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FSA bb30 crank - creaking noise :-(

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FSA bb30 crank - creaking noise :-(

Old 12-18-12, 10:00 PM
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kevmk81 
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FSA bb30 crank - creaking noise :-(

My new CAAD10 is making some unwanted noise.

This isn't my video, but it's exactly what my crank is doing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=67LN4So7kAQ

What the heck is the problem? Do I need to clean out the bottom bracket and re-grease or somethin'?
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Old 12-18-12, 10:14 PM
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Sounds like bearings moving in there. pull them out and press them in with Loctite Retaining compound. Pretty normal on BB30
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Old 12-18-12, 11:33 PM
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Try to tighten the crankarm bolt.
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Old 12-19-12, 12:59 AM
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Creaky BB30 setups seem to be the #1 complaint LBS mechanics deal with these days (according to a mech forum I visit here and there). Seems to be the nature of the beast...
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Old 12-19-12, 02:56 AM
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i would remove the BB and test the bearings.

in the video it appears that the crank is unstressed. i would think that there would be little to make noise but the bearings....
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Old 12-19-12, 07:56 AM
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Darb85 nailed it.

This has been discussed dozens of times on these and other cycling forums. It is a common issue in BB30 systems, particularly Cannondales - I've had this issue on my three Cannondale BB30 frames. Take the bearings out, use the light (green) Loctite and everything will be fine.

As for Hamster's comment, the crank arm bolt should be tightened to torque specs and no more.
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Old 12-19-12, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by topflightpro View Post
Darb85 nailed it.

This has been discussed dozens of times on these and other cycling forums. It is a common issue in BB30 systems, particularly Cannondales - I've had this issue on my three Cannondale BB30 frames. Take the bearings out, use the light (green) Loctite and everything will be fine.

As for Hamster's comment, the crank arm bolt should be tightened to torque specs and no more.
Couple quick questions:

First, I'm assuming that it shouldn't be ridden in this shape?

Second, which tools do I need to use to get to the bearings? I've looked at Park Tools website and this is what I'm finding, but not sure if I really need all of these to get to the bearings:

BBT-30.3
HHP-2 or HHP-3

Or, do I not need any of those at all? I'm able to remove the non-drive side crank easily, but didn't want to go any further than that last night, not wanting to screw anything else up.

Thanks for the help!
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Old 12-19-12, 08:33 AM
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I've taken BB30 cranks and bearings out and put them back in without any special tools. Just take your time and don't hamfist anything.
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Old 12-19-12, 09:18 AM
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Welcome to press fit BB's. It's the nature of the beast. Sloppy tolerances, easy manufacture. Bike companies love it. They create marketing language to make it seem like the best idea ever, because it's a lot less expensive for them.

Unfortunately, it's a huge problem for us.
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Old 12-19-12, 10:43 AM
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When I got my CAAD10 I pulled the bearings (actually replaced them with Phil Wood bearings) and re-installed them. I used loctite retaining compound which is often refered to as loctite green (609/640 etc etc). Grease the spindle and torque to specs. Do it once and do it right and you won't have any issues. If after you let the gapping compound cure you still have that noise then the BB shell may be off beyond typical tolerances and will require a new frame through warranty.
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Old 12-19-12, 11:17 AM
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Only thing I will add is..if he BB on the newest CAAD 10 is PF30 and not BB30 than the root cause of squeak maybe the pressed in delrin bushings and not the bearings in the delrin bushings moving around. No doubt Cannondale has a service manual on PDF that spec's their installation procedure. By comparison, Specialized now spec's epoxy to literally glue delrin PF30 bushings to all carbon BB. Cannondale may spec a different procedure for their AL BB on their CAAD 10. With proper procedure, though inconvenient, you should be able to quiet your BB.
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Old 12-19-12, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Campag4life View Post
By comparison, Specialized now spec's epoxy to literally glue delrin PF30 bushings to all carbon BB.
Off-topic, but all of this stuff with BB30/PF30 is starting to get frightening. When the "fix" is a permanent modification to the frame I think it's hard to say that the original design isn't flawed.
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Old 12-19-12, 11:50 AM
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Yeah, maybe I'll stick with GXP. I can service that myself, too--which is nice.
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Old 12-19-12, 12:25 PM
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i had BB30 creak and it sounded nothing like that. that's a horrifying noise. might was a slight creak at around 1-2 o clock drive side. when i would torque hard (climbs sprints). then it started to creep towards the non drive side and light spin work. i just bought hollowgrams to replace the sram red in hopes to cure it
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Old 12-19-12, 12:36 PM
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BB30 is actually really easy to service. You can get the installation and removal tools for about 40 bucks total, and the bearings can be had for like 15 bucks.
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Old 12-19-12, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by kevmk81 View Post
Couple quick questions:

First, I'm assuming that it shouldn't be ridden in this shape?

Second, which tools do I need to use to get to the bearings? I've looked at Park Tools website and this is what I'm finding, but not sure if I really need all of these to get to the bearings:

BBT-30.3
HHP-2 or HHP-3

Or, do I not need any of those at all? I'm able to remove the non-drive side crank easily, but didn't want to go any further than that last night, not wanting to screw anything else up.

Thanks for the help!
If it is a new bike take it to a dealer. All my BB30 noises came under load, never like that video. Must be bad bearings as it sounds like a playing card in the spokes. Off to the shop you go.

DYI tools from Park are not cheap, about $100.00 if I remember. I bought a press and removal tool here on BF about a year ago. Haven't had to use them yet. You could do it cheaper but don't mess it up. That won't be covered by the warranty if you do.
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Old 12-19-12, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by kevmk81 View Post
Couple quick questions:

First, I'm assuming that it shouldn't be ridden in this shape?

Second, which tools do I need to use to get to the bearings? I've looked at Park Tools website and this is what I'm finding, but not sure if I really need all of these to get to the bearings:

BBT-30.3
HHP-2 or HHP-3

Or, do I not need any of those at all? I'm able to remove the non-drive side crank easily, but didn't want to go any further than that last night, not wanting to screw anything else up.

Thanks for the help!
The BBT 30.3 is all you need to remove the bearings. It also comes with the bushings needed for installing bb30/pf30 bearings back into the frameset.

You can make your own pressfit tool for about $5.
- 5/8 threaded rod (1ft.)
- 5/8 nuts (2)
- washers (2) *same or slightly larger diameter as the bushings

If you look at the park tool hhp-3, the DIY tool works exactly the same. You'll need two wrenches on each end to work just like the handles on the hhp-3 tool.
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Old 12-19-12, 01:35 PM
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A further note per the post above...there is nothing frightening about BB/PF30...nor should one steer away from a frame with either because there are so many work arounds including sleeving of either if want to revert to GXP crank.
What is remarkable about BB30/PF30 is they can be a bit frustrating...but typically only if you don't use Loctite and adjust axial preload properly to keep bearing inner races from vibrating. BB/PF30 is simple...and bearings are cheap as mentioned. It isn't the end of the world and some even like the simplicity. I personally just take issue with a BB design that requires Loctite to keep it quiet. Life is so much easier with Shimano captured bearings threaded onto each side of a threaded BB...or Campy with pressed on bearings that simply push into threaded cups. So I believe that consumers are being hussled a bit by the change in BB technology. For the competent wrench this is just an annoyance...but shouldn't be a show stopper.
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Old 12-19-12, 02:24 PM
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Thanks everyone, I appreciate the help and advice! I think I'll take the route of buying Phil Wood bearings, and using green loctite to finish up the job. only thing is, I don't have a torque wrench to get everything torqued to spec... and I don't like the shop I bought the bike at... so ultimately I'll have to pay for this to be repaired. Oh well.
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Old 12-19-12, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Impreza_aL View Post
i had BB30 creak and it sounded nothing like that. that's a horrifying noise. might was a slight creak at around 1-2 o clock drive side. when i would torque hard (climbs sprints). then it started to creep towards the non drive side and light spin work. i just bought hollowgrams to replace the sram red in hopes to cure it

Do you have lightweight skewers? Usually that's the first thing to check if you get that squeak. Might not be strong enough or tight enough. I had a shop not put one on tight enough and had to pull over to fix it.
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Old 12-19-12, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by kevmk81 View Post
Thanks everyone, I appreciate the help and advice! I think I'll take the route of buying Phil Wood bearings, and using green loctite to finish up the job. only thing is, I don't have a torque wrench to get everything torqued to spec... and I don't like the shop I bought the bike at... so ultimately I'll have to pay for this to be repaired. Oh well.
The Park beam-type wrenches are not that expensive.
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Old 12-19-12, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by topflightpro View Post
As for Hamster's comment, the crank arm bolt should be tightened to torque specs and no more.
Yes. However, in my BB30 crankset, the crank arm bolt has to be tightened to 45-55 N*m (33-40 ft*lb). It is (almost) impossible to reach 45 N*m with a hand-held allen wrench, so overtightening is not really an issue. The OP says that he's "able to remove the non-drive side crank easily", which tells me that the bolt is almost certainly loose.

I would suggest, before you go and buy a bottom bracket tool, to tighten the bolt by hand as far as you can, see if that makes the problem go away, and, if it does, buy a torque wrench and an appropriate socket and tighten it to spec.

Last edited by hamster; 12-19-12 at 02:58 PM.
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Old 12-19-12, 03:14 PM
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I have had this same issue, the bearings need to have loctite applied and re-seated.
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Old 12-19-12, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by hamster View Post
Yes. However, in my BB30 crankset, the crank arm bolt has to be tightened to 45-55 N*m (33-40 ft*lb). It is (almost) impossible to reach 45 N*m with a hand-held allen wrench, so overtightening is not really an issue. The OP says that he's "able to remove the non-drive side crank easily", which tells me that the bolt is almost certainly loose.

I would suggest, before you go and buy a bottom bracket tool, to tighten the bolt by hand as far as you can, see if that makes the problem go away, and, if it does, buy a torque wrench and an appropriate socket and tighten it to spec.
If you don't use a torque wrench then make sure not to fully compress the wavy washer. You will damage the bearings eventually.
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Old 12-20-12, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by NWS Alpine View Post
If you don't use a torque wrench then make sure not to fully compress the wavy washer. You will damage the bearings eventually.
Not really. For most cranks, left arm torque has nothing to do with axial pre-load and wave washer compression. Most of the problems with BB/PF30...not all...is mechanics really don't understand the design. When there is a 30-40 ft-lb torque target, the left arm locates on fluted spindle to a hard 'shoulder'. Proper spacing of the crank and related wave washer compression is based upon spacers relative to BB shell width tolerance.

Last edited by Campag4life; 12-20-12 at 06:41 AM.
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