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Bike fitting advice for smaller frame

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Bike fitting advice for smaller frame

Old 05-25-13, 08:46 AM
  #1  
mariachi
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Bike fitting advice for smaller frame

So I found this Olmo, 105 group and overall nice condition.
It was cheap, so being a size 51 wasn't a no-go argument. I pulled the trigger.

Since it didn't have a proper seatpost, I bought one. This is also the one with the most offset I could find here.

I can't really get a knee-over-ankle alignment, and I've maxed out the setback. It's not that much, but I think it will make me tired. I'll try to make a picture later.

The strange thing for me is that, in my commuter, which is slightly too big for me (56cm I think), I also need to almost max out the setback. Legs too big?

I am very flexible. The handlebar height is not a problem.

My inner leg measures ~81cm and I am ~ 172cm. Online calculators say I should ride a 53.



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Old 05-25-13, 08:49 AM
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CrankAndYank
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Originally Posted by mariachi View Post
I pulled the trigger.


Should I just buy a new bike?...
non sequitur
[ˈnɒn ˈsɛkwɪtə]
n1. a statement having little or no relevance to what preceded it
2. (Philosophy / Logic) Logic a conclusion that does not follow from the premises Abbreviation non seq[Latin, literally: it does not follow]

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Old 05-25-13, 09:00 AM
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mariachi
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noted..
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Old 05-25-13, 09:13 AM
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CrankAndYank
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Originally Posted by mariachi View Post
noted..
But to answer the question you didn't know you asked - Yes. Buy a new bike as well.
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Old 05-25-13, 11:57 AM
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what?
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Old 05-25-13, 12:48 PM
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You are roughly the same height and inseam as me. What is your current saddle height? (top of saddle to center of crank). Right now, I am running about 73 cm with a 5 cm set back of the saddles nose to the center of the crank on my 52 cm Allez. I am running a shorter stem than what I was fitted for (long arms...should be a 120mm, running a 100). I am comfortable on it when I ride. I do have to stretch my back at times on it during longer rides. Hope this helps a little. It can give you a good baseline to work with.

I ride a 54 cm Tarmac too, I have it pretty much dialed the same, but not officially fitted to it yet. I am a bit flatter with the 110mm stem, but its comfortable enough until I go in for a fit.
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Old 05-25-13, 01:57 PM
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OP, do you ever plan to have a bike that actually fits you, or do you think that is only for people who don't have money to waste? If a bike not fitting is not a "no-go argument", could you tell us what possibly could be?
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Old 05-25-13, 03:04 PM
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Mariachi
You have a very nice bike there in that Olmo. Whether it's top O the line tubing (for that era) or some small level lower, they, Olmo's have always been well made and fine riding machines. Yes, a very fine machine.
Based on it's vintage you would, back in the day, have been put on a larger size, yes. But given that, it's still able to be setup for you.
These days I try not get into specifics, BUT, if you're willing, give this a try...
Based on the basic numbers you've given, you're not out of the avg for your size.
And, I'm not sure what you mean or are tyring to do with "I can't really get a knee-over-ankle alignment".
Anyway, here goes...
With this era bike and size, the Seattube angle was likely steeper (74ish) than the near larger sizes 73.5ish), this is so that smaller riders can get a good position on their bike, hence maybe a slight, but not insurmountable setback issue.
I would try to find someone in your area who can give good assitance in you getting a good position.
In the meantime - put the saddle in a mid-rail position and level. then get the saddle height set, using the Lemond method OR (easier) mount the bike, get a roll goin, and then put your heels on the pedals, pedal backwards. Set the height so that you can pedal backwards, heel on pedal, with very little rocking of the hips to get a full circle with contact. Too much rocking, drop the height a couple mm until you have a smooth motion.
Then
put the bike on a level surface, on that bike you can put the level on the top tube to determine if you are level. Drop a plumb line from the saddle nose roughly past the horizontal line that would coincide with the BB. You may have to tilt the bike sideways a bit, so that the plumb line moves freely and is not impeded. Measure from the plumb line, horizontally to the center of the BB - that is your saddle setback.
Based on your measurements and what I see is a fairly std saddle - I would move the saddle on the rails until that 'saddle setback' is around 5.8 to 6.2 cm, 6 cm would be a good start... Over time, you can make small (2-3 mm) adjustments to tune the setback.
Now go put 2,000 or 3,000 miles on the bike. ride, ride ,ride
You can also 'tune' your saddle height over time. It's not uncommon to have to raise slightly as the miles pile on.
And once you get a few hundred miles you can start fine tuning the handlbar reach and position.
Get some good tires, they'll make a difference.
Join a local riding group
Forget whatever your commuter is set up as, the setup prolly needs some real attention...
Enjoy the Olmo
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Old 05-26-13, 05:35 AM
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I'm feeling pretty embarrassed.. When doing an initial adjustment I was tying to go for a "knee-over-pedal-spindle"! But instead I was trying to make my knee do 90º with the ankle!
I'm still a student, in the future I intend to have a bike professionally fit. Right now I simply can't afford that, and in my ignorance a bike two sizes smaller didn't seem to be a problem. And it seems.. it isn't! knee over ankle.... *sigh*

The stem is 100mm. I'm not very flat, but for now that's ok. The saddle is a San Marco Rolls, btw.

Thank you very much cyclezen and 36Oly_Rider! I will follow your advice.
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