Correct stem angle?
06-27-13, 06:57 PM
#1
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Correct stem angle?
What is the "correct" stem angle for a road bike? Is it supposed to be parallel to the top tube or to the ground?
Mine is pointed up to provide a more relaxed fit. If I flip it, will I get more aero, and hence, faster?
Mine is pointed up to provide a more relaxed fit. If I flip it, will I get more aero, and hence, faster?
06-27-13, 07:04 PM
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Mine is parallel to the top tube, if I were to flip it, it would point up, making me less aero and slower.
06-27-13, 07:11 PM
#4
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The correct angle and length is the one that places the bars where you want or need them.
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Last edited by bigfred; 06-27-13 at 08:55 PM.
06-27-13, 07:37 PM
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As Fred correctly stated. To give an example OP. Contrast two different frame geometries OP...a Tarmac vs. Roubalx. A Roubaix on average size to size has a 20mm taller head tube than a Tarmac. A rider may start out on a Tarmac being a bit out of shape with a flat stem angle and find his neck and back hurts. He places a riser stem on the Tarmac which basically replicates the position had he bought a Roubaix fitted with flat stem. Two different frames, two stem angles and the same position on both bike. That said, most prefer the aesthetic of a flat stem...a throw back to road bikes of years past and in general a lower front end on a bike looks sleeker. But make no mistake. Not everybody can ride a slammed race geometry comfortably. There is no right or wrong when it comes to stem angle but most of us have our preference.
PS: Pros who are extraordinary...want to generally ride the smallest aka shortest frames with slammed flat or negative angle stems (long) because they want be as aero as possible. Recreational riders...generally find this position too aggressive but not necessarily amateur racers.
PS: Pros who are extraordinary...want to generally ride the smallest aka shortest frames with slammed flat or negative angle stems (long) because they want be as aero as possible. Recreational riders...generally find this position too aggressive but not necessarily amateur racers.
Last edited by Campag4life; 06-27-13 at 07:46 PM.
06-27-13, 08:13 PM
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Of course, Fred is going to give a Fred answer. The only correct answer is parallel to the ground. Sheesh.
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06-27-13, 08:15 PM
#7
SuperGimp
On compact geo frames, I think -17 looks a bit off... -10 tends to look visually more appealing. On a more standard frame -17 is the way to go. Comfort be damned!
06-27-13, 08:55 PM
#8
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OP, you could just go to the "Hot or Not" thread and take a look there. I'm sure they're all set up correctly.
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06-27-13, 08:58 PM
#9
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Hey now. Depending upon your definition or which version of "Fred" we're talking about, Fred's might actually have it right more oftern than not.
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06-28-13, 06:01 AM
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^ of course your original answer was correct. However, it's completely contrary to 41 style orthodoxy
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06-28-13, 10:24 AM
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06-28-13, 12:52 PM
#12
commu*ist spy
if I switch from a -5 deg 110 to a -17 deg stem, do I need to get the 100 mm due to the slight stretching?
ok maybe not https://www.habcycles.com/stemfit.jpg
I actually need to get lower, because my 58 frame is 180 mm head tube rather than 160.
ok maybe not https://www.habcycles.com/stemfit.jpg
I actually need to get lower, because my 58 frame is 180 mm head tube rather than 160.
Last edited by spectastic; 06-28-13 at 01:00 PM.
06-28-13, 01:11 PM
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if I switch from a -5 deg 110 to a -17 deg stem, do I need to get the 100 mm due to the slight stretching?
ok maybe not https://www.habcycles.com/stemfit.jpg
I actually need to get lower, because my 58 frame is 180 mm head tube rather than 160.
ok maybe not https://www.habcycles.com/stemfit.jpg
I actually need to get lower, because my 58 frame is 180 mm head tube rather than 160.
06-28-13, 01:22 PM
#14
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The correct stem angle (along with length) is the one that puts the hbar where it needs to be. But this is the 41 so flip and slam and bare it...
06-28-13, 10:01 PM
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Exactly. Forty one, shmorty one. And I'm one of those +17'ers who ride it with pride! I'm still pretty strong, but alas, age has not been particularly kind when it comes to my neck and back, so it's high head tubes and risers for me these days. A small sacrifice in the name of comfort I say.
06-28-13, 10:15 PM
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no, if it compromises your fit then messing with it is useless, function over style. I know blasphemer. Bite me.
also, you will gain very little to no speed
also, you will gain very little to no speed
06-29-13, 07:14 AM
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Exactly. Forty one, shmorty one. And I'm one of those +17'ers who ride it with pride! I'm still pretty strong, but alas, age has not been particularly kind when it comes to my neck and back, so it's high head tubes and risers for me these days. A small sacrifice in the name of comfort I say.
06-29-13, 07:18 AM
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Actually, an inflexible rider will be slower on a slammed bike. This is my experience. And all of us deal with our flexibility at some level. Very few can ride in a pro's position for a hundred miles like they can and do it again the next day. This includes all the guys that never use their drops because they are too low for their flexibility. Part of what makes a pro is their ability to cheat the wind and ride aero.
06-30-13, 08:57 PM
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Actually, an inflexible rider will be slower on a slammed bike. This is my experience. And all of us deal with our flexibility at some level. Very few can ride in a pro's position for a hundred miles like they can and do it again the next day. This includes all the guys that never use their drops because they are too low for their flexibility. Part of what makes a pro is their ability to cheat the wind and ride aero.
This is in effect, what I was saying, though with 1/8th of the elegance. I agree sir
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