Any tips for riding with a worn chainring?
08-03-13, 01:38 PM
#1
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Any tips for riding with a worn chainring?
So I replaced my chain and cassette about 10 days ago, and after going out for a couple rides realized that my middle chainring (road triple) was worn enough that the chain was skipping when I had to put a lot of pressure on it -- starting from a stop, climbing. Also was having issues with it trying to ramp up onto the big ring on its own.
Ordered the right ring online last Monday - unfortunately it didn't ship out until Wed and isn't here yet.
And I'm riding in a sprint tri tomorrow.
No shops within 50 miles had a ring in stock - not surprised.
So besides avoiding the middle ring as much as possible, and using it only on the flats or slight inclines as needed - any other tips to get through the race with minimal issues?
Ordered the right ring online last Monday - unfortunately it didn't ship out until Wed and isn't here yet.
And I'm riding in a sprint tri tomorrow.
No shops within 50 miles had a ring in stock - not surprised.
So besides avoiding the middle ring as much as possible, and using it only on the flats or slight inclines as needed - any other tips to get through the race with minimal issues?
08-03-13, 02:21 PM
#2
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Avoid it completely if you can. Unless you have really steep hills, stay in the big ring the entire time. 85-95 is a good tt cadence so that shouldn't be too difficult for a sprint. The problem with chain skip is you could end up with a broken chain, a jammed chain, or breaking off the d/r hanger.
08-03-13, 03:10 PM
#3
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If you're not using the small ring, meaning you don't need to shift from the small ring to the middle ring, you can install the chainring backwards. The chainring is worn at the front of the teeth, meaning the leading edge, where the chainring pulls the chain. By reversing the chainring you utilize the unutilized trailing edge of the chainring.
It's not ideal - the ramps and pins aren't right, for example, for shifting, but if you're not shifting up to the chainring it should be better under load.
Obviously the best thing is to replace it but with a ride tomorrow reversing its direction is about the only thing you can do.
In the old days, when chainrings were symmetrical, with no ramps and such, people could reverse their chainrings without much problem.
Keep in mind that the chainring bolts will stick out to the inside of the middle ring, because the holes aren't countersunk. It'll basically prohibit the use of the small ring.
Hope this helps and good luck in the tri tomorrow.
It's not ideal - the ramps and pins aren't right, for example, for shifting, but if you're not shifting up to the chainring it should be better under load.
Obviously the best thing is to replace it but with a ride tomorrow reversing its direction is about the only thing you can do.
In the old days, when chainrings were symmetrical, with no ramps and such, people could reverse their chainrings without much problem.
Keep in mind that the chainring bolts will stick out to the inside of the middle ring, because the holes aren't countersunk. It'll basically prohibit the use of the small ring.
Hope this helps and good luck in the tri tomorrow.
08-03-13, 03:21 PM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
If you're not using the small ring, meaning you don't need to shift from the small ring to the middle ring, you can install the chainring backwards. The chainring is worn at the front of the teeth, meaning the leading edge, where the chainring pulls the chain. By reversing the chainring you utilize the unutilized trailing edge of the chainring.
It's not ideal - the ramps and pins aren't right, for example, for shifting, but if you're not shifting up to the chainring it should be better under load.
Obviously the best thing is to replace it but with a ride tomorrow reversing its direction is about the only thing you can do.
In the old days, when chainrings were symmetrical, with no ramps and such, people could reverse their chainrings without much problem.
Keep in mind that the chainring bolts will stick out to the inside of the middle ring, because the holes aren't countersunk. It'll basically prohibit the use of the small ring.
Hope this helps and good luck in the tri tomorrow.
It's not ideal - the ramps and pins aren't right, for example, for shifting, but if you're not shifting up to the chainring it should be better under load.
Obviously the best thing is to replace it but with a ride tomorrow reversing its direction is about the only thing you can do.
In the old days, when chainrings were symmetrical, with no ramps and such, people could reverse their chainrings without much problem.
Keep in mind that the chainring bolts will stick out to the inside of the middle ring, because the holes aren't countersunk. It'll basically prohibit the use of the small ring.
Hope this helps and good luck in the tri tomorrow.
So if I did this - I leave the small ring off completely?
And - will I still be able to shift into the big ring with reasonable reliability?
I can do the ride with the middle and big ring only - not a problem there.
Thanks for the advice.
08-03-13, 03:28 PM
#5
Senior Member
I'd keep it on to act as a chain catcher - no need to adjust the derailleur etc. Also removing the small ring can be tricky, the outer two should be easy.
08-03-13, 03:42 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
As long as I can use the middle and big rings ok, I'll be great.
Thanks CDR
08-03-13, 06:16 PM
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Put the old chain and cassette back on, change to the new ones when the new chainring arrives.
08-03-13, 07:10 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the suggestion - I'd thought about it yesterday but discarded the idea hoping my chainring would arrive today.
Carpe - will keep your trick in mind in case I need it in the future.
Thanks.
Last edited by billyymc; 08-03-13 at 08:20 PM.
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