marqueemoon

As mentioned, the FSA was probably speced by the manufacturer to cut costs. From what I've heard they're not terrible though. I was considering a Gossamer cross set for my commuter until I found a deal on a takeoff R600.

Front shifting isn't super critical unless you're racing or doing a lot of fast group rides.

I'd save the money until you're ready to take a bigger step up.

RT

You all make good points, but the OP was two sentences long (or shoulda been). In general, your FSA will stand up well in Fredville.

cyclezen

I'm also perplexed why the 'same' components might shift different on different machines...
one thing I've noticed and not really had the chance to play with is where the FD/chain strikes the rings. ST angle makes a difference. More laid back ST (larger frames) have the FD pushing the chain onto the big ring, further back (given the same ring size) and steeper STs place the FD further forward and higher to the ring apex tangent...
Changing where the chain strikes the ring and how the ramping and pins catch the chain... and then add in the larger variables in chain design...
very complicated.
I sense there would be discernible differences, but without some real hand-ons different ST angles/bikes.
Since I pretty much ride the same size frames 56-57, I can't really compare ... and comparing my vintage 58/59 cm bikes with vintage FDs and Cranks is too much variable...
an all shimano 10 spd system seems to shift very nicely... I have one, otherwise I use KMC 10 spd chains on the other setups and use SRAM chains on all the 9 & 8 spd setups...

BoSoxYacht

Gossamer cranks aren't terrible, but the 105 crankset looks and shifts better
+1. Save the $$$ and ride more.

canam73

The problem some of have with "I had FSA ____ and then got Shimano ____ and shifting got better" is that during the switch there was inevitably a re-tuning of the FD and sometimes a new cable, new FD, new chain or all three. And often enough that is the most attention the system got up until that point.

It could be that in everyone of these cases a competent mechanic had exhausted all other possibilities. And I do not think FSA and Shimano shifting is equal. I have tuned bikes using FSA cranks and gotten them shifting respectably. As well as an all Shimano sytem? No, but in my experience nothing does. But I do think in some of these cases a solid tune up and maybe a new cable could provide shifting performance that is more than adequate. There are people riding thousands of trouble free miles on FSA cranks.

I think it's similar to people who get a $400 wheel upgrade that gives a vast improvement in "stiffness and snappyness and acceleration" over their "flexy boat anchor OEM wheels". In reality, the biggest difference between their new and old wheels was some stress relieving and proper tension.

Bah Humbug

I hate the look of the Gossamer enough that I don't use it - I just can't love a bike that has one. I want to ride a bike I like to look at, so that's enough for me.

Homebrew01

I've got a 1982 Campy Record crank and front derailleur, with no pins or ramped teeth. I use it on a converted old Cannondale running Campy 10 speed chain, Centaur shifters & rear derailleur. The darn things shifts perfectly. Just as well as my full modern Campy 10 bike.

fstshrk

I tune my own bikes. Switching from FSA Vero which is a low end crank to an older NOS Shimano Ultegra was like night and day both in terms of shift feel and stiffness.
Keep making assumptions to justify your point of view though, it's really helping

achoo

I have an FSA SRM. With pretty much brand-new chainrings.

It shifts like crap compared to every other crankset I have - Ultegra, Dura Ace, Campy Record, Shimano R700 compact. Dunno how it does it, but when dropping to the small chainring, the chain will sometimes "float" right on top of the small chainring and not engage the teeth, and I wind up pedaling against air. I've never seen any other crankset do that.

Shifting up to the big ring is somewhat of a random event - the shift happens some random time after the lever is pushed.

I can pull out the SRM, pop in an Ultegra after swapping BB cups, and the shifting will be immensely better.

canam73

You would smash your computer over somebody who said "I do not think FSA and Shimano shifting is equal" and "As well as an all Shimano sytem? No, but in my experience nothing does"?

Go for it.

Bikehog

On my new bike, it came with a stock FSA Gossamer 172.5 mm crank - 55cm frame. To provide me with little bit more maneuverability in the fitting, I requested a 170 mm crank prior to the bike beling delivered. Rec'd a 105 Shimano 170 mm crank. It's now a complete 105 group set . Shifts like a dream and is extremely quiet. The other side benefit of a quiet ride is that you instantly hear any new strange noise which usually should be addressed sooner than later. I never rode the bike, with the FSA crank - but I seriously doubt it would be as quiet or smooth. Just happy it worked out that way - would not be an upgrade I would make unless needed to - but going forward - I would definitely make that move as part of the initial build.

m2ber04

I'm in the same position. My tarmac came with a FSA Gossamer, rest of the bike is 105, except for the stupid tiagra chain. I was thinking of getting an ultegra crank but don't see they have the 52-36 "mid-compact". Only 105 does so now I'm considering that. The front shifting on FSA isn't awful but it could be better. alternatively I may switch my gearing up all together to a standard or compact and go for ultegra.

RT

You guys kill me. 'Stupid Tiagra chain'? Was 5600 105 a stupid chain?

Just proves my point about this forum being brainwashed at the Ultegra level.

m2ber04

ha I was being a little sarcastic. Obviously there is not much difference between that an a Ultegra level chain. It does kind of irk me that Specialized chooses to use that when the advertise the bike as 105... I will however when needing to replace the chain get at least a 105 or ultegra.

bikerjp

Might be the case with 105, but my synapse came with a gossamer pro and I thought the chainrings (or something) were a bit too flexy. Swapped with a force crank I had and much better.

RT

I understand. Most often we see bikes listed at a certain level only have a FD or RD at that level, with the rest being below by one of two grades. The truth is, unless dealing with true bottom of the barrel stuff, I start at the levers. If I like those, I can make the rest work no matter what level. Hell, the Lasco cranks I was talking about are on my bike simply because the outer ring and arms are black, and that matches the motif on the bike. Shimano cranks have always been brutally ugly to me, like something out of an early-80's Buck Rogers TV show. At least FSA gets higher marks for looks in my book.