Johnny Rebel

I'm 6'2" and 220 lbs. My advice is to get a tough rear wheel, almost of touring quality/sturdiness -- aluminum rims, good double-butted spokes and 32 or 36 spokes. This is the only part on the bike where being bigger will potentially wreak havoc. Breaking spokes is a pain. The front wheel won't be an issue nearly as much. I'd also recommend 700x28 or at least 700x25 tires, when you're bigger air is your friend. Aside from that, you shouldn't need to make any other concessions for weight, but then again I ride a steel frame. Getting a lighter bike might seem important, but the only weight that matters is you + the bike, so a couple of pounds extra on the bike won't be too big a deal IMO.

Johnny Rebel

As for size, I'm also 6'2" with long arms. I ride a 61 sized bike, but I had to shorten up the stem. If I had to do it over, I might ride a 58 or 59, but if you're in the ballpark you might need to do a similar inexpensive tweak on stem size.

asetech08

So with my arms out in front of me like as if I'm riding a bike I measured from my collarbone to a closed fist like as if Iwas holding the handlebars Imeasured 24" inseam is 37"

big john

I'm about your height and I prefer a 62 or 63. I can't run the bars as low as I used to so I use an uncut steer tube. To do this without too many spacers I need a head tube of 220mm, or so. Most bikes that big also have a long top tube, so I use a 90mm stem, angled up.
To see what I'm talking about get a bike and set the saddle height first. Your leg should be slightly bent at the bottom of the stroke. Now, are the bars too low?
I'm over simplifying here but only you can say what size you need and it can be a process.
The guys are right about wheels. If you can find a good wheel builder he can really help, either be building you a set or relacing and old set. I used to break spokes all the time until I found the right guy.

I put about 25,000 miles on a 63cm Cannondale CAAD5 and 30,000 on a 62cm Gunnar, both frames have been fine but I have broken 4 frames in the past.

BoomMcNasty

Your measuring the wrong body parts to find your inseam. This should help you with your measurements.

https://m.competitivecyclist.com/fit-calculator/

BoomMcNasty

Non mobile version...stupid smart phone.

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...LCULATOR_INTRO

asetech08

Yeah I measured my inseam right I barefoot too.

BoomMcNasty

Your right, I misread your post.

asetech08

Just did that
. Results

The Competitive Fit

Seat tube range c-c 59.2 - 59.7 Seat tube range c-t 61.1 - 61.6 Top tube length 56.0 - 56.4 Stem Length 11.6 - 12.2 BB-Saddle Position 86.1 - 88.1 Saddle-Handlebar 55.1 - 55.7 Saddle Setback 6.0 - 6.4

The Eddy Fit

Seat tube range c-c 60.4 - 60.9 Seat tube range c-t 62.3 - 62.8 Top tube length 56.0 - 56.4 Stem Length 10.5 - 11.1 BB-Saddle Position 85.3 - 87.3 Saddle-Handlebar 55.9 - 56.5 Saddle Setback 7.2 - 7.6

BoomMcNasty

56cm bike is where it's at.
I was fit at my LBS so they could order my CAAD and they recommended the same size as the Fit Calc.

asetech08

Is the frame size c-t 61cm for comp fit?

BoomMcNasty

If I'm not mistaken (I usually am) its the top tube length you look at. At 6' 2" and 37" inseam a 56 seems small.
Someone smarter please chime in on this.

elcruxio

Some cyclocross bikes tend to be a bit shorter and higher than actual road bikes, not to mention sturdier.

About the wheels, i built my own. 28 spokes front, 32 rear, mavic cxp33 rims and 25mm tubeless tires. They are serving me well, even though the rims deal with a tension of about 160kg per spoke (don't ask...)
Building and truing wheels is a very useful skill for heavier people and not really that difficult. Oh, and at my heaviest I was 240lbs.

asetech08

well that's good to know that some guys above 220 pounds can ride there bikes like the skinny guys just for what I've seen just riding around my area they are usually below 180. I've done body building back in the day so I'm 240 now and I want about 10—15 pounds more. So good to know Ican keep gaining weight. Thanks everyone for your great input and sending me to the right path of cycling.

qcpmsame 

I am the almost same size you are, 233 lbs. and 6'-1", an old guy, with a 31" inseam, I ride a 56cm CAAD 10 4 with the stock Fulcrum Racing7 wheels. They are 20h front and 24 h rear. I have had absolutely zero problems with these wheels and their spokes. If you feel your weight will give the wheels on a CAAD 9 with its stick wheelset get a set of wheels with 28, 32 or even 36 hole hubs/rims and use tyres like the Continental Gatorskins in 700X25 I use. Even if you gain the extra weight you want to add they will carry you just fine. I was 278 when I got the bike and lost the extra weight through riding. The stand over height you choose will need to be by sitting and riding the bike to see what size frame be it 56, 58, 60 or even 61 cm. The online fit calculators you used and that were rightly recommended will give you an idea of where to start looking.

As to your continuing to gain weight while you cycle, unless you are taking some supplements and eating a whole lot you will probably lose weight, even with continued heavy weight work. I did power lifting as a younger man and I commuted to college on a bike daily, I still lost weight due to the increased calories used and the exercise elevating my metabolism. I hope you will cycle more and just maintain or go down a bit and stay cut at your weight for the BB.

Good to see an Automotive Service Excellence Technician here, my son got his HS specialist certificate in Automotive Technology here. LEt us know what bike you choose, the CAAD 9 is a sought after frameset/bike these days, it was the last of the American Made Cannondale frames and is one sweet piece of engineering.

Bill

kstephens

I agree with a 62 probably being too large. I am 6'3 and ride a 60 cm trek, and I still had to make adjustments (shorter stem) to feel more comfortable. I will probably look at a 58 cm next time.

Campag4life

You did it wrong which btw is common. Re-measure yourself...only this time, have somebody help...do it three times and then average each dimension. There is no way a 6'2" guy can ride with a 56cm eff. top tube. I am 6'1" and a 59cm top tube is about right...can even ride a 60cm. Guys with longish legs tend to have longer arms.

But will cut to the chase since we are close to the same height....only I weigh 190#.
Your best bike size is 60-62cm depending on your 'preference' for riding position. A racer your height may even ride a 58 with 140mm stem...what I ride...but you will want slightly bigger and sizing to a 62cm will give you even more comfort with taller head tube and ride a slightly shorter stem. If you purchase a comfort geometry like a Roubaix which is my preference...opt for the 61cm. Once you learn the right position on the bike with proper saddle setback to get your weight back for your long legs and learn to rotate your pelvis forward for a relatively flat back at about 45 degrees on the hoods, your size rider will need a 120cm stem length or so.
Good luck and have fun. With discipline...lots of riding and careful food intake, you should melt that weight off. As you develop your riding, connect with group rides with some friendly competition which will elevate your speed and burn more calories. You'll love it.
Have fun.

dkizorek

I am 6'2 250 and researched for a year to buy my first carbon bike the other day to gear up for spring. I was fitted for a 58cm with 33in inseam but learned everyone is different and every bike is different. Last year I was 245, started riding an old Schwinn Ten speed and got hooked. I lost 15 pounds over the summer. Winter came and all that good food and lack of excersize tooks it toll. My goal is to get to 210. I never thought my weight was an issue with my new bike, but will now keep an eye on my nice wheels that came with my bike.

asetech08

will see that is the thing for me I am 24 years old and other than from when I did bodybuilding I have not lost any weight I even trained MMA for 1 year and never lost weight although I have always continue to the lift at the gym. my diet is pretty good if you want to call it a diet don't really eat out much I eat a lot of steak pasta I take a couple of protein shakes a day. but as for weight loss I am pretty lean for being 240 I have maybe about 10 pounds I can lose not sheeding off water weight. but I can say I'm probably in the 12 percent body fat range. Not bad for someone who drinks almost everyday but I haven't lost weight since I was 18 and competing. But its good to know that Ican do all of the above. Once again thanks everyone for there input and the more the better.

Campag4life

You are just a beast. Young and strong. Cycling will be a great adjunct for cardio and you maybe even lean out a bit more if that is your intention. I have raced with all sizes from really little guys and big guys and cycling doesn't discriminate really. What you lose in the hills you will make up on the flats and in the sprints.
Flexibility is important when considering a bike. If you aren't real flexible in particular, consider getting a comfort aka endurance geometry with taller head tube. If you are uber flexible...can palm the ground lock kneed...even with your mass...consider a standard race frame with shorter head tube.

Johnny Rebel

OP sounds like you're a muscular and fit guy. Get the bike you love and can afford. If you ride the original rear wheel into he ground then get something sturdier. Pretty much every factory bike in your budget has room for improvement regarding wheels. Same goes for gears - if you need a couple of extra low gears to get up the hills, thats also easy and pretty cheap to dial in Since you're big and strong, if your riding style is to mash and stand up on the pedals, you might put some extra force on the wheels too. Ride and learn what works for you, but you might as well get a bike that excites you. Best of luck!

rkwaki

K I'll chime in for a couple of reasons:
1. I'm big (5'10.5") and currently at 231 pounds - though I race anywhere from 180+
2. I'm strong as a silverback (fired out a 605 squat on Saturday)
3. I can ride - Cat 1
4. I have insane power (sprinter)

I have in the past few years cracked two BMC frames (once doing short intervals and not sure about the other). In my experience you may be big and strong but at this point you are not going to have the same power output as a much smaller rider that has big power so any of the frames you mentioned will work fine.
My advice on wheels is simple, heavy and lots of spokes. I have a set of handbuilt DT Swiss 32 hole wheels built on Ultegra hubs. This set has about 7,000 miles and have never been trued. They are 3 Cross Rear, 2 Cross front. I run about 125 psi in them all the time. Carbon wheels (though I have them) aren't necessary unless you are doing a lot of racing.
As you get more involved in the sport you may need to upgrade but stay away from carbon bars, stems and carbon railed saddles.

But most of all get out, have fun and make some new 'skinny' friends.

elcruxio

By my own empirical experiences the competetive cyclist calculator works fairly well (except perhaps for saddle setback, but that is highly individual and seems to follow no formula whatsoever)
What I got out of it was that I should have a effective top tube of 59-60cm and a stem of 120mm and I'm using a top tube of 58.9cm and a 130mm stem. I'm 6ft 4in with an inseam of 36.6in
If I had the handlebar level with the saddle that would be massively short, but as I sport 12cm of drop it works perfectly.
Now as the OP seems to be in fairly good shape with all that MMA and such, I think he might be good with a shorter frame and more drop. Only way to find out is to try.

I personally go with the smallest frame I can get away with, because normally big frames have way too much head tube.

BoomMcNasty

Weak sauce! I can lay on my back, grab my 2yr old daughters hands, put my feet on her chest, swing her around like she's flying and make airplane noises the whole time!

rkwaki

I can do that with my wife and 18 year old son...

At the same time...