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UMMMM how to you do this with Downtube shifters? HAHA but seriously, shifting used to take a bit more thought, planning, and skill.... (where's the emoticon witht he stirring canoe paddle?) And yes, I am still running downtube shifters....
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Originally Posted by hockeyref
(Post 15859973)
UMMMM how to you do this with Downtube shifters? HAHA but seriously, shifting used to take a bit more thought, planning, and skill.... (where's the emoticon witht he stirring canoe paddle?) And yes, I am still running downtube shifters....
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I do this more and more, shift down in the front and up twice in the rear in one motion and I'm in the perfect gear right between two that don't quite fit. Typically for me heading up a small incline when staying in third in the front and just shifting it down is too much.
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Originally Posted by hockeyref
(Post 15859973)
UMMMM how to you do this with Downtube shifters? HAHA but seriously, shifting used to take a bit more thought, planning, and skill.... (where's the emoticon witht he stirring canoe paddle?) And yes, I am still running downtube shifters....
And bang off upshifts in sprints with are knees. And we walked 3 miles uphill through the snow to school. |
Originally Posted by blarnie
(Post 15858834)
Crosschaining is nonexsistent. Shift at will and enjoy.
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Originally Posted by generalkdi
(Post 15856721)
Best not to do it at the exact same time, I had a couple chain drops using this, so now I space it by like half a second.
Though I still (sometimes) hammer the double-change at the same time and risk a chain drop - which only happens about one time in 10. |
Originally Posted by hockeyref
(Post 15859973)
UMMMM how to you do this with Downtube shifters? HAHA but seriously, shifting used to take a bit more thought, planning, and skill.... (where's the emoticon witht he stirring canoe paddle?) And yes, I am still running downtube shifters....
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Originally Posted by dpeters11
(Post 15860266)
I wouldn't say that. Particularly on a triple, I'd avoid the extremes, especially small/small. Inefficient, noisy and much more chain wear.
Perhaps, it should be stated that in order to be elegant, you have to break some eggshells. It's not like the rider in question will always be in a less than preferred gear selection. I worry less about being inefficient, noisy or chain wear than what breakfast is being served in the Fukishima cafeteria. I try to focus on the fun of riding my bike as hard as I can on any given day. I hope everyone does. But, whatever floats a boat. For the record, I've been obnoxious (not dangerous) during a ride to see where a person's humor lies. I won't push it though. Just a little test. Riding a bike for the last thirty plus years like I was 12. |
Originally Posted by blarnie
(Post 15858834)
Crosschaining is nonexsistent. Shift at will and enjoy.
shifting under a load crosschained might get you a broken chain. |
I feel compelled to jump in on this subject.
I logged 5K road miles last year on a triple/8speed cassette. (This was on a 31lb mtb with knobby tires for what its worth.) Front ring changes were no big deal. Two rear changes at most were necessary to accomodate a drop in the front. On occasion I'd change front/rear at the same time, no issue, but I was aware that there could be issues. All was good and right with the world - except I was logging 5K miles on a mtb with knobbies. This year I switched to road bike with 50/34 and 10 spd 12-28. HOLY CR@P! Changing front rings (big to small) is such a huge change!!! No biggie I thought - I'll just bring back the old double shift!!! Holy CR@P!!!! I still need an extra rear shift to accomodate the front change - but I can only get 2 out of my 105 shifter!!!!! So I guess I need the double-double shift. Not to mention the fact that with the 10 spd rear I need 3-4 up shift just to crest a hill. Personally, I really dont like the compact gearing, nor the 10 speed rear. I have to plan too far in advance to go from 50-34 because the old simultaneous front/rear shift is just not enough to cover the difference in front to rear. I've got about 1,500 on the new ride and I'm going to have to ditch the 34 in favor of something bigger..... |
Originally Posted by hockeyref
(Post 15859973)
UMMMM how to you do this with Downtube shifters? HAHA but seriously, shifting used to take a bit more thought, planning, and skill.... (where's the emoticon witht he stirring canoe paddle?) And yes, I am still running downtube shifters....
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Originally Posted by caloso
(Post 15856841)
Which is why 10-speed Campy is awesome. I can hit both thumb buttons and instantly dump the chain ring and 3 cogs.
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
(Post 15860203)
And we walked 3 miles uphill through the snow to school.
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
(Post 15856782)
only difference is that the most common double setup is a 13 tooth jump, while the most common compact setups are 16 tooth jumps, which make the effect a bit more pronounced.
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Originally Posted by bgrider
(Post 15862082)
I feel compelled to jump in on this subject.
I logged 5K road miles last year on a triple/8speed cassette. (This was on a 31lb mtb with knobby tires for what its worth.) Front ring changes were no big deal. Two rear changes at most were necessary to accomodate a drop in the front. On occasion I'd change front/rear at the same time, no issue, but I was aware that there could be issues. All was good and right with the world - except I was logging 5K miles on a mtb with knobbies. This year I switched to road bike with 50/34 and 10 spd 12-28. HOLY CR@P! Changing front rings (big to small) is such a huge change!!! No biggie I thought - I'll just bring back the old double shift!!! Holy CR@P!!!! I still need an extra rear shift to accomodate the front change - but I can only get 2 out of my 105 shifter!!!!! So I guess I need the double-double shift. Not to mention the fact that with the 10 spd rear I need 3-4 up shift just to crest a hill. Personally, I really dont like the compact gearing, nor the 10 speed rear. I have to plan too far in advance to go from 50-34 because the old simultaneous front/rear shift is just not enough to cover the difference in front to rear. I've got about 1,500 on the new ride and I'm going to have to ditch the 34 in favor of something bigger..... FYI some of the older STIs did switch 3 at a time. Dunno about SRAM. The Campy shifters do a fantastic job of this, switching 3 is quick and easy. |
Originally Posted by bikebreak
(Post 15863869)
I ride a triple and have the same reaction whenever I rent or test ride a compact double. I just try to stay in 50 most of the time unless the hill is steep, then shift well in advance to small small combo. Lots of cross chaining.
FYI some of the older STIs did switch 3 at a time. Dunno about SRAM. The Campy shifters do a fantastic job of this, switching 3 is quick and easy. Short and cheap solution may be a bigger small chainring. Expensive solution is Campy..... |
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