I need a new frame, my 2006 Scott rubs tires at chainstays....
 

When I run 25mm tires they rub the chainstays ever so slightly on my 2006 Scott CR1.

I need a new frame and I'm 200 lbs plus so help me out.

Not really interested in chinese direct.

Hmm.. you really need 25 mm tires?? Have you ever wonder that the bike was not designed to take 25 mm tires? I dont know the bike but some bikes cant take them because of a design issue. If you want wider tires get a collegiate bike from the 70's or a mountain bike, those two can take truck wheels w/o any problems :)... dont take me wrong but you are asking the wrong question, IMO the question is.. do i have to use 25 mm clinchers if the bike cant take them?

Im like 210, never used 25 mm clinchers. Paper say are faster but since im not racing no more i dont care to be an slowpo :) no need.. .done these and that already.

To finish, if you want to fix the issue the hard way just buy a new bike that can take the tires you want, is your money after all, dunno why do you ask here anyways :D The fix is quite simple, if you want to go the hard way is your choice dude :)

Good luck :D

Try different 25mm tires. 25mm tires are not all the same width, height, or shape. Which tires are you using?

Is the wheel centered and there is insufficient clearance on either side?

Some Scotts will not take 25's.

215 lbs here and ride 700 X 20's

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...P3000001-1.jpg

Try a tire that isn't as tall or get a 23. I. Have specialized armadillo 25s and tgey are cosiderably taller than other 25s and slightly taller than the 28s on my commuter

I mean they rub when out of the saddle.

just a tight fit.

the tire is a gatorskin.

If they rub first on one side and then the other when you're out of the saddle, you've probably got a wheel problem.

I've got a 2011 Specialized Allez E5 frameset that I've built up. I can run - barely - 700x28s, with the limiter being the rear brake rather than the frame. I've been running 700x23s on it because I've mounted fenders, and those are all that fit.

At your weight, you shouldn't have any problems with 700x23s. If you're trying to rationalize a new frameset/bike, though, far be it from us to dissuade you. :)

I'm with you, the frame should easily fit all 25s and maybe some 28's.
I have a frame with real tight clearance even for 23s and it's annoying. Frame rides great but the close clearance is a real issue if I'm on a long ride and break a spoke - PITA.
My Frame really isn't worth selling, unlike you're CR1, so it's my wkly climbing bike - short 7 mi ride to the climb, and then if it rubs a bit on the climb, that's more training. Otherwise it just hangs in the garage...

CR1 should be easy to sell...
you didn;t give a price range or preferences, so, my tarmac clears all the 25s i've tried and woulod prolly clear a 28 also. My Roubaix would seem like 'normal' clearance if I had a 28 on it...

if you're out checkin frames and want to see if a frame has enough clearance, measure forward from the center of rear dropout, along the chainstay, about 33.5 cm - then measure between the stays there. That's about where the widest spot of the tire aspect would be.

Do they rub all the time on both sides? are your wheels true? Are they mounted straight?

Well, if they rub, they rub... use 23mm tires. It's a barely noticeable difference anyway. I just put some Conti Gp4000s on my rear today, and that 25mm tire looks slimmer than my previous michelin pro3 tires. I didn't measure it, could be an optical illusion.

I'm with you, the frame should easily fit all 25s and maybe some 28's. <--- you are quite wrong, the guy bought the wrong bike that is different and looks like you have the same problem trying to understand that.

Racing configuration, 23s and with luck 25s... in a touring bike, you can put trailer truck tires to those ones if you want. Many guys just get the bikes because they look super slick and then when they want to adapt the bike to their necessities they complain that the manufacturer in their opinion screwed up******************** Like buying a Porsche that at some point disappointed you because the suspension is too hard... and is fault of Porsche that the car doesn't have cadillac suspension.

The manufacturer made a racing bike, not a bike to go sightseen with paniers and clearance for fenders and people just dont understand that little fact. I weight a ton but i did racing aswell when i was young and lesson one you learn is to pick the right bike for the ride you have. Stores do not care what you get after all the suckers want you money, if after a month the rider figure it out they picked the wrong bike then there you have it... rants and complain against the manufacturer. You want clearance for those moonbounce tires of yours just look for the non so slick models, all the non racing to sport models can stand pretty much any type of wide tire. In my de rosa you cant put anything but 23 mm tubulars, 23 mm clinchers will touch the seat tube clamp... i do not complain, my background is racing... the bike was built to race not to use darn paniers and beach bike clinchers, just making a point why the guys who rant about the manufacturer are wrong with their complains.

Now a days somebody said that wider is better, even some wheels companies are offering darn wider clincher wheels (god no in tubulars), and those wheels do not clear many of the top of the line RACING carbon bikes in the market either :) Lucky some sucker did not come up with the idea (and test it scientifically with data and stuff) that ride with your balls off the shorts will make you go faster or this is the time we could see a lot of suckers screaming of pain while riding a bike. The things are way simpler than they look IMO.

:D

ps: santa did not get me any gift! :P

There is a wide difference in tires. What is marked on the sidewall bears little resemblance to what the actual tire's width is when mounted. Especially now with such a wide variance in rim widths.

Conti tends to be narrower and shorter than say a Michelin is. OP mentioned conti so.... You're most likely sol.

You can ride 23's just fine. Having ridden above and below your stated weight for decades....23's are just fine. If you don't want to ride on 23's then really you should consider a different setup. Have fun with that as all performance road frames now are extremely tight due to aerodynamics and the air transition to the tire/wheel.

I order to get great clearance you might want to consider a high end cross bike. Just sayin.

Take a look at the Giant Defy frames. I have no idea if they'd work for you, but my daughter has an OCR - the predecessor to the Defy, so I'm thinking the frame is similar. That thing can take almost a 32. Not quite, but very close. I put 28 gatorskins on it this fall for her, and there's room to spare.

The Defy is a less-than-full-race type of frame, but fit properly, it will go as fast as you want it to. Especially if you put tires on it that make your ride more comfortable.

Sure, like some people say, you don't "need" to go with 25's or 28's. But I think it's a great idea. If you do you'll be able to use lower pressure which may improve your speed on two fronts: first, the rolling resistance is very likely be lower than using 23's at higher pressure. Second, you'll most probably be more comfortable which will lead to less fatigue, and more enthusiasm.

Sounds like the wheel is flexing a bit. It might help to have the spoke tension checked, or it might be normal.

^^^^^If you don't like 23's with standard wheels I would suggest getting some 23mm wide wheels. I am almost at your weight, and I love my Velocity A23's with 23mm Michelins. I've done a boat load of 80-125 mile rides on these on all kinds of roads with no complaints.

wow nearly 4k for a new specialized frame!http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=290606

yeah, new frames are not cheap

choices? a. buy a complete bike, pick the components you want from the the two bikes and put the remainder on the CR1 and sell it complete. If you don;t 'need' an Sworks Frame - the midline or even lower end bike models have the frames which were the top end 2 seasons ago...

b. buy a 'used' frame - being very selective on model and condition

c. buy a 'closeout' frame/bike -as in discontinued or prior season model - check out the Orbea Orcas at Comeptitivecyclist.com - especially the 2011 Orca Silver with Full 7900 Dura ace for $4000 near the list bottom - depending on what you can get for the full CR1, the difference might not be anywhere near as much as buying a frame and selling the CR1 frame - and full 7900 dura ace, nice.
caveat - I don;t know the stay clearance of the Orbeas, but I'm sure a shop like CompetitiveCyclist can get you that info...

Edit
D: buy a Motobecane Frame from BikesDirect.com - generic chinese with a 'label...

thx

You need a stiffer wheelset.

got new aeolus 5's

Fisher Cronus. These have extra clearance, and have fender mounts. So plenty of room for tires...

this looks nice, any comments?

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...RODUCT.ID=8378

One guy I ride with occasionally loves his, and he's going faster than he ever did on his Roubaix. I think these are on clearance because the aero effects weren't a big draw. It has an English threaded bottom bracket interface, so fitting your existent componentry shouldn't be much trouble.These are stiff and rugged, although a bit heavier than your CR1.

Confirm with the dealer that the frame will clear wide 25s. Also, the S-M-L size designation of these runs large, so consult on size with care.

Noce frame, what's the advantage ?

I know 2 guys who ride the Noah, one I would consider in the top tier of performance racing riders in the SB valley. He's been riding the Noah for at least 5 yrs and loves it. He's very 'normal' in body dims and about 5' 10", not sure which size he rides. It's very hard to hold his wheel when puts the power to the road - a race winning rider for decades... (he's also from back 'east'... :thumb:), I think he's early 40's and can still put the 20 yr olds to a hard test.
Don't know what the diffs are from the Noah to the Noah RS, but...
If the bike/frame does what you want (good tire clearance for the 23/25 sizes), and the frame geometry DIMS seems suitable, $1500 for this frame new, is a great deal ans a full Ultegra bike for $2500 is incredible!
...no, I get no commission from Comp Cyclist... they just seem to have some good deals on nice stuff... :thumb: