robbyville

Hi all,

I know I've seen it mentioned before, but have any of you had success with fixing the little clicks or creaks that seem to always come along with press fit BB's? I have a Trek with BB90. it's not bad and maybe it's because my drive train is so darn quiet now that I really notice little clicks from the BB. I've pressed the bearings in (Shimano kit, ceramic bearings) using the proper tool but I admit I get a little scared because it seems like when pressing in I am going way too hard and worry about cracking the shell.

I've heard that some people use an adhesive of some type on the contact surfaces of BB and shell? If so please let me know if this has worked for you.

thanks,

Nagrom_

I used Loctite 609 "Press Fit Retaining Compound" on my CAAD10's bottom bracket about 3.5k miles ago when it was built up. I've never heard a creak from the bike, heavy sprinting and climbing mountains included.

topflightpro

I've used Loctite - cannot remember the exact number, but it is green - on multiple BB30 set ups with great results. 10s of thousands of miles without creaks.

robbyville

Thanks so much, how much did you guys use and where? Any tips?

on the path

Is there another effective solution, Loctite or other product, that does NOT require that heat be applied for removal?

Gramercy

Wait, I may be relatively new here, but there's a way to get rid of the clicking that happens with every revolution of the pedals? I've noticed it only happens in certaing gears; I thought chain lube would get rid of that noise to some extent.

primov8

The Loctite recommended (i.e. 609) is a thread retaining compound and not a thread locking compound such as the Loctite used for automotive grade bolts.

I've already removed the pf30 bb on my Ridley several times and never had to apply heat whatsoever. A couple strikes on the park tool bbt30.3 and the bb cups simply popped out. What you'll notice after removal on both the bb shell and pf cups are flake-like residue that easily cleans off with rubbing alcohol.

on the path

I want to believe you. I posted after I read the spec sheet for Loctite 609. Seems 250 degrees C is pretty hot:

"For Disassembly

1. Apply localized heat to the assembly to approximately 250°C. Disassemble while hot."

rpenmanparker 

I've used regular Loctite (medium?) on threaded bottom bracket cups many times. Unscrewing is no problem. Removing a press fit BB could be a bit different.

primov8

That spec sheet also states to clean the loctite with a wire brush; I doubt anyone with a cf bb shell would even consider using heat and a wire brush to clean the bb area.

Loctite 609, 680 are popular choices for pressfit bb cups; I've used both on my Ridley and De Rosa and never had to apply heat. With the right tools, the cups simply pop right out. Easily removed, easily cleaned.

Here's a pic I took of my Ridley's bb shell. I recently removed the pf30 cups because I'm rewiring the EPS and will be installing a Wheels Mfg-Enduro AC pf30 bb. The white residue you see is whats left of the loctite.

robbyville

Excellent thanks again.

so when you guys do this do you simply apply a thin layer on the bb cups and press the bearings normally, or do you put the film on the contact surface of the bearing and then wipe away excess after pressing? I'm just worried about getting lock tire into the wrong spaces

Bob Dopolina 

Yeah, that can be pretty painful and it leaves a mark.

robbyville

whoops, silly mobile device (and author)

At any rate, let me know best tips to get this done safely!

99Klein 

On my CAAD the noise seems fixed with a bit of grease on the wheels mfg adapters. I'm running a 105 crankset with the adapters but never have had any frame/bearing noise. Greasing the adapters lasts about 1000 miles.

Campag4life

Please don't conflate a threaded fastener with a press fit...maybe you aren't but...the formula of Loctite suggested for each application is very different.

OP...you won't need heat with green Loctite...there are a no. of variations what will work fine. Serviceable aka green Loctite spec'ed for bearings pressed into bores is formulated to have poor shear adhesion. Translation? A simple knock with any kind of punch implement on the inside of the bearing across the BB will pop the bearings out. This is by design. Whole intent of Loctite in this application is to negate creep of the bearing within the press bore. That's all it does and is very effective and easy to service. FWIW the whole industry is moving toward BB30...all the top companies are slowly eliminating threaded outboard bearing BB's.

Campag4life

If your bearings are properly bonded to the frame with serviceable green Loctite you should not have to grease the adapters as frequently as you do.
Wheel Mfg. adapters are by design natural isolators of noise because they are made from relatively hard Delrin. What you need to do is increase the preload on your crank at installation. This keeps the inner race of the bearing from vibrating against the captured balls.

kleng

If the bb is so hard to pressfit into the frame, I don't think the noises can be alleviated by using locktite, it actually sounds like a bearing or crank arm spindle issue, unless their are some alignment issues in the BB facings causing an unequal fitting.

I had a noise on every pedal stroke that I was sure came from my pressfit BB, but it turned to out to be my saddle post in the frame, so I just greased it up with carbon prep paste and didn't have to do anything to the bb.

Check the other sources of noise first, especially if you believe it occurs under load.

robbyville

Thanks again guys. I've definitely eliminated other sources and I'm not worried about getting the bearings out. Now that I know what product to use I'm really now looking for advice or best practices on how to install the bearings and press them in without messing up the process.

id appreciate any tips!

on the path

Use proper tools. It's almost foolproof with the right tools. Sure, there is a guy on youtube pounding bearings in with a 2x4. Do you really want to go there?

Campag4life

Robby...you don't have to purchase the Park bearing installation tool...but it is a nice tool to own. You can make your own with a large threaded bolt.
If you poke around the web you should be able to find pictures. Go to Park's website for general BB30 installation procedure.
Press one bearing in at a time...if you use a threaded bolt. Even a large C clamp works nicely with two blocks of wood. Same basic procedure as pressing in a headset cup only easier because of the reduced press of a BB30 bearing. Make sure the bearing is absolutely square to the BB bore. Very easy. As discussed green loctited bearings pop right out with a staccato hammer punch blow. Only remove the bearings for replacement...if you pop yours out to include Loctite, replace them...because punching the bearing out will degrade the bearing..not with certainty but bearings are cheap. There is a thread recently here that talks about cheap ABEC-5 BB30 bearings.

qcpmsame 

Here is a link to Cannondale's tech article on installing a press fit BB30 and the Loctite product they recommend. https://media.cannondale.com/media/ma...ctions_web.pdf

Bill

primov8

+1.

I built my pressfit tool, spent about $6.
- 5/8in. threaded rod
- (2) 5/8 nuts
- (2) fender washers
The Park Tool bbt30.3 includes the bearing bushings and that is used to guide and press the bearings into the bb shell.

99Klein 

I'll give this a try. Thanks!

robbyville

Excellent, I will try to get this done today. Since I operate a resort with a Mtn Bike Park I have a full service shop with press tool so I'm good there. Just needed the right direction. We're operating the park on weekends only right now so no shop staff and I like to do my own work (had a blast installing the DI2).

Bummer about having to replace the current bearings though, quite new and ceramic. Oh well

robbyville

Thanks Bill,

just read the doc, looks easy enough although my BB is the Trek variety so simply two loose cartridge bearings that press into the formed cups in the bb shell, still simple enough if I put the locktite on the bearing/frame contact surface.