rider
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Moraga, CA
Posts: 1,390
Bikes: Kuota Kharma, Surly LHT, CAAD9, Bianchi fg/ss
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I understand how it's supposed to work, I put bikes together all the time. My bike is carbon steerer, so no star nut (thx), it is a compression bolt which seems to operate properly when in my hand.
I am pushing the compression bolt in as far as it will go down, about 1/8" from the top of the steerer tube. Then insert long end of allen key through the threads to the bottom of the bolt inside that assy and tightening past spec a little (as the 5nm speced isn't doing it). Put on the top cap and tighten until the steering is just a bit tight and back off a hair for smooth turning. Then tighten stem bolts.
The issue is, at the point where I am attempting to tighten the cap bolt, it's pulling the compression nut up to the stem cap.
I am pushing the compression bolt in as far as it will go down, about 1/8" from the top of the steerer tube. Then insert long end of allen key through the threads to the bottom of the bolt inside that assy and tightening past spec a little (as the 5nm speced isn't doing it). Put on the top cap and tighten until the steering is just a bit tight and back off a hair for smooth turning. Then tighten stem bolts.
The issue is, at the point where I am attempting to tighten the cap bolt, it's pulling the compression nut up to the stem cap.
first time I messed with it I had to look up an Internet tutorial to teach me how to do it. It took me a while to figure it out.
11-06-12, 12:48 PM
#13
John Wayne Toilet Paper
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Roanoke
Posts: 1,952
Bikes: BH carbon, Ritchey steel, Kona aluminum
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I understand how it's supposed to work, I put bikes together all the time. My bike is carbon steerer, so no star nut (thx), it is a compression bolt which seems to operate properly when in my hand.
I am pushing the compression bolt in as far as it will go down, about 1/8" from the top of the steerer tube. Then insert long end of allen key through the threads to the bottom of the bolt inside that assy and tightening past spec a little (as the 5nm speced isn't doing it). Put on the top cap and tighten until the steering is just a bit tight and back off a hair for smooth turning. Then tighten stem bolts.
The issue is, at the point where I am attempting to tighten the cap bolt, it's pulling the compression nut up to the stem cap.
I am pushing the compression bolt in as far as it will go down, about 1/8" from the top of the steerer tube. Then insert long end of allen key through the threads to the bottom of the bolt inside that assy and tightening past spec a little (as the 5nm speced isn't doing it). Put on the top cap and tighten until the steering is just a bit tight and back off a hair for smooth turning. Then tighten stem bolts.
The issue is, at the point where I am attempting to tighten the cap bolt, it's pulling the compression nut up to the stem cap.
11-06-12, 02:21 PM
#14
pan y agua
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 31,296
Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1441 Post(s)
Liked 710 Times
in
364 Posts
The 1/8" from the top of the steerer is what I'm quesioning. Is it possible the top cap (which is often convex) is bottoming out on the top of the expander plug?
There needs to be some clearence between the top of the plug and the top cap.
There needs to be some clearence between the top of the plug and the top cap.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
11-07-12, 11:08 AM
#15
LBKA (formerly punkncat)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Jawja
Posts: 4,299
Bikes: Spec Roubaix SL4, GT Traffic 1.0
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2208 Post(s)
Liked 960 Times
in
686 Posts
It has plenty of room to put on pre-load when it doesn't pull the expander plug up. I am taking it up to the shop to have to look it over and make sure there is no steerer tube damage, etc. I got it in, and tightened well enough that I think it will be ok, but there is more going on than just what meets (my) eye. The loosening of this headset has been a constant issue with this bike since shortly after I got it. I am of the belief that this expander plug has been giving me issue all along and I am just now coming to find what it actually was.
11-07-12, 03:45 PM
#16
LBKA (formerly punkncat)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Jawja
Posts: 4,299
Bikes: Spec Roubaix SL4, GT Traffic 1.0
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2208 Post(s)
Liked 960 Times
in
686 Posts
The issue turned out to be a broken steerer. The stem slip was a direct result of that, and what has been an ongoing issue for about three (or more) months with it needing constant tightening. I have had it in the shop no less than three times over that duration to have it adjusted. Took it in today and we disassembled the front end and found delamination of the steerer tube. It is the mechanics opinion that the torque spec on the stem (8-10nm) was too high for the replacement fork...this is the second fork after a recall on the first. The damage appears to be over tightening. It is in the hands of the warranty dept now, so we will see. The direct result being that I am without a bike for the unforeseeable future.
The plus side is that I can ride my wife's recumbent for a while.
If it turns out not to be warrantied, I am unsure whether or not I am going to replace the fork. Estimate on the fork alone from Felt is $400+. I was advised against going aftermarket due to the control taper front end and rake/lines of the fork. My confidence is shattered, as this is the second fork to be on the bike and it will be really hard to feel comfortable on it again. I am already looking at possible replacements and may order a "demo" Roubaix from Specialized in 61, or look into something steel. At this point I am so sick about it that I feel weak honestly. I JUST put a set of Zipps on it and it is coming into my favorite time of year to be riding. I will make a further decision about it in a few days assuming I hear something back in that short amount of time. Overall, it really sucks because this has been a wonderful riding bike for me, I really like it, but as I say I just don't know if I will ever feel really confident on it again.
The plus side is that I can ride my wife's recumbent for a while.
If it turns out not to be warrantied, I am unsure whether or not I am going to replace the fork. Estimate on the fork alone from Felt is $400+. I was advised against going aftermarket due to the control taper front end and rake/lines of the fork. My confidence is shattered, as this is the second fork to be on the bike and it will be really hard to feel comfortable on it again. I am already looking at possible replacements and may order a "demo" Roubaix from Specialized in 61, or look into something steel. At this point I am so sick about it that I feel weak honestly. I JUST put a set of Zipps on it and it is coming into my favorite time of year to be riding. I will make a further decision about it in a few days assuming I hear something back in that short amount of time. Overall, it really sucks because this has been a wonderful riding bike for me, I really like it, but as I say I just don't know if I will ever feel really confident on it again.
11-07-12, 03:50 PM
#17
pan y agua
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 31,296
Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1441 Post(s)
Liked 710 Times
in
364 Posts
10nm is a lot of torque on a CF steerer.
This gets back to the issue that torque spec on stem bolts are for the bolts not the steerer, and are not required ranges, but maximums.
Use CF paste and tighten it enough to hold firmly, which should be way below 10nm
This gets back to the issue that torque spec on stem bolts are for the bolts not the steerer, and are not required ranges, but maximums.
Use CF paste and tighten it enough to hold firmly, which should be way below 10nm
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
11-07-12, 04:11 PM
#18
OM boy
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Goleta CA
Posts: 4,350
Bikes: a bunch
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 503 Post(s)
Liked 631 Times
in
430 Posts
The issue turned out to be a broken steerer.... It is the mechanics opinion that the torque spec on the stem (8-10nm) was too high for the replacement fork...this is the second fork after a recall on the first. The damage appears to be over tightening. It is in the hands of the warranty dept now, so we will see. The direct result being that I am without a bike for the unforeseeable future.
If it turns out not to be warrantied, I am unsure whether or not I am going to replace the fork. Estimate on the fork alone from Felt is $400+. I was advised against going aftermarket due to the control taper front end and rake/lines of the fork...
... Overall, it really sucks because this has been a wonderful riding bike for me, I really like it, but as I say I just don't know if I will ever feel really confident on it again.
If it turns out not to be warrantied, I am unsure whether or not I am going to replace the fork. Estimate on the fork alone from Felt is $400+. I was advised against going aftermarket due to the control taper front end and rake/lines of the fork...
... Overall, it really sucks because this has been a wonderful riding bike for me, I really like it, but as I say I just don't know if I will ever feel really confident on it again.
if, however the warranty doesn't come thru, I would advise the LBS that you will take them to Small Claims, if the fork replacement is not made good. If said replacement fork for a 'recall' went south under clear install guidlelines/specs and the fork was installed by the LBS, then ultimately the LBS is responsible, to you, to make good.
My guess is a judge will side with you on this. Small Claims would cover the fork and all costs associated with replacement.
The LBS then has to take it up with Felt...
in your shoes, I would not take the hit...
BTW - lucky you didn't 'Hincapie'...
Last edited by cyclezen; 11-07-12 at 04:47 PM.
11-07-12, 05:38 PM
#20
John Wayne Toilet Paper
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Roanoke
Posts: 1,952
Bikes: BH carbon, Ritchey steel, Kona aluminum
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I agree 10Nm is far too high to be tightening a stem on a carbon steerer. Was this the torque that the shop used or that you used? Did the shop tell you that value was OK?
11-07-12, 05:40 PM
#21
LBKA (formerly punkncat)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Jawja
Posts: 4,299
Bikes: Spec Roubaix SL4, GT Traffic 1.0
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2208 Post(s)
Liked 960 Times
in
686 Posts
It's the value the stem has stamped on it for the stem spec. The shop has been using 8, I have been using less.
11-07-12, 11:50 PM
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mountain View, CA
Posts: 1,257
Bikes: 2012 Scott CR1 Comp
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
5Nm is what I use on my carbon steerer. Already had a crack in the top of the steerer (cut off that section at the shop) from the previous owner of the frame most likely, and do not wanna have to go to an aftermarket steerer. The Ritchey torque key is a total POS. Crushed a seatpost with that thing. The bontrager key seems to be much better (easier to use, too).
11-08-12, 11:07 AM
#23
LBKA (formerly punkncat)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Jawja
Posts: 4,299
Bikes: Spec Roubaix SL4, GT Traffic 1.0
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2208 Post(s)
Liked 960 Times
in
686 Posts
What do you mean by aftermarket steerer? As in, aftermarket fork?
I am hoping not to have to go that way either.
I am hoping not to have to go that way either.
11-08-12, 12:56 PM
#25
blah blah blah
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,520
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Took it in today and we disassembled the front end and found delamination of the steerer tube. It is the mechanics opinion that the torque spec on the stem (8-10nm) was too high for the replacement fork...this is the second fork after a recall on the first.
If it turns out not to be warrantied, I am unsure whether or not I am going to replace the fork. Estimate on the fork alone from Felt is $400+. I was advised against going aftermarket due to the control taper front end and rake/lines of the fork. My confidence is shattered, as this is the second fork to be on the bike and it will be really hard to feel comfortable on it again. I am already looking at possible replacements and may order a "demo" Roubaix from Specialized in 61, or look into something steel. At this point I am so sick about it that I feel weak honestly.
If it turns out not to be warrantied, I am unsure whether or not I am going to replace the fork. Estimate on the fork alone from Felt is $400+. I was advised against going aftermarket due to the control taper front end and rake/lines of the fork. My confidence is shattered, as this is the second fork to be on the bike and it will be really hard to feel comfortable on it again. I am already looking at possible replacements and may order a "demo" Roubaix from Specialized in 61, or look into something steel. At this point I am so sick about it that I feel weak honestly.
