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Originally Posted by valygrl
(Post 15879052)
Battery below the down tube? drill my super light frame? Sigh. I don't think I can do it! |
Originally Posted by valygrl
(Post 15879052)
So back on topic, I took my bike to my shop, and they are kind of stumped as to where to put the battery on my bike. I was thinking I could get the seatpost battery, but there is nowhere for the wire to get out, and the spot below/between the two bottles on the outside of the frame is too small, because my frame is so small, and I can't move a cage up, for the same reason.
Battery below the down tube? drill my super light frame? Sigh. I don't think I can do it! It will increase the space below the bottle cage on the seat-tube or the down-tube. |
Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
(Post 15879109)
My question about electric shifting is how long Di2 will continue to have conventional shift levers? First generation of Di2, they clearly wanted to make the interface like a mechanical group for consumer acceptance and familiarity.
But there's no inherent reason that you need to shift by rotating a lever. It would appear that you could make a lighter, simpler to use group by eliminating the shifting levers all together, and just going to buttons, like the auxillary shift points they already have. I think the interface of Di2 can be improved a lot, once designers are freed from needing to make it mimic mechanical groups. |
Originally Posted by dalava
(Post 15879634)
You may try this bottle cage re-locator thingy from Shimano (http://www.competitivecyclist.com/pr...9-001b2166c2c0).
It will increase the space below the bottle cage on the seat-tube or the down-tube. |
Originally Posted by valygrl
(Post 15880017)
Yeah thanks for the thought, but on my 47cm frame there is just barely room for the bottles in their current low positions. And I do a lot of long rides, so short bottles is not a good option. suckstobeshort.
http://www.backcountry.com/images/it...ARU0008/RD.jpg You don't have to have clearance above the bottle to pull out the bottle; it comes out sideways. Lots of people use these on tandems where the lateral tube limits space. There are also cheaper side mounted carriers out there, but the Arundel one is nice. |
Maybe you can use one of those Shimano bottle cage re-locaters plus a bottle cage that allows side entry.
edit: great minds think alike. |
Originally Posted by valygrl
(Post 15880017)
Yeah thanks for the thought, but on my 47cm frame there is just barely room for the bottles in their current low positions. And I do a lot of long rides, so short bottles is not a good option. suckstobeshort.
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I have both the DA and Ultegra 10-speed versions. I don't "hate" anything about either, but I'm not crazy about:
- lack of obvious "click" when you press a button - not great in the winter when wearing thick gloves. - I have the original software, so I can't shift multiple cogs by holding the lever. I do a lot of "shift-shift-shift-shift-" stuff - Wish I could go to a 30-tooth cog on the rear - Wiring is pretty messy on bikes not designed for it |
Thanks JimF, that is interesting. I heard they improved the glove-operation with the next generation, I might have to go look at it.
Arundel side-loader - worth checking out. I'm stalled out in my decision making process, I think it's so expensive and there are so many barriers to a good clean install that I might just re-cable the current mechanical group and see if I can live with it for few years, and then get an internally routed frame. Haven't decided 100% yet though. |
Originally Posted by JimF22003
(Post 15882758)
- I have the original software, so I can't shift multiple cogs by holding the lever. I do a lot of "shift-shift-shift-shift-" stuff
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^^ I think you can get a software/firmware update if you are on e-tube (Ultegra 6870 or DA9070) but not on the original Di2 7970.
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Originally Posted by Nachoman
(Post 15884267)
Is the software upgradable? I'm also on the original Di2 and wouldn't mind being able to up shift multiple cogs at a time.
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Like:
-My chain never rubs, even when cross-chained. -Zero tuning necessary as there are no cables to get stretched and need any real adjustment. -Quiet and smooth. -Front cog shifting is pretty much bullet-proof, even while climbing. I've never had a chain derailment or any problems so far (2500 miles). -Shifting two or three gears up/down is as easy as hitting the button quickly and my bike is in the proper gear. -Battery life has not been an issue. I charge my battery once every 3 months or so and have never gotten stuck on the road with a dead battery. Hate: -Cost |
Originally Posted by JimF22003
(Post 15882758)
I have both the DA and Ultegra 10-speed versions. I don't "hate" anything about either, but I'm not crazy about:
- Wish I could go to a 30-tooth cog on the rear |
Originally Posted by gc3
(Post 15884380)
Us 7970 owners are definitely SOL in this regard. So, I'm like a kid in the candy store as the UPS should start delivering my 9070 pieces today...
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BTW, Pro-tip....I got my 9070 kit from Performance bike on Fathers day, it was something like 42% off. $1800*. It included shifters, derailleurs, 6 cables, battery, junction boxes, chargers, and brake cables/housings, 11sp cassette and chain. I kept my old crank and brakes.
If you keep your eyes peeled maybe you'll find a similar deal. *Technically it was "on sale" at $2200 + 30% store credit as their fathers day sale was "extra 20% performance points". With the $660 store credit I had, I bought the cassette, chain, and still had $400 left or so. Right now it's 12% off and you'll get $220 in store credit. |
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