ethan.g75

Ok, so i need to replace my ritchey wcs carbon seatpost because i need 0 offset. I am between a zipp sc sl 0 offset, or easton ec70 0 offset. the deal is that easton is carbon and 225grams (yes i know, quite heavy, especially compared to my ritchey!!) and the zipp is aluminum at 220grams, but which is king? anyone prefer one or the other? I kind of like the zipp, but I have never ridden any aluminum road post other than one thompson masterpiece, which is probably quite a better feel than this zipp post. I really dont care about the 5 gram difference.
thanks

bianchi10

WCS carbon UD zero offset (mine is 180g cut) Why dont you stick with Ritchey? What kind of stem and bars do you have? Not everyone cares about this, but I like all mine to match brands, so if you have a Ritchey cockpit, then I wouldn't go with any other brand but that.

The only other deciding factor for me, would be which is lighter. you aren't going to notice any difference in performance. Vibration dampening is really minimal between posts.

marqueemoon

What I don't get is why you "need" a zero setback post. Seems to be an aesthetic choice in most cases if we're talking about road bikes not tri or TT bikes.

Where the post clamps the rails is going to effect how/where the saddle flexes and thus how it feels, all other things being equal. So, if a fitter scooted your saddle forward 8mm and now you "need" a straight post you might have to mess with your saddle angle all over again and get used to the difference when you swap posts.

ethan.g75

i cant find a nice way of saying this, but, just go, please.

jkuper

This measurement is also primarily a function of your femur length, as well as your inseam.
Tall riders and riders with long femurs benefit from the additional leverage they derive from a
setback seatpost. Short riders and riders with medium-to-small femurs benefit from a non setback
post as it allows them harness the power of their hamstrings and glutes

jkuper

marqueemoon

Well you don't seem to be denying my assessment of the situation.

So, you should probably pick the post that looks better to you.

ethan.g75

I am in the same boat with you, i would love for my cockpit to match, i had worked all summer in the bike shop to achieve that, but ended up buying a stages. Unfortunately, the problem with the ritchey is, i hate to say it, being 15 and a freshman in highschool means during the school year, i have like no source of cash flow. Nothing compared to what i get in the summer, and the ritchey one bolt offsets are super expensive on ebay. I also really like how zipp stems look, and I would buy a zipp stem+bars soon after because i also love the shape of those bars. This way you can't tell me my bars are pointed at my cassette !!

bianchi10

I would go the zipp route then, because I like the shape of the zipp bars better than the easton. (If it were me)

ethan.g75

Good lord, you wont give up. I was trying to avoid having to get into a pissing match with you on bike fit knowledge, but, you asked for it. My saddle is slammed quite far forward, just a bit past the limit. I do not want a new post because i am afraid of the functionality of said equipment (although especially on selle carbon railed saddles, having them clamped so far back does create a **** ton of flex and bounce when riding on the nose), but also to achieve an even better fit on the bike, something a growing boy constantly must adjust.
Also, who gave you a degree in bike fitting?

ethan.g75

Great to get the support of another b'mor-ean!

marqueemoon

I hold no degrees in bike fitting, but thanks for clarifying what you're looking to do.

It makes sense in the context of the flex and concern about the carbon rails (another subject dear to my heart).

I still generally don't equate "slammed forward" with "better fit", but it's your body and your bike.

ethan.g75

well, of course "slammed forward" on a setback looks perfect on a zero setback...

rpenmanparker 

Not to start another skirmish with OP, but when you have your saddle slammed forward on a normal road bike and still need more, should you not question other aspects of the bike fit. One wonders whether you really need to be so far forward due to a missized frame, a mistaken desire for improper positioning relative to the crank, or the need to accommodate too long a top tube and/or stem. Naturally a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do, but it would be very helpful to you (and to us) to understand what is the underlying cause of the problem.

As far as a post recommendation is concerned, you can't do better than the Thomson Masterpiece, and it can be found heavily discounted on ebay. I just bought one to substitute for a discontinued 150g carbon post that I needed another one of, although I chose the set back model. As close in weight as I could get. Great post and superb adjustment.

Siu Blue Wind

Rudeness will not be tolerated when others are trying to help. If someone is wrong, a polite correction can do wonders.

Thread closed.