Buying a bike one size too small query
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Hi,
I'm no spring chicken and bought a road bike with a downslanted toptube,
with the sort of typical standover clearance recommended for a roadbike.
I'm 5'8" (pretty average) so the net result is the bike is high at the front,
with a longer steertube than a flat toptube could ever accomodate.
(Given standard 700C wheels both ends.)
I also inverted the stem extension to lift the bars, and chopped and
flipped the bars into cowhorns. The result is a bike with the handlebars
about the same height as the ideal seat height for my leg extension.
Actually ended up being lower as I lifted the seat but not much.
The cowhorns could easily be lifted up if needed for less stretch.
Not the raciest set up, but it suits me.
For the sort of bike I bought going smaller won't help as
it drops the handlebars relative to ideal seat height, and
the threadless headset is difficult to extend in height.
rgds, sreten.
FWIW the effective top tube length is quite short and the bike
is claimed to fit 5'6" to 5'10", but my point is given the limited
height range of threadless headsets, sloped toptubes will give
a higher front end for a given standover clearance.
I'm no spring chicken and bought a road bike with a downslanted toptube,
with the sort of typical standover clearance recommended for a roadbike.
I'm 5'8" (pretty average) so the net result is the bike is high at the front,
with a longer steertube than a flat toptube could ever accomodate.
(Given standard 700C wheels both ends.)
I also inverted the stem extension to lift the bars, and chopped and
flipped the bars into cowhorns. The result is a bike with the handlebars
about the same height as the ideal seat height for my leg extension.
Actually ended up being lower as I lifted the seat but not much.
The cowhorns could easily be lifted up if needed for less stretch.
Not the raciest set up, but it suits me.
For the sort of bike I bought going smaller won't help as
it drops the handlebars relative to ideal seat height, and
the threadless headset is difficult to extend in height.
rgds, sreten.
FWIW the effective top tube length is quite short and the bike
is claimed to fit 5'6" to 5'10", but my point is given the limited
height range of threadless headsets, sloped toptubes will give
a higher front end for a given standover clearance.
Last edited by sreten; 04-17-13 at 07:09 PM.
#28
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I was surfing today and ran across the Specialized page where they showed the Roubaix SL4 Expert UI2 Compact on sale for $1000 off. Perfect! I called the dealer and asked for a quote. A few hours later he called back and said they were sold out. I guess that's how you put bikes on sale for a grand off is to not have any

I appreciate everyone's advice here and I think the wise thing to do is wait for a properly sized bike. Now that I have looked at this Roubaix, I can add it to my list of bikes to keep on the radar. The other bike I was looking at was a Domane and not a Madone. A Madone would be a bit more aggressive than what I can handle, at least right now.
So, thanks for the help and, Campag, if you want to give me your sizing wisdom, I would be most appreciative.
Thanks all.
#29
my nice bike is at home
"Size means nothing." (Now where have I heard that before?) Anyway I have 7 bikes all are different sizes (slightly)
There is no RIGHT size bike, believe that. You can get pretty close, though, so its better to stay close to your 'optimal' size, especially for you bike you will ride most often.
You can often get a super long stem and seat-post and have a fun little frame which is quite toss-able in the corners. Depends on what you will do with the bike.
There is no RIGHT size bike, believe that. You can get pretty close, though, so its better to stay close to your 'optimal' size, especially for you bike you will ride most often.
You can often get a super long stem and seat-post and have a fun little frame which is quite toss-able in the corners. Depends on what you will do with the bike.
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Do understand too, that unless you have an orthopedic problem, or are really in bad shape, your body acclimates to different positions.
After not having been on a bike in decades, when I got a bike last year, when I was 50, it was kind of a relaxed fit model- and it seemed a little strange at first- but I got used to it very fast. I went from that to a full race geometry bike recently, and now that I'm used to riding drop bars, the transition to the race bike was a non-issue. Witha bike that fits well, I think we can get used to positions that would surprise us, if we just give it a chance.
After not having been on a bike in decades, when I got a bike last year, when I was 50, it was kind of a relaxed fit model- and it seemed a little strange at first- but I got used to it very fast. I went from that to a full race geometry bike recently, and now that I'm used to riding drop bars, the transition to the race bike was a non-issue. Witha bike that fits well, I think we can get used to positions that would surprise us, if we just give it a chance.
#31
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For an older person you are better off with a bike that is one size too big. Outcome is that the seat height will be lower than the bars. My bike is probably a size too small and it makes my back ache after the ride.
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31 3/8 inches. Appreciate what insight you may offer.
I was surfing today and ran across the Specialized page where they showed the Roubaix SL4 Expert UI2 Compact on sale for $1000 off. Perfect! I called the dealer and asked for a quote. A few hours later he called back and said they were sold out. I guess that's how you put bikes on sale for a grand off is to not have any
I appreciate everyone's advice here and I think the wise thing to do is wait for a properly sized bike. Now that I have looked at this Roubaix, I can add it to my list of bikes to keep on the radar. The other bike I was looking at was a Domane and not a Madone. A Madone would be a bit more aggressive than what I can handle, at least right now.
So, thanks for the help and, Campag, if you want to give me your sizing wisdom, I would be most appreciative.
Thanks all.
I was surfing today and ran across the Specialized page where they showed the Roubaix SL4 Expert UI2 Compact on sale for $1000 off. Perfect! I called the dealer and asked for a quote. A few hours later he called back and said they were sold out. I guess that's how you put bikes on sale for a grand off is to not have any

I appreciate everyone's advice here and I think the wise thing to do is wait for a properly sized bike. Now that I have looked at this Roubaix, I can add it to my list of bikes to keep on the radar. The other bike I was looking at was a Domane and not a Madone. A Madone would be a bit more aggressive than what I can handle, at least right now.
So, thanks for the help and, Campag, if you want to give me your sizing wisdom, I would be most appreciative.
Thanks all.
I want to say that most of us here believe that buying a high end bike is a false economy if it doesn't fit. A mid level bike that fits well is better than a high end bike that doesn't.
If you are going to make a considerable expenditure in a really nice road bike, this is what I suggest. Go to Competitive Cyclist's website and perform their on line fit. This will require a significant other like a wife or girl friend to measure you. Do each body dimension 2-3 X's and take the average.
Perform the on line calculator and post the results here.
Your inseam for example could apply to a relatively small bike...like a 54. But you may be short legged for your height. Also how you measure your inseam matters. Ideally take a thin book and press it up to your PB. This is described on CC's website. We need your height, torso length, arm length etc which is where CC's calculator comes in.
From there we can help propose a bike. If you want an outstanding bike, try to find a Roubaix SL4. Ultegra is fine...you don't need electric shifting. The Expert model is very good...Pro is even a bit nicer and S-works is their race model which you will pay handsomely for. I like the Pro but the Expert is essentially the same frame with 10r carbon and different paint job.
Hope that helps.
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Do understand too, that unless you have an orthopedic problem, or are really in bad shape, your body acclimates to different positions.
After not having been on a bike in decades, when I got a bike last year, when I was 50, it was kind of a relaxed fit model- and it seemed a little strange at first- but I got used to it very fast. I went from that to a full race geometry bike recently, and now that I'm used to riding drop bars, the transition to the race bike was a non-issue. Witha bike that fits well, I think we can get used to positions that would surprise us, if we just give it a chance.
After not having been on a bike in decades, when I got a bike last year, when I was 50, it was kind of a relaxed fit model- and it seemed a little strange at first- but I got used to it very fast. I went from that to a full race geometry bike recently, and now that I'm used to riding drop bars, the transition to the race bike was a non-issue. Witha bike that fits well, I think we can get used to positions that would surprise us, if we just give it a chance.
#34
stole your bike
Indeed. I ride one size down but the fit works for me since I prefer a more aggressive position; the OP says he's older and comfort is important so staying away from a smaller frame makes sense.
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The answer that what he really wants is whether the particular bike he's looking to find actually fits him.
It's likely that, given the differences in frame size, the OP is just assuming it's too small.
Ideally, the OP would indicate the model of bike he has and the model of bike he is looking to buy.
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He shouldn't buy a bike that is too small.
The answer that what he really wants is whether the particular bike he's looking to find actually fits him.
It's likely that, given the differences in frame size, the OP is just assuming it's too small.
Ideally, the OP would indicate the model of bike he has and the model of bike he is looking to buy.
The answer that what he really wants is whether the particular bike he's looking to find actually fits him.
It's likely that, given the differences in frame size, the OP is just assuming it's too small.
Ideally, the OP would indicate the model of bike he has and the model of bike he is looking to buy.
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Hi,
FWIW doing some reading recently it was stated that for a compact
road bike bike frame (downsloped toptube) only 3 frame sizes with
different seat tube settings and different reach stem extensions
with standard limited bar height were needed to cover 99% of all
riders, so for this type you must get the right ballpark size.
rgds, sreten.
FWIW doing some reading recently it was stated that for a compact
road bike bike frame (downsloped toptube) only 3 frame sizes with
different seat tube settings and different reach stem extensions
with standard limited bar height were needed to cover 99% of all
riders, so for this type you must get the right ballpark size.
rgds, sreten.
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Much of this thread is overreacting about 2 cm.
The entire difference between a 60 cm and a 58 can be adjusted with headset spacers and stem length.
Finding the "proper" fit is mostly about finding a bike that is the closest to your sweet spot fit without adjustments and then adjusting from there.
Fit is not only about every bit of the bike's dimensions, but also about the minor adjustments you make to really make it work for you.
I have a semi-sloping and a conventional geometry bike, and they feel almost the same, because they are so similar in drop, top tube length, and ride position.
YMMV.
The entire difference between a 60 cm and a 58 can be adjusted with headset spacers and stem length.
Finding the "proper" fit is mostly about finding a bike that is the closest to your sweet spot fit without adjustments and then adjusting from there.
Fit is not only about every bit of the bike's dimensions, but also about the minor adjustments you make to really make it work for you.
I have a semi-sloping and a conventional geometry bike, and they feel almost the same, because they are so similar in drop, top tube length, and ride position.
YMMV.
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